Ok, I was not aware that I could be packing this type of thread too tightly, and that may be the answer here after all. I am going to test this on a blank , that's been previously coated white, or as you suggest I'll try easing the tension when wrapping this stuff , which, if it works would be way easier than pre-coating the blank. At the same time I'm looking for a ncp or nylon thread that ma
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Believe me, it was packed tightly, using a special tool to pack each pass. The tension was tight on the thread sledding device, and I burnished this well, mindful that it was an underwrap. In addition I have NEVER had problems using NCP as an underwarp, ...ever. After further review, I believe there may be something inherently wrong with this particular spool that I have. It might have been th
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....It is Polyneon thread, and I packed the thread very tight, as it is an underwrap. Burnished it as well. I t doesn't appear to be thread separation , but is definitely "bleeding" irregularly in several spots. I guess I could have tested it before hand, but I think the best advice given here, would be to paint the blank white, where this type of light colored thread is going to be u
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sorry didn't complete the message.....anyhow this madeira thread was a sea foam color, slightly metallic. I had never used this stuff before, and did apply CP to make sure it wouldn't fade or darken. But it made a black bleeding thru marks in random areas on the wrap. It is very noticeable, and will require a re-wrap or completely new effort all the way around. Makes me sick, and ruined a nice
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I have a serious bleed through problem using madeira thread, on a black eglass blank, ruined the butt wrap............
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I am looking for some balsa wood veneer with adhesive backing, something like the abalone veneer with adhesive backing. If anyone has a source for this I would appreciate a link to it. Thanks
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I have used color preserver over NCP thread ever since it was recommended to me by a builder at our local tackle store, and it helps seal threads, reducing bubbles when applying the finnish coat of epoxy. Also it can be easily cleaned from the blanks if you're concerned about it before applying finnish; just use water and a paper towel.
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Those of us on the west coast, wrap the rods we use , the way we do, for one reason only...durability over a long period of time, where the rods are abused heavily while fishing and then must stand further abuse in the racks on long range trips. If you've never fished in this area, you obviously wouldn't understand why we "overbuild".
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I just finished two trolling rods for trout fishing at a local lake, and the handles I made were cork tape covered with flocked shrink tube. These things are pretty much bullet proof,,, can withstand the abuse of being in rod holders all the time, and if the flocked shrink tube wears out, , can be replaced easily, without affecting the integrity of the cork tape.
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I am looking for a rare blank, no longer made by calstar, a 130, eight feet in length. I have made many rods using the 7' blank, but the 8' model hasn't been produced in a long time. It's my understanding that they still have the mandrel, but for whatever reason have decided not to produce the 8' model. If you have one (or more) of these blanks and are interested in selling them please let me k
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I have another question about the abalone inlay.......has anyone used color preserver on it, to cover the thread work on the inlay itself, and if so what was the effect, if any, ie; discoloration etc. Thanks
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Just wanted to post a word of thanks to those who helped me out on a recent request concerning abalone inlay. First to Kevin Knox for persistent support this past weekend, I finally managed to download his informative DVD. Secondly to Todd at Mudhole, for sending me some of the adhesive necessary to make this happen. and Finally to Scott at Aqua Blue for providing more adhesive as well as some i
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I got a hold of Kevin Knox's video and found it to be extrememly informative and covered the suject very well I thought. Anyhow, one thing I discovered is that the veneer he's using has a backing on it , that the veneer I bought does not have. I contacted Kevin and he gave me a couple of ideas, specifically using a spray on type of adhesive for this, but warned that it was probably way less
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Is there any way I can download the article , I'd be happy to pay for it, just need access to the information.
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I got a hold of a sheet of green abalone veneer from XXXX XXXX, and am wondering the best way to apply it to the rod blank . It hasn't got any kind of glued backing like I recently saw on another product, so I'm going to have to come up with something that will hold this stuff in place, long enough to flex coat it. That plus try ing to flex the material around the blank has proven to be a pro
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Tom Kirkman's book is invaluable. Get a copy and it will become your bible to getting started, if you follow his instructions. That plus this board, and you will have all the information you might possibly need . Good luck.
