It comes in 4 different sizes and can be cut to any width you'd like.
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Agree. NFC's warranty department is great !!
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Les, Here is my thoughts on putting a chamfer on the leading edge of a polyurethane arbor. You're still going to end up with the squeegee affect at some point. but the extra build up of epoxy in the chamfered area, is going to act as a reservoir of epoxy, so it will in essence, be supplying a fresh coating of epoxy as the arbor is being inserted into the reel seat. With that thought in mind, it p
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Les, I enjoy my job. All of our units are custom built, and while the majority of them use the same type of components, we do get customers that spec very specific components. I'm lucky in that the unit departments group leader, was my team leader when I started. He must think I'm pretty good because when we get a new type of component, My team usually gets the unit to build, or I'll be switched
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Bob, while it looked super clean and sophisticated with just the wood winding checks, the wrap definitely adds a very nice touch. I love how the increasingly smaller spacing of orange between the black thread makes it like a fade in the orange thread color. Very nice. And very clean work. Elegant actually. You got dem skills, don't you? lol I may some day try some different types of wraps
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Hope you guys don't mind if I offer my thoughts on what's being discussed, as well as some anecdotal experience? When you groove the surface of an arbor, and fill the voids completely with epoxy, only the surface area of the arbor has been reduced, not the surface area of the epoxy. So the surface area of the epoxy in contact with the inside of say, a reel seat, remains the same. Regardless o
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Bob, and I truly mean this ........... that is the sweetest looking handle set up I have ever seen. LOVE the wood winding checks and spacer between the butt of the grip, and the butt cap. The color combination is perfect !!! . Reminds of a black Mercedes Benz 500SL with leather interior. And meticulously crafted as well. Absolutely beautiful. Seriously! Seeing your work has me wishing I had a
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Les, I know you and I have talked about the MB 725 blank more than a bit, but I can't remember? Did you build your MB 725 spinning rod with an XO Skeleton grip? I only ask because you and I have talked about how the XO skeleton grips affect the IP numbers on a blank like the 725 that bends so deeply into the butt section when it's under a full load per CCS standards. The IP for your 725 casti
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Bob, I feel certain that the rods you had to epoxy the AT arbors back in, felt pleasing, because the weight reduced the tip weight of the rod. I also feel all but certain that the extra heft you felt, was really only when you weren't holding the rod in a tip elevated, fishing position. As Les mentioned, some like a weighted butt, for balance. I am most definitely one of those "some"
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Kendall? At the very end of your post you say, lever arm related inputs? Do you say that to mean the importance of the lever arm affect in detecting a change from one moment, to the next? That's how I'm interpreting it. Would I be correct in that interpretation? No doubts the lever arm affect plays a major role in bite detection. But as Les' list shows, not all bites are of the type where the
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Les has you dialed in with his thinking on guide sizes and line sizes. They only thing I might personally change from his suggestions, would be, and it's based on line type and size is ..... if you think you might be using heavier fluorocarbon lines most often, say 17# test and up, you may want to experiment a bit with your distance from the reel face to the butt guide. I run 15 - 20# flu
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Les, what got me thinking about the type of information in that article, was the distinct tick you get when your bait falls onto a hard surface. There's no cadenced resistance of a bait being pulled through the water, or you jig being dragged over a gravel bottom, yet we feel a very distinct tick. That tick is impact energy being transferred to your line. You don't feel it when you bait hits a so
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Eric, nice to see that some comments in that other thread triggered an emotional response from you as well. Anyhow ..... enough about that other thread. You're definitely right, while I haven't actually tested the effect counter weighting has on rod tip recovery speed, a member of this site, Michael Danek, has with using a process he came up with that he terms as the TNF (true natural frequen
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Ken, you're absolutely right. Water will definitely damp oscillations occurring in the line. And I definitely considered that. I mean heck, water is far more dense than air, so its' damping effect on line oscillation is much greater. In air, as in the example I gave when I drag a jig across my concreted drive way. I can see the line quivering. Highly unlikely, even impossible to see if the line w
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Eric, first let me sincerely apologize for turning your other thread that you referenced, into what it became. Which was a personal back and forth between Tom and I. In your opening post of that thread you mentioned feeling vibrations with your rod, and in the post immediately following your opening post, Tom said what you feel when you retrieve a lure, isn't vibrations. Tom and I, and others
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Tackle Underground is the best lure building forum I've found. It has forums for both hard and soft baits, as well as fly tying. There are several other forums as well. One of them being rod and reel building and repair. I started pouring some of my own soft plastic baits several years ago, and found it very helpful. Members are friendly, and helpful to newbies and veterans alike. It's a g
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At this point ......... Yes, at this point a change of topic away from what you and I have been discussing here, while telling, is definitely a wise choice. Have a nice day ......
