I don't think it matters the distance from the cork grip to the first guide as the cork shouldn't get in the way or cause it to have any problems with the rod flexing. If you are comfortable casting with a longer grip go for it.
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to turn a grip on a lathe you will need two things a mandrel and a chuck for the wood lathe. I got a craftsman drill chuck that was about 24 dollars and the mandrel i got was from Lamar tackle about 9 bucks. the chuck fits perfectly into the headstock of the lathe. I built a grip much like the one you are planning to build. I used 60 grit sand paper to turn the cork and a small gouge and th
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I had my first experience with center pin reels a few weeks ago in NE Ohio fishing for steelhead. I was fly fishing with conventional tackle and I saw several guys using the center pins some of them were HUGE with what appeeared to be 6 or 7 inch diameters. The rods they were using looked to be built like fly rods with the reelseat at the bottom and a longer cork grip above it. I had a lon
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Its not going to make a slow rod fast but I have used heavy guides to slow down the action of a rod so If you used light guides and small wraps and maybe even doing a spiral and using less guides could help but its not going to make it like a pool cue just less like a willow switch.
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If you use a razor blade and don't push the blade through the thread but pull the thread against the blade being held flat against the blank helps. Where the thread is a bit springy it will pull down under the wraps and never be seen. But I have found that using a dull blade is the number one cause of me having it fray and point up in the finish.
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I have a 36inch 1hp craftsman wood lathe that I bought used from a flea market for 75 bucks and bought a craftsman drill chuck for 23 dollars to hold my mandrel. For 100 bucks it takes 15 minutes to turn out a grip and works so well its amazing.
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A buddy of mine wants me to fix a pair of rods he wants to use for crank baits. He bought two older eagle claw rods for 6 bucks. the reelseats are busted and they are plastic. Pistol grips I can find but the rods are only 5'6'' and if i put a regular pistol grip it will shorten the rod down to 5 ft. Does anybody make a pistol grip that is the arbor style like what is on there so I can keep th
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thanks a lot guys..this has helped me a whole lot. I will be doing the seminar with the Trout unlmited chapter here in town and some of the guys have built rods in classes before but most tat will do the class have not done it at all. I figure what I will do is make the wrapping jigs and just charge them the cost of the materials and let them keep them so they can keep doing it at home. th
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I was asked about doing a rodbuilding class and I was wondering if any of you guys have any experience as how to set it up? How do you get wrapping jigs for everybody? how is a good way to show the intricate steps without individually showing everybody? how many days should it take to do the class? and any other insight as to what to do. thanks
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Sportsmans Warehouse sells it in bulk and it should be pretty cheap like 15 cents a foot if you have one close. If not they will mail it to you.
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well for something like that I would use a medium to medium heavy rod with an extra fast tip. you will have the tip sensitivity and the backbone. On those big smallies with no neck so to speak just a lot of big shoulders you're going to want a rod with some more power incase you need to keep him from going into other lines or other boats or what ever.
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I am building a 6wt rod for steelhead around Lake Eerie. I will be going there in december. From what I have talked to the people I am going with a 9' rod in 6-8 wt would be sufficient as most of the rivers in that area aren't that wide. I would use 2 stripper guides or even 3 would hurt one bit and use a guide size bigger incase ice becomes a problem. And I prefer double foot guides througho
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thanks guys those sound like what he is lookign for!!!
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My buddy fishes the smokies and would like to hike into some smaller streams for brookies and was wondering if anybody knew a company that makes a 6Ft 2Wt in 3 or more pieces. Thanks
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I hear most fellas that do it use a solid glass rod and 100-150 lb braid. The guys I have helped set up used spinning reels but I'm sure a casting or conventional set up would work well as well.
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now that is a "custom" rod...a spiral rod is easily discernable by the eye and I bet it is just as easy by the blind...the first time my uncle saw one of my spiral wrapped rods he looked at it and asked if the tip section of that rod was on backwards...I then explained it to him and then he just shook his head.
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yeah yeah typo...M-ML power, Fast to Ex-Fast action...But will popping blanks be light enough to handle the 1/8 ounce sizes they want to use?
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I talked to a parts supplier back in the summer and he said they were having money issues because they had to pay out a partner who left. Whether this is all true or not I don't know I just know that it is hard to get the blanks sometimes. And I love them and build most of my rods on them....I hope they don't dissappear or go out of country.
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I have 2 guys looking for the same kind of rod but for different reasons, they both want 7'-7'6'' spinning rods in a ML to L action with tennesee grips. One wants to use it to pitch weightless live shrimp for some inshore wading and the other wants ot for tailwater trout fishing with small spinners and spoons. I figure I will have to go with a salmon/steelhead blank and I have looked at Loomi
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I think the balance is different for every rod...I like my crankin rods to be tip heavy and I like for my jig/worm rods to be butt heavy. I use tungsten powder mixed with epoxy to weight my rods
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thank you...
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I have been getting this question a lot at work lately...I have read this before so if you guys could help refresh my memory. A lot of people keep asking me if Shimano rods Crucial and above are G Loomis blanks. Do you guys know anything about this?
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I was turning a piece of walnut down for a fly reel seat. It bound up and shot the gouge across the room...scared me a little bit!
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I really think that cost effective is why some production companies are going to the split grip...they know every way to save a buck...thats the funny part they're saving money and charging more...But it for me ads a decorative appeal. I do a but wrap and then just trim the split and do my company name and the customers name in the blank space.
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So if I am reading this right...I got a guy that wants me to build him a rod for his favorite drink...Makers Mark bourbon...I can use the label from the bottle? Or the wax from the bottle?
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As far as fly rods goes, theres a lot to feel. I would suggest going to a fly shop and picking some up in the 3-5 wt class in different lengths and fiddling with them. Get an Idea for what kind of rod you want and then go from there. Some companies offer blanks as well as production rods so you can pick up a rod you like then get the blank and build it custom.
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yeah those first 10 came pretty quick, I was working on 4 rods at one time...it was kinda busy there for a few weeks. I was through BG the other day on my way to Nashville. If you're ever in Lexington I work at the Sportsmans Warehouse on WInchester Road.
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I just finished my 10th rod as a business and I have to say I feel good. Things are going good and I'm getting ready to file my 720 tax form. Is there any advice any of you guys that have been in it for awhile for me? Thanks to all of the help to get me this far.
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the guides on the newer ones are a Berkley product.. the SS304 you can get em from jannsnetcraft. they're pretty cheap usually about a dollar a piece.
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I have decided I need a Switch rod. I've been reading on them and searching on here but still have a few questions. I want to use the batson IF1086-4 blank I think that will be all I will ever need. I've started fishing a bigger river that has some monster browns in it and is about 250 feet wide. So I think I might like the extra distance. But my question because I have never seen a lot
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