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I will try and answer the specific questions raised here. It was in a plastic bottle, and the number on the bottle was 811........not 811A . I had two bottles of the stuff, and got rid of both. Thanks for the responses, at least I know it's not an isolated incident. I use Gudebrod NCP on most of my projects and have never had a problem with the thread, but as stated, the CP is a different
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This is the first time I've used this brand of color preserver, and it's definitely the last. Typically I will use flex coat, but because I was out of it and needed something quick, I went ahead and used the Gudebrod preserver. I knew I was in trouble about 1/2 way into it, on a Calstar 270-8', when the stuff started to go off on me. Never seen anything like it. I was applying this on the unde
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I was at the west coast rod show yesterday, and picked up a Rainshadow SUR963, RX7 graphite, 8-17lb line rating, 1/2-2oz sinker rating, and was plannning on wrapping it for surf fishing the crankbaits and plastics . Deal is, I haven't been able to find this blank in any Batson/Rainshadow catalog that I own, so I'm wondering if this is something that has been discontinued, or is it just a new prod
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I was at the west coast show yesterday, and picked up a rainshadow SUR963, 8-17 lb., 1/2-2 oz, RX7 graphite blank, that looks like it will be ideal for throwing crankbaits, and plastics in the surf. Deal is I can't find this particular blank anywhere in my Batson/Rainshadow catalog. So I'm wondering if this is something that is no longer available, or that is just new and not in my particalar ca
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There's website called Knottools.com, they have everything you could want
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The gaffs used on most charter boats and some provate boats here in Ca., are 8' and longer pieces of bamboo, with net twine handles. Whipping being the quickest way to apply the net wine, and if done properly requires no additional epoxy etc. In addition they will usually float enough to be recovered, are cheap to make, and usually last a very long time before requiring replacemant.
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The gaffs used on most charter boats and some provate boats here in Ca., are 8' and longer pieces of bamboo, with net twine handles. Whipping being the quickest way to apply the net wine, and if done properly requires no additional epoxy etc. In addition they will usually float enough to be recovered, are cheap to make, and usually last a very long time before requiring replacemant.
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Mark, thanks for your response, I have ordered from you in the past and was looking for additional possibilities. I would really like to find several of the old 130-8' if there are any around, as I stated, they were discontinued, and the only solution now would be to add a foot onto the butt, which I'm not really eager to do. Anyone else that may have a line on these, my email is: f
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I'm a west coast builder looking for anyone who may have some calstar 130 blanks, either 7' or 8' , that you may be willing to part with. The 7' blanks can be obtained but , the minimum order is for 25. The 8' blanks are virtually impossible to find, and calstar no longer makes them. If you have some of these blanks and would be interested in selling them, please contact me through the email a
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Mark........No, I hadn't considered that prospect, fact is I've never cut down a blank, or, tried to lengthen one. It seems as though it might be problematic in this case, since there is a good deal of pressure exerted on the butt, when casting. This rod is intended to be used for surf-fishing, and the method I use involves continuous casting. I'm thinking that if I'm unable to locate this blan
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I'm looking for some 8' calstar 130 blanks to wrap. I know these blanks were manufactured over 20 yrs. ago, then discontinued, so I'm guessing anything available will be scarce. I'm willing to pay extra for these blanks, within reason. Anyone with any information regarding this , would be greatly appreciated. thanks
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Sir, Can't believe I finally figured out how to get registered here...LOL, Anyhow I just completed a trolling/stand-up tuna stick rated for 50-120lb test, using a eglass calstar 6455 xxh blank, aftco super heavy duty roller guides (51,41,41 31, 31,31, tip) , aftco reel seatw/gimbal. The fore grip is 16" Eva. For the butt grip (10") I use 2 layers of cork tape, with a layer of fric
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