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Tom, it's clear that you have great respect for Emory Harry, and that your saying that once he grasped the concepts that you presented him, he changed his mind, is not meant in a derogatory fashion. What I am about to say is said in that same fashion. First, my contention with you is with your saying that what we feel through our fishing rods, are not vibrations. Rod length has zero to do with
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At least we both agree that a longer rod gives the fish more leverage, and not the angler. Trying to convince some of my fellow tournament anglers of that fact is more than reminiscent to what we have going on here. Or had going on here ..... I eventually gave up with a couple of those guys too. Enjoy your Thanksgiving Tom
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Eric, the tip weight of a rod is the sum of all of the parts of the rod. They all play a role. Building the lightest possible rod, does not guarantee a rod with a light tip weight And it's not just the weight ahead of the reel seat that plays a role in tip weight. It's the weight of the grips as well. Grip weight can and does act as a counter balance to the weight ahead of the reel seat. You
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The materials used in the construction of the rods, line, and weights we use, can and will affect the crispness of what we feel. Tungsten weights offer a more crisp feel when you drag them across the bottom, than a corresponding size, lead weight. ( pronounced led, another heteronym) Fluorocarbon mono filament lines offer a more crisp feel than nylon mono filament lines. Braided lines offer a
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Has anyone said that everything that happens in a fishing scenario causes the line to oscillate? I know I certainly never have. And as I have spoke of in the past when talking about the rods I counter weight so they are tip light. I tip light rod makes it easier to weigh your line. A longer rod also allows you to sense changes in the weight more easily. I have caught some very nice bass by se
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But at least you are now reasoning that the longer the rod, the more strongly you feel whatever it is, due to the lever effect. Perhaps you missed this ...... below is a direct quote from my post to this thread on November 25, 2024. at 6:38 PM "Once again I have said this in past threads, but it bears repeating.. Just like we use our ears to hear, we use leverage to feel. Increased le
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Tom, I assume that you're referencing a post I made in response to your post to me containing this line "The fantasy is believing that inputing signals into a rod tip via a speaker, Adams Apple, etc., etc., are in any way similar to what's going on when you retrieve a lure through the water with a rod. The two are not the same." I no longer see that post. Any idea where it went?
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Certainly not debating that surface area is king when it comes to bonding two things together. What I like about the idea of cutting grooves into an arbor, is the idea of a splined shaft. You see a lot of splined shafts in heavy duty rotational applications. Seems like it may offer benefits in that regard.
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With Thanks Giving being a time we're to contemplate what we're thankful for, I couldn't help but thinking about how thankful I am, for the sponsors of this board. Without them, this board more than likely, wouldn't exist. So what better time of the year than to let the sponsors know that we are thankful to them for helping to pay the bill, to keep this board running. I certainly haven't
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Just so I'm clear .......... we're to ignore the Merriam - Webster definition of the word vibration. We're to ignore what the bait is causing the line to do. And we aren't to consider the level of damping attributed to a slack line. We're to ignore physics in those instances, yet we're to use physics as proof that a longer rod (a longer lever) will be more sensitive to input at its' end, tha
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Eric ...... no blank "needs" titanium guides. I choose to put them on the higher tiered blanks, because they offer a bit better performance. From a sensitivity standpoint, I'm not sure I'd be able to tell the difference between titanium and SS guides. From a casting performance standpoint, I'm almost certain I wouldn't be able to tell a difference between the two. As I said earlier,
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Chris, thanks for posting that drawing with your description of what to do. I like it !! I like it a lot !! And I've only ever used masking tape arbors for the reason that Les described, and that is when the gap I need to make up for, is very small. Otherwise I use polyurethane arbors. As far as a 15 mm OD arbor in a 15.5 mm ID reel seat .... from my experience that is more than enough room t
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As Les alluded to ....... line type and size is going to be a major consideration. If you're using very supple braids. reel size, more specifically, spool lip diameter, isn't as much as a factor as if you were using a stiffer nylon mono filament, or fluorocarbon line. As John said, if you go to the KR concept software, you won't see much if any change when you change reel sizes, until you ma
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