What is the best way to remove 2 inches from the the butt of a graphite blank?

Wrap the blank with masking tape where you want to cut and then cut it with a hack saw.

Nathan

Mask off the area around where you want to cut. Use a Dremel tool (or any high speed rotary tool) with a diamond cut-off wheel. Rotate the blank as you cut. Quick, easy and no splintering, as can happen with the hacksaw. Plus your hacksaw blade will be pretty useless after a few cuts on graphite. It dulls the teeth like nothing else.

A Dremel tool with a thin cut off disk will slice through it like a hot knife through butter.

I've trimmed off a few ferrules to make them fit better,as well as take an inch or two off several butt sections on heavier fly rods where I wanted to attach a fighting butt,yet keep all the sections the same length(since a fighting butt can add 1 1/2"-2" to the length of the butt section).

I couldn't believe how easily and quickly a Dremel and cutting disc cut through the blank,and the cut is very clean.

If you don't yet have a Dremel-type tool, then an X-ACTO (HOBBY) RAZOR-SAW is a good choice, too. There are TWO different versions of almost the same thing. Both are in blister-packs, hanging on pegs, at craft shops like Michael's.

One package has TWO steel blades / razor saws. They are of two different size blades, but they are ~ 40 teeth/inch. These are good for fiberglass rods. About $8 for the package.

Another package has only ONE much larger, longer & broader blade in it. It also has the same red, detachable handle for holding the knife-razor-saw. It has 52 TEETH per INCH, and gives a finer cut. Blade dimensions are approximately (6 inches long) x (1 inch deep). It is better for the graphite rods, and using one blade for graphite and one for the "softer" fiberglass keeps both blades sharper and their cuts cleaner. Also $8.

Definitely use a masking tape on both sides of the cut to prevent splintering, reduce marring from a slip of the blade, and form a groove within which to guide the blade. Cut only in the FORWARD direction.
Happy New Year, Mark. -Cliff Hall-

Bench grinder works fine.

Mark,
You have a bunch of good suggestions but I have found that if you have a chop saw or a mitre saw a diamond blade in a chop saw works the best. The second best is one of the inexpensive blades for cutting tile or masonery. Either one will give you a very straight edge and cuts graphite or fiber glass very quickly. They both have the added advantage of doing a very good job of cutting cork.

If you build many rods at all and don't have a Dremel, get one.

Some manufacturers won't honor the warranty if there's evidence of the blank being sawed.

Besides ruining your saw blades, sawing graphite tears the fibers.

Like the other posters say, get a Dremel(Craftsman) tool. You can also use a three cornered file. Don't forget to use the masking tape! Happy New Year. C2

I found a small "chop saw" at Harbor Freight for 18.00. It has a small vice for clamping the blank firmly and a very fine 80 tooth blade - no more hacksaws for me.

Thanks for the strong suggestions. I'm adding a 2" fighting butt and want to have both pieces to be equal length.

Have a super wonderful New Year.

"If you build many rods at all and don't have a Dremel, get one."


Even if you don't build many rods, get a Dremel. And pay the extra $20 for the pencil-like attachment.