Did a bunch of tests long time ago and this what worked for me: 1) apply finish to blank rod and allow to dry so you get a clean surface 2) apply p touch label AND colour preserver ( may do couple coats if need) 3) apply your finish after that dries Only reason I don’t use my ptouch is I wasn’t impressed with the resolution of 180dpi. I now use my laser colour printer and decal sheet
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Thanks for the input everyone! Sounds like most at least start with 90 degree but not necessarily ccs standard load. I’ll try the same on my deflection board jig I’m starting to buy more blanks than I can build for the year and want to at least test them when I receive them.
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What do you do to inspect/ stress test your blank to discover any defects before building? I’ll do static deflection tests for my guides but don’t usually go too much past the “enough weight to deflect 1/3 of rod length”.
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Just wanted to say I love following your thread! Especially the thought process into all your design decisions. You show great care in your build. I’m wondering with the changing thread colours may be good to display it in a short video clip when done? Rotating it in different light Regarding bubbles for the epoxy coats: been using G4 past couple years and I can’t even get bubbles to appea
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El Bolinger Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > NFC put the sale on but removed free shipping, so > I'm not gonna bother anyway. I really was just > trying to catch the sale, but I'm probably better > off not and just learn/ experience more myself > FYI, If you are referring to the spring sale the free shipping option is working again. Appear
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Wow!! Just wanted to echo the kudos to everyone helping create this list! I will definitely go through my inventory to see what I can contribute.
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John DeMartini Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The set screw in the back of my Alps chuck is > metric It is..... > > M5 X 0.8 5mm long > > Have fun > > John Thanks John!
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Just using the one that comes in the ALPs upgraded chuck Was hoping it was just a common thing people have already encountered. Ordered North American power one True worst case I can take the chuck out as I see how it removes now
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I lost the set screw that tightens my alps rod wrapper behind the chuck. Anyone know what specific size the set screw is so I can order replacement? Thanks!
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Tyler let me know how your build goes :) I did noticed my first 180 guide has line loaded more in the 9 o’clock position or non bearing load. More digging in the forums seem to suggest some tweaks thet can help lessen if it’s a concern. Long story short, I just made sure my guide spacing was smaller and used a slightly larger guide on my second 180 guide to help get the like down on the
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Here’s a thought as well: if you put two sets of info (say rod specs and a name) do folks prefer to align the text such that when the rod is spinning in the dryer it can be read right side up continuously? Or write them such that when looking at the rod from left side it’s upright and when reading the other text on right side it’s upright. I do generally like writing from butt to tip tho for
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Mike Ballard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What you want to do is > after setting the rod up for good stress > distribution go back and slip the bumper guide on > the line and let it hang loose while you put a > heavy load on the rod. Then slide it to the > position that puts the line right through the > center of the guide ring with
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The Rub Prevention Guide (Bumper Guide) does not > transition the line in any way. The only pressure > on it will be directly in towards the blank so to > preserve the straightest possible line path you > want it to be as low as possible right down almost > on the blank if possible. A double fo
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Hi everyone, I'm building a bass/pike/musky casting swimbait rod (NFC SWB-807 1/2-5oz) and planning on using 65lb braid. Built number of rods, but first spiral. I've read the Simple Spiral article in the Rodmaker SE Guide edition, and searched quite a bit on this forum. Some things/info seem to have changed over time so wondering if the following assumptions are correct: 1) Article refer
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I had similar website experience with a large shopping cart order last week. It was not my browser. Tried various browsers, mobile/desktop, cleared cache, saved and retrieved carts.... and server errors happen at random intervals of cart adding.. so it wasn't a particular item either. Eventually got an order through after hammering at it for a day. Hope things improve on the new site.
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Preference as well, i just like the feel of the split grip when casting. Also saves some weight if thats an area of concern.
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Thanks Norman and Spencer Sounds like i'll probably be ok or can make it work with some slight modifications.
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Have a 14” nfc carbon fibre grip shipping. Was going to pick up a butt cap and maybe trim ring from mud hole but not quite sure the size I should get. Anyone have some experience with them? Do they have similar dimensions to the CFX brand or another brand I can interchange the parts? Thanks!
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Use old braided line as once i used the new lime green powerpro and it left some nice marks on my light coloured thread :)
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Thanks everyone! Joe/john that style looks to pretty versatile. I like how you can adjust the angle in small increments. I have a Scotty rod holder that I was going to mount but the degrees between each swivel position is bit large for my liking. Norm, so are just shimming the blank on the brackets during times when it is not level?
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I’d like to create something to hold my rods against my wall for common cents system testing. Saw some posts that referred to pics in the photo gallery but I can’t seem to search it. So wondering if anyone has direct links or can describe what they used. Currently I’m just using a table as my holder... which works but want to take advantage of the wall space I have. Thanks!
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Thanks David for your reply! I agree that hopefully it should not be that different with the minimal tip size change. Then again, i've also measured the actual blanks and sometimes they are off too lol. I'll probably pick it up just so its slightly different than my friend's and we can compare. Worst case i could always cut a bit off too i guess. I'll do a CCS test on it as well and share i
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Thanks Spencer! Never thought of it from that perspective
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I noticed the nfc 739-im is listed as fast action whereas the 709 is mod-fast. I like the way the 709 bends in my ccs testing.... anyone know if the slightly longer 739 is similar and just mislabelled? The 709 had an approx 68 degree AA. Thanks!
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Thanks everyone. Yah I’m bit biased to ecsm seats too. Great I’ll go with that and at least have the option to knock them down if really required!
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Building on my first x-ray blank. Has anyone had comfort issues with the ridged texture when using an exposed reel seat like a Fuji ECSM? I see a lot of premade inserts won't fit the diameter of the blank. Just curious reel seats most folks are using. Thanks!
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On my first rod i was so eager to start trying to wrap my guides that i didn't realize i had them all on backwards lol. Guess i never really paid attention to the details of the rod until having to build them!
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Thanks Jeff/Ben, I'll give the tape and hang method a try. Thanks Russell, I've never actually tied a line to a cane pole. Is there a particular name of the knot/procedure? I unfortunately don't have any extra tip tops right now.
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Been reading many CCS articles here. I started performing some CCS measurements on my collection of rods and blanks. Attaching weights to a finished rod or one with a tip top was easy enough. But what if you are testing a blank? I was using a paperclip and dental tubing which worked fine for lighter power and moderate blanks. But I have some heavier F/XF blanks that had the clip slip off
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Thanks Norm, I may reach out later this month if things still look a bit wonky. Thanks David, yup i just ordered some extra guides from the weekend sales. Hard part will be waiting the next couple weeks with the rod just sitting there :)
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