I have used Torzite size 5 - was too focused on low weights. For this spey (skagit) rod - 650 grains rating, this was not really important. The rod was built for my own use - and frustration. I will try with razorblade and maybe carefully use some heat. New guides will be placed at exactly same place as old ones, probably hiding any mistakes. Thank you all for kind replies.
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I have used too small guides on a spey rod I've built for own use - loop connections do not pass through as the should. Would like to replace with somewhat larger guides. What is recomennded procedure? From what i have seen in different threads , it seems like the solutuon is to use heat for this, but not too much as it might damage the blank. How much heat is needed for softening epoxy fini
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In my case, the epoxy finish was like 3 or 4 days old and well cured. The layer was very thin, which must have been an important factor.
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I took the apporach of trying the least drastic method first - the eraser. It actually works! By using the eraser intensively, the stains do really disappear. This seems to generate just as much heat as needed. A big thanks to you all, for providing good advices! This forum is the best place for seeking advice from fellow rod builders.
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By a mistake there has been left small spots of epoxy on the blank. The stains are ultra thin and applied by indirect exposure. Is there a good way to remove such stains, wth heat or perhaps sanding? It is a surf-rod blank, and is matte charcoal (RS SU1264F). If sanding is an option, what grade?
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The locknut became very hard to turn. I did replace the complete grip/handle - it is ok now.
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I have used Fuji with my rods, and with no sign of problems. The experince with the factory rod probably fall within the category of cheap replicas. Thank you for the responses.
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How durable are graphite real seats from the major rod building suppliers? So far, I have built my salmon rods with graphite real seats (typically rated 10-25/30 lbs line). They still are fine. On the other hand; I have a commercial rod bought 25 years ago, where the real seat started malfunctioning to such extent that I replaced it. I'm not sure whether the reason for this was that commerci
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No, not at all :-) Thanks for the contribution! I have actually browsed thru previous materials on this in forum and photos. I see the possibilities in having an external ferrule , as described. In my case, the lower section had a crack in the blank. It was necessary to get rid of this. I cut off two inches, enough to get rid of the crack and get a clean undamaged bottom section. The once
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I have an old 9'5#, where the bottom male section broke many years ago. A local rod builder tried to fix this by inserting an internal ferrule, but without success. There was still a crack in the blank. I have cut the blank two inches, planning to get a better internal ferrule. I wonder: - Where to find supplies for such ferrules - What should the internal length be (the unsuccessful was onl
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Planning to build spinning rod for "scandinavian worm fishing" on this blank. Have not been successful to find a setup for guide spacing for this. The blank is Discontiuned, 11'3 Medium fast. Also, the tip is listed as a 5 tip, while other old web documents indicate a 5.5 tip. Any details on this blank would be appreciated.
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I'm aware of the discussion on snakes versus ceramics. This is taken into account, and I have settled for a solution. We'll leave it there. My concern is; should I upscale the ring size (by OD) to get te same ID, or is this not important taken into consideration that running line has smaller dia than ordinary line. Thoughts about this would be appreciated.
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I'm about to build a 13'6 skagit. The guide chart from the producer is listed with snakes. I plan to use the new Fuji torzite instead. Allthough the torzite guides have a minimal ring size, it will still be a bit more narrow than snake guides.. Should I consider increase the ring size slightly, compared with the default setup? When casting a skagit rod, only running line should run through r
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I guess the term trolling was imprecise. We fish norwegian rivers for salmon, without downrigger equipment. Crank bait is the only force applied to the rod. What is of importance is to have a rod where: - the tip indicates that the crank bait wobbles as it should - there is enough power to fight a heavier salmon Although I am very pleased with the ISA1266, I think a stiffer alternative wou
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I have bulit a few Rainshadow ISA1266f for trolling Atlantic salmon and sea trout. I'm quite satisfied with these, but they lack a bit of backbone when fighting bigger salmon. Is there an good alternative which can match heavier salmon (15-30 lbs)? It is essential that the tip is sensitive enough for showing that the crankbait is swimming well. Can the rainshadow BP1266 be the right blank
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We did perform tests on this. When pulling line with pressure through the ceramic only, the line was not damaged. The line gets the damage when giving out line by pulling off with hand. It's natural to do so with a line-meter-count. The line then will pass on the outside. The exact problem is idenified. It is in the junction between foot and ring. For certainty, I could spare one of my wifes st
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I hvae built a casting rod for a friend, which is mainly used for Harling (Trollling salmon in river). When he strips off line, the outside of the first ring makes abrasion in the line.. It seems like there is a small unevenness just where the guide foot joins the ring. How can this be removed? Should it be sanded or should I add some varnish/epoxy there? A good recommendation will be appre
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I did search around for teflon/ptfe mandrels without much luck. Will old rod sections covered with PTFE tape work?
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Thanks for the responses. Your experience and knowledge is very helpful for me!
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A simple question: What type of glue is appropriate for glueing together cork sections and handle on blank? Epoxy, PU-Glue or wood glue for outdoor use?
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Thanks a lot for your advice - very useful comments! Audun
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Ten years after building my previous rod, I did assembly a spinning rod for the upcoming season. However, the epoxy finish appears somewhat bulky. From what I've seen on some instructional videos (after the incident) I should certainly have used an alcohol burner with the finish. Is there a rescue procedure for this? The epoxy was U40, and the application is lite to medium. Thanks, Audun
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Thanks for useful responses! I think I'll try a static test approach with around 12 guides. It's true the tip flattens out when the rod is heavy loaded, with the bend more mid-sectioned, where guides have some distance from rod. The spacing chart I have for the IST1266 is for ten guides. If anyone have a setup with more guides for this rod, it would be appreciated.
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I recently bought a blank for salmon/steelhead (rainshadow 10'6), a casting guide for the set, and all the other stuff needed. The casting guide set (Fuji Alconite Blnag 169), which should be appropriate for the setup, seems to me as to guiding the line very close to the blank. Especially the smallest guides, to be used close to the tip, has no foot, only a frame. When casting/retrieving the rod
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