"I think we can safely say that most people are satisfied with the service from Mud Hole " Ditto. No one's perfect - but never had any issues w/ Mudhole. Great on-line store and one of these days, I hope to visit their store in FL (leaving the CC at home of course LoL). I will relate on rather unusual experiance I had with them. I did a $150+ order and with that was suppose
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After learning the Forhan lock, I use them on all my spinning guides now, not just the fly ones. Although it's not a guarentee. I've seen two Ti SiC guides, in the last 4 month, that broke right at where the wrap locks the guide in place. Could be a coincidence?
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I may be wrong here, since things always happen in real-time, and I'm rather static, but this statement: "Hardloy, Alconite, silicon carbide (SIC)) are all able to withstand the superbraid lines" If memory serves, I read on the Fuji sight the Hardloy's are not recommended for braids, but the Alconites, SiC's, and TiSiC's (and the expensive Gold ones) are suited for braid. With
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Queens Wharf in Long Beach has some nice 1/2, 1, and 2 days ocean going vessles. They rent gear, but I'ld rather fish w/ my own.
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That's why when I use USPS, I insure everything. VA's been having problem w/ people following FedEx /UPS trucks and taking the packages left on doorsteps.
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On my first few rods, I didn't keep them on, mostly because I fish w/ thumb and forefinger on blank (sensitivity - small mouth bass) and the epoxy and hook keeper both gets in the way and dampens the vibration. Now I'm toying w/ adding one above the reel seat - out of the way of my thumb/forefinger area. Mostly I just put the hook in one of the guide supports, never in the ceramic, and very
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"It might not be thread packing - it's definately NOT epoxy contamination. your problem is inadequte coverage with the color preserver. It is caused be one or both of the following: Old color preserver inadequately remixing or to little cp on the threads" I had this problem to. Been wrapping grey/black blanks w/ black thread exclusively, and decided to add some color to the rod.
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If the wraps do get dusty, just dab them lightly w/ HomeDepot tack cloth.
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What's fixative?
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Galen Now that's out-of-the-box thinking - I like it.
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Straight guides .... This is the process of rod building that takes the longest for me. I've tryed many methods and came up with an amalgamation of a few. First, get the tip top placed. Then I get the guides placed on the rod w/ surgical tubing or blue-masking tape (if the tube's to thick - UL's). I've also used the rod glue to hold them in place in a bind, but prefer the surgical tubin
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"Don't put your brush directly in the Perma Gloss bottle, pour what you are going to use into a small glass container, such as a shot glass. Don't use a plastic cup as Perma gloss will eat it up. The fumes from both Perma Gloss and urethane are hazordous so have plenty of ventilation and I would recommend wearing a respirator that has a organic vapor cartridge" DITTO. Four coats s
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When I was fishing for Peacock bass in ElSalvadore, we used pool cue's for rods. MH and H blanks; mostly salt water rated casters or spinners. Didn't need an expensive sensitive blank - when peacocks hit a bait, you know it!! Not the standard bass fishing gear we experiance here in the good ol' USofA. Peacock bass are mean fish and when in their natural environment can raise havok on an
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I read somewhere that Fuji recommends Alconites or better for braid. BUT, been using superlines for years on Premier St. Croixs (w/ Hardloid guides) and they still passed the q-tip test.
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Actually, I like the graphite foam ones, because they're easy to shape and I needed two, so I ordered two and I got two .... BAGS full of them now.
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TN handles and RodWrap for me. LoL
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Hey, If you really feel broke, go steal the rotisery motor off your bar-b-que. It works. I upgraded to a 6 rpm motor from Mudhole and bought the $20 stands to hold the motor and rod.
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Home Depot sells a set of 3 stainless steel picks for around $15.
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I'll go a little off topic too. Initially, I though you were only talking about pound rating on lines, not on the blanks. Blank line ratings should just be used as a guide - but that's been covered pretty well here. On lines, I remember a pretty detailed discussion, with someone who actually tested line ratings on an instron. Tectan was the only line out there that had 'correct' line
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"grains" huh I know what kinda scale you're using .... ;-)
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U-40 Permagloss urethane
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I got one of those $70 flex coat hand wrappers and a $20 drying motor (MudHole) when I started a couple years ago. They still serve me well. I'm only wrapping about 10 rods a year, so for me, it's more of a hobby than a job.
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"If you build many rods at all and don't have a Dremel, get one." Even if you don't build many rods, get a Dremel. And pay the extra $20 for the pencil-like attachment.
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Yo Mike. Come join us on DR's site Yep, and finally got a 2500 Mg for her. Still need to break her in. Now working on two UL's for trout in Northern CA and Utah. Tight lines.
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Look what I just found ...
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Tryed the search stuff, but nothing. Looking for a website that showed a detailed step-by-step method of converting a store bought rod's conventional reel seat to a split handle TN seat. Any one have that in their Favorites? Thanx
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Excellent resoarce for an eclectic hobby. Before visiting RB.org, never realized so many were into rod building as a hobby or a profession. Surf the pix, some of the stuff goes beyond fishing to art masterpieces. Thanx Tom!
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Dude, Let's look at the cheap way first, then you can move up the ladder if the hobby suits you. I'ld first go to the Mudhole website (link on Left) and order their free catalog. It has basic rod building w/ the mimimal expense. Build a few cheap rods ($10 blank, $10 guides) and get the hang of it. The Mudhole catalog shows how to make a wrapper out of a cardboard box, a thread tensi
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First thing I do is fill those gaps w/ a brush, then start the rotation and add the epoxy to the guide. Last rod I used a spatualla for the first time. I could get use to those.
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20 12 8 6 6 6 6 6 tip top Concept system, Fuji Concept SiC or TiSiC (depending on available $$$)
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