This is the cap I recommend for the shipping method outlined in the new issue of RM. Sorry the photo was not clear enough to show it easily.
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I wonder how many will recognize this exotic species.
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This is NOT a threadless wrap. It is wrapped with 00 silk, wetted with thinned Permagloss and topcoated with epoxy to give a similar appearance to a true threadless type wrap. If you look close you can just see a hint of the thread texture over the guide foot.
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My best to date. Caught on 9', #10 custom fly rod.
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Beyond mere marbling or mundane moire wraps, the Super Holographic outshines them all! I apologize for the blurry photo. My camera doesn't do well up close. I have a neighbor who is better at photography than I am and will try to have him take a good photo of this later today. I'll post tomorrow if it comes out nice. I have submitted an article on how to do this for a future article in RodMaker.
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Even with the same colored threads, the final color and effect will be different.
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I have been face to face with her and she is not going to be paying you, me or anybody else $1 much less $10,000. I made a comment to her at the 2010 ICRBE about her Diamond II not being the same as the original and that I knew for a fact that it was repackaged Envirotex. She did not like that comment and since that time has been doing her best to hound me. She even managed to somehow get my wife
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A few years ago I warned of the danger and confusion that would be caused by the "micro guide" moniker. I have certainly been vindicated time and time again these past few years as fishermen and rod builders talk about using "micro guides" without any knowledge of what size they are or why a specific size guide should be used for various rods and under specific applications.
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The cap is in the photo but it’s hard to see. My apology. I do not have the camera equipment or the skill to take really good publication quality photos and the timetable was too short for me to ship everything to Tom for him to photograph the items there. I will try and put a photo of the style cap I recommend on the photo page this evening. In the meantime what you want is the thin packagi
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The Simple Spiral will work very well for that application. The Bumper guide is not a transition guide. Spacing should be done without the Bumper guide in place. Only after your other spacing is done is the Bumper guide added.
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If you have access to a lathe the easiest method will be to turn the old grip off with a gouge. Quick work. Be careful not to dig into the blank of course. I would stop just shy of the blank and sand or scrape the last remnant off.
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It has been out of print for several years. A copy sometimes turns up on Amazon, used. I spent a few months keeping daily track here: , and finally found a good condition used copy for not very much money. Alibris seems to do well in turning up out of print books. It may require a week or a month, but I suggest bookmarking it and check in every so often.
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Yes, I spoke to someone in your booth Sunday about a St. Croix SCII/IV 9' #5 fly rod blank. The lady said you did not have any, but did not advise if you had any of these on the way in. We were cut short. Please advise. I would like to order one if possible.
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Just to clarify. There is a nutty woman around saying that I have been attempting to take credit for Scott Throop’s Tiger Wrap. I contacted her personally and corrected her bad information but she did not respond. I have no idea what her beef is but this is absurd. Anyone that has the actual issue of Rodmaker Magazine where the two articles ran will already know that I credited Scott as the ori
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The CCS is very easy to use. You cannot say otherwise just because a dozen or two dozen people are having trouble understanding how easy it is. Thousands of others truly are using it easily and productively. It is just as easy as a thermometer. Definitely. Let me tell you why I won't submit any data to Bob's site. I have run the CCS numbers on almost 900 rods and blanks now. I recorded all t
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I'm glad you found it helpful. I thought it would be something that some would find very useful. In the interest of fairness I want to metion that Tom edited the article and took out a bit of credit I gave him for the idea. Maybe he did it for space or maybe he did it because he didn't want any credit, but that credit is due. When I talked to him about this idea I wasn't sure where to get the
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A half turn of twist may not damage a rod but I doubt it does it any good. I wonder if you performed that half twist a few hundred times and then loaded the rod to failure what the case would be. I have no way of knowing, but I tend to think that each time you give it a half twist it might do just a teeny tiny bit of damage and after a few seasons maybe all that twisting would add up enough to th
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The reels with the fly open level wind mechanism were built by Daiwa. They proved problematic over the long haul and they stopped building them within a year or two. Some reels have stationary level wind guides on the cast and others continue to move. It depends a lot on the size and type level wind reel. Larger reels meant for striper or light salt live bait use still have moving level winds on
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I was reading the NFC blog a little while ago and I think they hit the nail on the head and helped show why the CCS is so valuable. If a customer comes into your shop and says he’d like to have a rod a rod built that’s a “little longer” than what he has now. What do you do? I think most of us would ask him how much longer and expect an answer in inches or feet. After all, a “little l
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I had considered asking Tom to provide seminar time at the Expo for me to present my pages of blank measurements. But after careful consideration I feel it would be boring and mundane and would much rather see Mr. Stevens present a seminar on the New, Improved, Super Duper Helluva Looper Swimbait Special Series. Now that's entertainment!
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Mr. Stevens: There is no reason to make things more difficult than they need to be. If you have a fisherman come to you and tell you he is using a rod that is 6' in length and that he would like to go longer, you would ask him why longer and then determine if another 6" will do the job or if it requires more than that. So you would move UP the length scale to 6'6", or perhaps 7'. It
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If you want to know what a set of guides weighs, you have to weigh them. If you want to know what the relative power and action of a blank is, you have to measure it. Start today- every blank that comes through your shop should be measured. If you know other local rod builders that do or will do the same you should share with them and vice versa. This will allow you to build your own databas
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I record the length, weight, power and action of every blank that comes through my shop. These are kept in a computer database. When a customer comes in for a quote on a new custom rod, I have him bring the rod he now owns and which is the closest to what he wants in the new rod. Once you have established a baseline with a current rod it becomes a simple matter to move up or down the scale for
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HIgh Build will do anything Low Build will do, but not vice versa. You can put High Build on thinly, but you cannot put Low Build on thickly without running and sagging.
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I would not move the seat just to change the balance of the rod. Put the seat where you need it to be for proper handling and let the balance fall where it may. Once you add a reel, line it and fish a plug, all that is going to fall by the wayside anyway. Only thing I would advise is to always build the upper half of the rod as light as possible. A thread, short wraps, PG for finish. Make us o
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Barry you have hit the nail squarely on the head. That was very well said and puts into a single sentence what others have used many paragraphs to say. "... I see the CCS as something devised to put relative numbers on action, power and speed as the blank or rod EXISTS AT THE TIME THE MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN." If you want to know how your building of the rod has changed the origina
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I measure and record every single blank and rod that comes into my shop for ERN and AA. On fly rods I measure the CCF as well. I find these measurements every bit as helpful for making comparisons on power and action as feet and inches do for comparing length. The old system of Fast, Moderate and Slow just has far too few points of resolution. And the manufacturers' power ratings like 1-power
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The quality of your printed Abalone depends mostly on the quality of your scanner and ability of your printer. What I have cooked up is almost identical to the genuine article but lacks the sparkle and glint, until a thick coat of finish is applied. With holo you have it right out of the box, but it is almost more colorful than actual Abalone.
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I would not drop down that quickly. This is something you really need to try by test casting. I cannot imagine anyone just using guides based on sizes given on a rod building forum, including this one. With mono I would start with a butt guide that is about 1/2 the diameter of your reel spool diameter, or larger. For braid only, I would use a butt guide that is 1/2 the diameter or less than th
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