Gary, I completely agree with your comment. Besides the fact of what I 'need' to know. I know the specs of the blank. It's more of what I 'want' to know, or curious as to how else it could be used. I like Steve's idea for crankbaits, and it would be good for light top water which I'm starting to lean towards.
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I built a casting rod on this blank back in '08 or so, as it was one of my first builds its not that great.... The guides are Hardloy's, size 12 down to 6. I want to switch them out to minimas, and possibly do a spiral wrap if I make it into a casting rod again. The 7" rear cork and reel seat creak when I cast and flex the rod on a snag. Oh and the guides dont have enough epoxy build on t
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Double check static placement and ended up moving the runners and 2nd choker guides up a little under an inch each. So it's good to go!
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I have 3 runners right now spaced about 4" from each other, 12ish" total. If I do 4 runners at 3" it will still be 12ish" total, so that checks out so far. Tom, I knew someone was going to mention the weight, but not the added whippy factor. So that's a good point. From what I'm getting I'm good with 3 runners. I will double check my static placement and that should give
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I have my guide layout setup for a PacBay TII 600, and I'm wondering if I should try to fit in another running guide. The reason is that the rod is quite whippy, and I have read that more running guides can help control the line and make for a smoother/controlled cast (just a basic statement). As of now, my layout consists of size 3 minimas for running guides, and size 12 and 6 high frame mini
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Jon, I couldn't agree with you more! Tom has been an asset to this forum and it's one of the reasons I stay here and go no where else. We all enjoy rod building and this is an amazing site to get our noggin going!
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I've been using Inviz X.... Trying a different brand is one of the things I'm going to try.
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I can't thank everyone enough for their input. There is enough information given that I can test different knots and see what I prefer the most. Thank you everyone for your input!
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Wow, you can tell rod builders sweat the small details! I will look at the salt strong video after work and try the FG knot again. Trout fishing is about to get hot here in Kansas City, and now that the Royals won the World Series in an epic fashion, I can get back to focusing on my fishing! Thanks everyone!
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Thanks for all the input! I moisten the line with my saliva so that's not the problem I don't think. I've tried the FG knot but I can't get it :( I will play around with the other knots and do some testing. I will be using size 4 minima guides, so that could be the next issue lol.
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I'm using a double uni knot, with my braid being 10lb and leader being 4-6lb(usually 4-8ft long). Every time I get snagged and have to snap the line, it breaks at the uni knot. I would like to get some ideas on how I could get the line to break at the bait so I don't have to put on a new leader every break off. It happened 4 times this morning within an hour and got frustrating...
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What about Kansas City? I'm out of Olathe, which is 20 minutes away from KC. A club would be awesome but if there are local builders it would be great to get in touch with them. I still have a lot to learn at the age of 26.
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Happy birthday, I hope it's a good one!
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Michael that's a really good point, when I did masking tape it was at least 1/4", if not closer to 3/8" thick. I didn't glue it in place so that's probably where/when I got the spongy feel. Epoxy would change that, so you're definitely right!
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I haven't a tried the poly arbors but I think I might after reading this thread. I have mounted with masking tape but I was afraid it would spongy and I knew it wouldn't be as sensitive. I'm all for graphite arbors, I have used the two piece models and I just ordered some full 3-7/8" sized ones. Looking forward to see how they are!
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If I remember correctly, builders would recoat every so often(I could be completely wrong). But if this is the case, how often would that be?
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How many coats of the U-40 do you guys usually put on the cork? I clean my cork an the whole rod every winter, is that kinda the same concept?
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Hopefully I copy and pasted correctly, don't think I did though..... The two pictures are 101 and 102 under grips and handle section of photo page.
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When I cast with spinning reels I have the line pinned against the reel seat/fore grip/winding check, depending on what the rod is built with. Honestly, if you think about it: the tapered winding check I have on the 6'MH(the one I'm having issues with) might be the issue. I have other rods that don't have fore grips which I can cast with no issue. I'm not offended one bit about the casting tec
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I have thought about my casting technique, too. So this tells me I should look more into that as well, it's good input. You know how we can get, "there's no way it's me it's gotta be the damn rod!" Lol.
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Haven't got to research it much today but I should have a verdict tomorrow. The st croix is a light action, I will be using 10lb braid at the heaviest with it. I mentioned the 6' MH because I need to fix the issue I have with it, and so I can explain the problem I don't want to have with the st croix. I didn't cut the seat down too much, it works great. The issue is I'm holding the line again
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I'm having an issues with what the best foregrip would be for a 6'1" SC I I Light blank. It's going to end up being a basic crappie rod, throwing jigs with occasional slip floats. I'm doing a split grip with a 16mm standard Fuji reel seat. The seat will be down-locking, with it being cut down to fit the reel with only a few twist of the nut. Now why I'm getting frustrated: Awhile back som
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The SP600 looks like it would work great, and I found it at getbitoutdoors.com. What's frustrating though is I can't find their shipping rates, and I'm looking to buy a decent amount of stuff. I know mudhole has free shipping over $150. I can get a PAC Bay T2 blank that has the same specs for a few more bucks. So I'm leaning towards that right now. And I haven't emailed get bit yet
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Jay, when I spool up the reels for this I will give it a shot, no reason why to not give it a try!
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At times there are lay downs and a "little" bit of standing timber but not really. Are you using fireline? Honest truth why I have that setup is because is what I'm accustom to, and I haven't had any problems with casting distance or anything.
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I'm wanting to locate a 4'6" UL, slow action, graphite blank. I wouldn't be against fiberglass, I just want it to be $20 or under. I will be using 4lb fluoro, and mainly in-line spinners. I have found some 5' models but with it being slow action, I'm afraid cutting the back 6" off might effect the action? Any ideas would be great, this site is always a big help!
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I'm looking to use these guides for a 5'6" L, and a 6'1" L blank. I will be using 10lb braid to a 4lb fluoro leader(possibly 15lb braid to 6lb leader for the 6'1" blank), with a standard bobber stop. I will be throwing 1/32-1/8oz jigs. Reels I'm using will be either a 500, 1000, or 1500 size. I haven't decided which reels I will use quite yet. My question is what size/style shou
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Is this your very first build? If it is I personally would suggest looking at Mudhole's CRB blanks/kits. When it comes to components, everyone will be willing to give you suggestions, but you will find more out by researching the forum and the library on this site.
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I agree with Garry. You said you plan on doing a CRB kit, which would be my first and utmost suggestion for a first time builder. After your first build, and each one thereafter, you will see things you could have done differently/better. So instead of spending extra money, I would buy a basic kit and learn how the trade works hands on. Hopefully others can conquer with me on this!
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Bill has a very valid point. In my line of work, we hire plumbers to put toilets in and build them. We were once quoted $300 to put a toilet together and set it. Normally this runs us about $100. The guy was very busy, so he was able to upcharge and be okay when we told him no. Needless to say we did the work ourselves!
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