I’m hoping that someone can help me. My friend asked me to replace a guide on the above listed fly rod and I am having a hard time figuring out what make guide it is. It’s an older one piece 8’ 10” model. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Ignore the 5.5, that is the tube size for my tip top. I was looking at my build notes of parts when I wrote this. Ooops. And thanks for your input Herb.
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Thanks Tom, I'll play around with your suggestion.
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I was wondering if anyone on here has built the above CTS 10wt, and if so what was your guide spacing? I have been playing around all day and am just not feeling it. My guide train is 20, 16, 12, 6, 5.5, 5, 4 (4's) and tried 6 (4's).The rod is 8' 9". Any thoughts or experience would be very appreciated. Thanks
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Thanks for the feed back. I was thinking that if I get enough epoxy in there it should all become one.
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I am building a 10wt fly rod and am using an REC RFTS reel seat with a 1.5" fixed mount fighting but. My question is in order for the fighting but to be epoxied into place and be flush with the reel seat, the real seat will have to mount with a 3/8" over hang. That does not make sense to me because wouldn't that take away from the support that the blank gives the real seat? Or am I mayb
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Thanks guys, much appreciate it. I miss measured by just a little, so don't have to remove too much material.
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I am building a 3 wt and this is the first time I'm using a real seat with a wood insert. My question is about fitting the seat. Generally I use foam arbors and ream them to the size and shape of the blank. Do you do the same with wood ones? I have seen a video or two where the bore on the seat requires tape arbors and fitted from the butt of the rod. I hope this question makes sense. Thanks
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Just fished a buddies 12wt 1 piece Hardy fly rod today. Very impressed by it and was wondering, does Hardy make their own blanks, and are they for sale to the public? I did some research but nothing really came up but their own rods. I know 1 piece 9' rods are hard to come by now, but wow the power.
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Thanks Tony, Worked like a charm
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So as the subject states, I didn't see that I got a small drop of epoxy on two of the eyes of my guides. What would be the best way to remove it? I'm hesitant of using a blade as I could inadvertently scratch the eye. they are titanium fly rod guides. All the help would be much appreciated. Thank you
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This is the first rod build that I'm doing where the real seat requires a recessed fore grip for the seat to fit. My question is how do I keep the epoxy from getting into the (what I would call) the forward hood that fits into the recessed grip? Because if epoxy get in there then the fly reel won't properly fit, if this makes any sense to you. Thanks
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Thank you guys for your feedback. Very much appreciated.
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I'm going to be building a 11 wt tarpon rod and am considering single foot wire guides except for the first three stripper guides. Would size A thread be enough or would I want to use size D? Thank You
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Thanks guys. I can only imagine what shipping would be.
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You say they are still available. Do you know by who, or point me in the right direction?
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A friend of mine has a 1 piece 9' 12wt fly rod and I was wondering if such blanks are still available. I've looked around with no success. I know that do to the length shipping woud be pricy but just curious.
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The Judge 7" L is fast action, and just because it says light power it is a very strong rod for what I'm using it for. Throwing live baits at pelagics of all size. The real is a 5000 Daiwa Saltist. The idea of the rod is to make small fish still fun but can stand up to a large dolphin, or sail. I find a lot of the big offshore spinners to powerful when most the fish are on the maller side of
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I don't intend to take the guides off. I have an identical blank that I want to build rather the same with the change of larger guides. I tend to fish mono offshore, I prefer braid inshore and for bottom fishing. I generally tie a bimini and then a no name knot attaching the leader to the bimini. I did not mean for it to sound like I was going to take the guides off. I put to much work into it to
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Sorry I made a mistake, it goes 30, 20, 16, 10, and on two 8's. Don't know what I was thinking when I wrote it. Lot's of numbers floating around in my brain.
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I built a Judge 7' L spinning rod with a guide train of 30, 16, 12, 10, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, and an 8 tip top. It casts very well for my purposes but was wondering what would happen if after the 12 I went to all 10's. The reason being is that I find when I tie on a leader larger then 40lb the knot size gets to a size where you feel it really hitting the guides. Will this significantly change casting
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I sent you an email Herb because I don’t know how to unhide my email. Thanks David
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Thanks Herb, and will do I typed in CTS and Revo in the search and found nothing. What shoud I search. Thanks
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I looked around and have not seen any mention of CTS blanks. I've read reviews on line but was wondering if anyone here has had any experience with them. I'm thinking of doing a 9' 12 wt build with one.
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Those are really nice. Apreciate the info. That tiger wrap with the fish is very impressive. I take it you paint the handle first?
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So this might be off topic but I have seen some boats that have custom wrapped bait nets for their live wells. Usually matching their custom rods. Does anyone make or sell these kits? Or are these very creative people?
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Thanks for all the feed back. I guess like a lot of things with rod building, it's trial and error and what works for you. I'll try shaping it a litle more to my liking and see what happens.
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So I've seen a lot on guide prep about shaping and fililng down the leading edge of the guides. My question is can you also file down/shape the sides of the guide to reduce the gap when rapped. I have a guide that when rapped has a signifigant space under the thread that I don't think you could get filled with epoxy and stay hollow. I'm thinking of just reducing the guides edges to get a smoother
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I had the same thing happened to me. I built an oven out of two long cardboard boxes and put a lite I. Side it and let it bake for two days. It worked. I’d start with just putting it I. The sun for a few days like suggested above.
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Put the rod in the oven yesterday evening, pulled it out an hour ago and it worked. Epoxy nice and hard. Thanks everyone for all your advice. If it had not worked I would have probably tried a thin coat over the existing wraps.
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