we could still move them after the wraps were on before the final adjustments and alignment. I've wrapped several rods and a couple 3 wt fly rods and have never had a problem before. But anyways they gave him a gift card for the grip and blank and sending back the broken pieces so we can get the guides back. So were going to have to rebuild the rod.
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I got my buddy into rod building over the winter and he decided to build his first fly rod. He had helped me build a couple bass rods and one fly rod as well as building his own spinning rod. He built a cheap fly rod from some extra parts in my shop and a 30 dollar Jannsnetcraft Blank. We wrapped the rod and it looked beautiful and then we put cp on it and took it outside to have some room to
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I have done some homework and I have an accountant...Its my brother and I am paying him in rods. He has helped me out and I have a freind who works for the Circuit Clerks office and she has helped me out as well. But I do plan on making it a legitimate business venture, I actually just met with my fist "client" that isn't a friend or related to me today to get an Idea of what he wante
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So I am going to the county Clerks office on Monday to file a business license and make it all legal. I've talked to a few friends who have went through the paperwork process and got that all figured out but of course none of them have started a rod building company and don't know much about the tax part of it. What I need to know is what is tax deductible if any of the rod parts? With a
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well if it was a conventional rod that was over loaded and torqued over it would look like a spiral wrap?
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thanks for the info guys for 250 thats not too bad to get a unique rod.
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I was browsing @#$%& the other day and stumbled across some bamboo fly rod blanks for 75 bucks. I was like yeah sure 75 bucks. But they look nice and the guy who is advertising them seems to know what he is talking about. Have any of you guys used them or had any experiences with them?
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I was using flex coat lite build epoxy. I used 2 coats and the first went on pretty good and the second turned out wavy. I was thinking it was too much touching with the hand writing. But thats the only thing that I don't feel "comfortable" doing. Because once the epoxy goes on theres no redoing it.
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I agree that my finish is a little wavy and it looks worse in the pic than it does in real life. I used a TFO blank because I got it donated and I wanted to use the agate stripper guide to make it look a little nostalgic. I am filing the paperwork to start my "company" And I know i need more practice but the people that bought them really like them. Thanks for the criticism and t
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yes tell me good an bad points...some things I can see, but you guys know a lot more about it than me...so let me have it.
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here are some pics...what do you think of it?
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I don't know if you guys remember my post a few weeks ago about me building a rod for TU. The @#$%& was last night and they sold the rod for 300 bucks. it made me feel good to see one of my rods go for that. And the president of TU was the one that bought it. There were 3 or 4 people bidding on it at one time. It was a good night. and have a lot of compliments on the rod. so it was goo
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I have been having this same discussion with my buddy. I taught him to build rods and we tapered the guides from a 30 to an 8. he says that his loomis can cast farther because it has smaller guides (25,20, 16, 14, 6, 6, 6). I told him that maybe more accurately possibly but with an equally matched blank, and reel the bigger guides (to an extent) will make it cast further.
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check out goldenwitch.com. they have a lot of nice products geared towards bamboo rod making. A little pricey but well worth it...lots of stuff that is very ornate and pretty.
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I know the charity is good and i'm glad of the fact. I know the money raised will go towards cold water stream restoration. But if it helps me out then good for both parties i guess. I'm not looking to base my business an this one charity rod...I know that won't happen. But if nothing else it gives me a good excuse to build a nice rod.
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thanks for the input guys, I will get chance to say a little bit about the rod and I believe that for the sheer fact that theres not too many rod builders locally it may help me out. And because this isn't a big fly fishing area like Colorado, or Idaho the guys that fly fish are willing to travel to these places and are willing to pay a little extra for exactly what they want. I have quit
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I have had the recent pleasure to get to build a rod for Trouts Unlimited for an @#$%&. They payed for the parts and through my job I got the blank donated by Temple Fork. I hope that this will help out my business some. Have any of you guys had experience donating rods for @#$%& and what were the outcomes? This is my first rod that I have built a fly rod for anybody but myself so i hope
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I tried to explain that to my buddy the other day. I helped him build his first rod and we tapered the guides down like rod number 2...and he was saying it didn't cast as far as his production loomis that pretty much uses 3 sizes of guides much like rod number 3. I tried to convince him otherwise but he still belives his production loomis' are better.
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Does anybody know where I can get the United series of blanks? Mud hole has quit carrying them and I haven't found anywhere that has em.
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I have been using graphite USA's united series of rod blanks. Since mudhole has quit carrying them and is almost sold out of them is their anywhereelse that sells them...or their fly rod blanks as I was trying to find one to try.
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yeah i've seen gaps and tag peaks on some high end all stars and g loomis' ...some of the best looking rods are shimano's .
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I build one a few years back it was on a 8'6'' fiberglass blank its really tip heavy but does its job. I would do a split butt on the rod to keep it light, though weight isn't really an issue, as far as guides Like they told me in my post about Ice fishing. They don't really have that much of a problem icing over. And if you are FnF fishing its gonna be in say 40+ degree water and if you have
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Thanks for your help guys, I figure I will go with the medium blank I fugure it will be ok for walleyes which is what I think this guys uses it for. I was going to use a tennesee style grip with the nylon slip feet, unless you guys suggest something else that would work better. I figured on using pac bay's light series of guides or the berkley SS304 guides...But I don't know which would be ligh
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A guy from work wants me to build him an ice rod for his uncle for christmas. I was planning on using a tennesee handle but do i use regular guides or what? If I do use regular guides do I need to use bigger guides to keep ice from freezing them up? thanks in advance
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Cabelas sells some rod building supplies and they have a color called fenwick brown...seems to sound like what you're looking for.
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the shimano crucials have the cut out in the for grip. Its on their dropshot rods and has a split but and a hook to hold the drop shot sinker. The way it is made with an uplocking reelseat and where your hand naturaly sits and where your index finger crosses the bottom of the blank it has a litte cut out that exposes about 1/2 inch of the blank. Looks like an exposed reel seat on a casting rod
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try some powerpro. I've never tried it but it should work. At cabelas or BPS or Sportsmans warehouse where they spool reels they should have bulk spools and I believe its 5-8 cents a yard. So for about a quarter I'm sure you could get several cuts worth. And it comes in sizes up to 150 lb but it still has a small enough diameter that It shout give nice clean cuts.
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are yuo sanding on a mandrel or by hand? because if you go against the lenght of the handle sometimes it will dig in at the glue lines. Its 1000 tomes easier to sand on a mandrel. If you don't have a wood lathe get a 12 inch piece of threaded rod from lowes and 2 wing nuts and 2 washers then clamp it on there chuck it up in a drill and tada you now have a lathe.
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I agree barry...I'm 6'5'' with a 37 inch sleeve, I like my rods with a long but and when people use one of my personal rods thety hate them because they can't handle the long grips. But for buildign a rod for somebody else I measure from their wrist to their elbow and subtract 2 or 3 inches and mount the reelseat here making sure thebottom is the measured distance from the butt. Thats usuall
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go with the 8wt it will help throw the big bugs...and cortland makes a bass taper line its in their precision line that has a heavier front taper that makes it even easier to make good casts with. I'd also use double strippers to try and eliminate line slap. redid a 8 wt I built a few years back and put 2 strippers on it and I can tell a difference.
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