Well I fought it off as long as I could, But I am going to break down and finally build a rod with micros on it. I was hoping it would all be a fad and pass and I wouldnt have to. I am building a American Tackle classic series 907 (i think thats the model number) 7'6'' H Fast flipping stick. I am going with a size 6 double foot 3 #4 micros and 8 #3 Micros plus a tip. I think that will wo
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i was wondering if anybody knew where i can get some NFL decals for rods? I am looking for a colts decal especially. Thanks Ked
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I'm a big guy (6'5'') and have big hands as well. I would think an 18 would do you right. on a rod like that unless you are going to be using it in a rod holder or something that might damage an exposed blank I would build a split but. I would just use small cork fore grips on both ends of the reel seat as with a big grip like that you won't be touching the blank anyways. And just use sho
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I disagree with using smaller guides on a fly rod...On my fly rods I put bigger diameter light wire guides and feel that it increases my casting distance. As fly line is different from mono or braid I think it wiggles more as it goes through the guides and having the bigger guides help get more distance and line shooting ability. If single foot guides were truly better they would replace sn
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Talked to a guy that made his own dip tank out of pvc pipe...he used 2inch pipe as he didn't want the expense of buying so many gallons of varnish. he made a pulley system with a crank handle to raise and lower his blanks.
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any number of the 2 piece fly blanks for light long spinning rods. I especially like the American Tackle Black matrix series as thy have more back bone than most.
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Maybe you can heat it up enough with a hair dryer to get it soft and maybe try to comb it out. I have ruined many a good pair of pants gluing up cork.
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What I have always used with guide spacing charts is it is a good starting point. Every blank is different and one company's fast action is another X-fast. So I would tape them up where they need to go and test it. If they need to be moved move them.
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I got some edging tape from a hobby shop for taping off detail work. It is about 1/8th of an inch and a bit stretchy so it works well on the narrow fly blanks.
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it is just the orientation of the reel seat if you tighten the nut down it is a down locking...if you tighten the nut towards the tip it is an uplocking. But if you take an up locking seat and flip it around it becomes a down locking.
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I've used several different things from the health and beauty section at the wal-mart. The thing that I have found that worked the best are the wooden cuticle pushers...once they wear down you can sand them back to the original shape on a piece of sand paper flat on a table. But i have found the best thing is the 89cent thread packer that many different companies carry. Mine came from Mud-
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It does keep it from moving. What I have done in the past is get it as close as possible at first when you tape them to the blank. Then before you put in your tie of loop get it dead on then do the Forhan's tie it off and check it. it may need just a little bit of wiggling that you can do. I just don't think it is going to work if you are trying to move it a quarter turn.
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Well I am primarily a bass fisherman on the fly. I prefer an 8wt for most of my bass fishing. I mostly fish poppers during the summer for them. The 8wt casts the big bass bugs so much better than a 6wt. I prefer a 9ft rod because of the distance. Also if you are sitting down in a canoe it makes it a lot easier. But if I were going after musky I would use at least a 10 wt or a 12 just bec
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Build it like you would a spinning rod with no butt grip and a huge foregrip...Just make sure your reel seat is a flush mount or mortised seat before you build. If your cork grip isn't mortised you will need to do that before you assemble it on the rod blank.
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With s static test like you did weight is really the only issue. I would use the same rod with different weight reels to change the balance point. Because a rod combo might change in less than an ounce from one to another. But a poorly balanced rod that is tip heavy will feel heavier than an actually heavier rod that is better balanced.
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use burl cork...tougher than regular cork but not synthetic
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It is because you are casting and not retrieving through pressure (water) so they are getting torqued on the cast and not realigned when you are reeling. Same thing happened to my first spiral. But if you look at the amount of time you spend in the act of casting vs the amount of time spent retrieving and you will realize it makes sense to have the guides on the bottom.
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I had a blank shipped ups...I came home to find my package bent like an L sitting on the porch...I got it replaced no problem. But you would think if they broke it they wouldn't even replace it
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See that is the problem I am trying to fix with the flexing of my longer mandrels I have used before. If you are only turning three inches why have a 18 inch mandrel.
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I was at my local wood craft on saturday and they were doing demo's. They had a fellow turning pens out of exotic woods. he was using a mandrel designed for turning the parts of pens that are pre drilled. Has anyone used one of these for a reel seat? I hope it would work because they are only 13 bucks and it would make turning reel seats a lot easier.
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I have turned cork on several different styles of mandrels that I have com up with on my own. The mandrels from Lamar are awesome. Your lathe might not be set up to accept a mandrel. I had to do some tuning on mine to get it to work. To get the lathe to accept the mandrel you will need a chuck jaw for the head stock. There are many varieties of these. The one I uses is a drill chuck fro
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I am building a 6ft 2wt as we speak...well not exactly...I'm taking a "study break"...I had to try a few different configurations with the guide placement because of the flexibility and the length. I have never built a rod this small save for one Ice rod. But other than that I have had no other issues..
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One thing I have tried with good success is gorilla glue. It makes the best bond because it expands but because of that it can be very messy and if you use too much it can cause problems. I have used it on reel seats and grips. It is like having a polyurathane reelseat shim except it expands to fill the void so there is no reaming or shaping needed. But I would advise testing before you us
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I had this happen on a saltwater spinning rod I built...probably the 5 or 6th rod I had built. I used the big double foot stainless pac bay guides it squeaked a bit but I chalked it up to the guide feet moving a bit inside the thread wraps kinda like the sound you get when glass gets squeaky clean. It don't do it now so I guess the problem solved itself.
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Have you ever tried to wrap it in twine then use the textured heat shrink tubing over it?
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I used the belt and assembly from the sewing machine to make mine.
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What I do with my flipping sticks is use tungsten powder. It can be picked up at golf pro shops for about 20 bucks for a half pound. I just mix up some slow set epoxy and pour in the needed amount of powder and mix it up. Then pour it inside the blank then I install the butt cap to cover the open end and stand it up and let the epoxy/tungsten powder mixture settle at the bottom.
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I would buy a lathe...there are going to be useful parts of a lathe that I think you would have a tough time finding for a home made lathe and the motor may be too fast for applications of cork turning but I doubt it has enough torque to turn wood usefully. I bought a good craftsman lathe at a flea market for 75$ so look around. Also get a good mandrel it makes turning so much easier Y
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run some line through it and test it. take out a few of the size 7 guides and test again. I wouldn't use over 7 for that rod maybe 8 total. Just play around with the spacing until it flexes right and the line runs true to the flex of the blank.
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For Cranks that do have a constant motion fish hit them on the move and it is more of a smash and grab and seem to be hooked in funnier spots. Don't get me wrong you will hook fish outside the mouth with topwaters but less than with cranks. The reason I like a slower actioned rod for cranks is for two reasons. One is with a soft rod it lets the crank get the full depth it can dive. The ot
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