Michael, that is impressive, to say the least. If you're like me, you've already beaten yourself up over the needing to modify the top row of the drying box, but man ..... that is a seriously nice set up, And beautifully built. Bob, yours is a sweet looking as well. And Tom's is a nice set up as well. Nice stuff guys !!!
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Josh, I have a Pac Bay power wrapper that uses the same type of tension system. Nylon washers, a spring, and a wing nut. I'm not sure I had problems with the wing nut tightening, but I did have problems with inconsistent thread tension. I ended up getting a pair or rare earth magnets from a former board sponsor. Alas that sponsor is gone. but if you enter the words "round magnetic washer wit
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Michael, I'm not sure which blank you are referring to, that I commented on. The RX9 Eternity rod that I mentioned above is the only blank I can remember saying is nothing more than a pan fish rod. At least that's how I see rods in that power range. It's a really really good pan fish rod though. lol The RX9 blank I built has the same listed specs as its' RX 10 version. No way in my estimation
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My guess is you're going with a split grip on that short of a rod, for the looks cool factor that split grips have. For that reason I wouldn't go with a 3" fighting butt. There wouldn't be much separation between the rear grip and the fighting butt, and IMO a split grip that is too close together looks out of place. Then again, I think small fighting butts look out of place as well. But
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Rainshadow RX10 ETES 610 MXF fits the bill for the CCS numbers you posted, and is definitely more than worthy of consideration. The RX 10 blanks are very very sensitive blanks. I haven't built a rod on that specific blank, but I have built a rod on a RX9 Eternity 2 version of that blank to use for drop shots. And while it proved to be way under powered for what I was looking for, it's probably a
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Matt has it dead on with talking about reeling in more water resistant baits, with spinning gear. He is also right about it being a personal preference thing. And if your personal preference is to work a lot harder retrieving baits with spinning gear, then ..... I know I am going to hear it from certain people when I talk about spinning gear is such a fashion, but there are undeniable advantag
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LOL Michael Nicely done !!!
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Some are talking about just balancing a rod, while others are talking about balancing a rod and reel. And isn't balance part of ergonomics? Personally, if the rod is of the type that I believe balance of the rod and reel combination is important, then I am not the least bit concerned with how much the rod itself, ends up weighing. Some objective data dealing with the affect that weigh
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Inspect, I just look it over really well. Of late, I have started to check the dimensions of the blank I received versus the published dimensions the blank is said to be. Other than that, not much on the inspection side. As far as stress test of the blank is concerned, I put far more of a bend in it than CCS standards for a loaded rod. I'll do that several times and bounce it while it's bent a
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Les. TNF testing is the testing of a rod in motion. It's a test of rod recovery speed. Not a test of the type that Aleks spoke of in the A Sensitive Topic thread. Its' results depend on the rod being in motion. Without rod motion, there are no results, that means it's a dynamic test. A static test, such as the way I interpret the tests Aleks was talking about, and the static load guide placem
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Matt, I can understand you having never felt a conventionally wrapped casting rod wanting to torque over in your hand. It's not something I had ever really felt either, until ....... I have mentioned an old 5'6" pistol grip rod that is a favorite of mine, in past threads. Years ago I had someone replace the guides on it because they were getting shoddy looking. That person put on running gui
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John, I completely agree that all that is important is that the tests show which is more sensitive, or in CCS, which rod is more powerful, or has a faster action, etc.... That's all that matters. El, the line path is not a control, the path the weight takes is. If you watch, you will see the weight hits the same rock on different sides and even misses some of the rocks that the weight hit on t
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Matt asked the $10,000 question. Gotta give way more specifics if you want to get a good suggestion. Hard to believe the Rainshadow Revelation REVS 68 ML REVS 68 M two piece blanks wouldn't fit what you're looking for, depending on how heavy of weights and the type of cover you plan on fishing. s And no, SJ, DS, etc. aren't really marketing ploys. The SJ blanks I have experience with generally
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El, I use just as many guides on my spinning rods as on my casting rods. How closely you want the line's path to follow the natural curve of the blank is what is going to determine guide numbers. At least running guide numbers, and in the sizes I use. Spiral wraps are about eliminating rod torque due to guide location.
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El, cool test in the video you linked. And while it's probably as close as you can get to a real dragging across the bottom simulation. I don't know that the controls are stringent enough to be acceptable for direct comparison testing. Definitely an ingenious idea of gluing rocks and mounting them in a rod dryer, but ...... the path the weight takes wasn't the same every time. That's a variab
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Daryl. just out of curiosity, have you happened to place that rod you referenced under static load? The reason I ask is, I've replaced the guides on 5 different factory rods, using 2 line static load to place the new guides I was putting on. None of the running guides were put back in the same place as the guides were from the factory. Part of that was because I was putting on shorter guides
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I personally don't see the point in doing static load in three stages. You'll eventually be moving the guides to be in the correct position for a fully loaded rod, so why not just start there and be done with it. A fully loaded rod is going to need more guides than a lightly loaded one in most cases. At least it will for how close I like the line's path to follow the natural curvature of the blan
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Chris, that's pretty cool. It appears that with the test set up mentioned, you could have the strike occur anywhere on the rod you want. That might prove interesting to see if an MTV reel seat, really does transmit vibrations better than others. I'd imagine you could test how well different grip materials transmit vibrations as well. Definitely a neat little toy for those that are more tech drive
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This makes me think of those tournament days when I started the day with a certain bait, and catch a couple of nice fish right off the bat. So what do I do? t keep fishing that bait the entire day, despite seeing signs that I should have at the very least, changed up my presentation. Those days don't usually turn out to be days when I have a shot at collecting a check. I spend the ride home
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Joel, I agree that certain aspects of this thread went very well. Some, not so much. I know I learned more about how some of the technical aspects of blank design can be manipulated, in order to bring forth certain aspects of a rod blank. And I had no idea that a carbon fiber could be coated with a metal. That is some cool stuff right there. And if any of my contributions to the other debates
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Joel, I certainly respect your point of view. And yes, this is a wide open public internet forum, but that's where my agreement with your first sentence ends. Reason being, one simply has to read the opening post to see that this thread started as being quite technical in nature, With a definition given to set the parameters for the discussion. To keep the discussion focused on one aspect of fish
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Let's have all interested parties get one thing straight. The rule for this discussion was set forth in the opening post of this thread. That "rule" being, that the definition of sensitivity for the purpose of this discussion was a tubes ability to transmit vibration. Despite calls that interested parties stick to the definition of sensitivity that was laid out in the opening thread, it
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LOL Les. I know you're kidding, but if anyone ever wanted to start a list of logical fallacies, this thread would a great place to get it started. I can think of at least two points of discussion in this thread that would easily qualify as worthy of being on such a list.. Definitely some head scratching, you gotta be kidding me kind of stuff going on in this thread. lol
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Kind of funny that objective data is being demanded to prove that TNF isn't an indication of a blank's ability to transmit vibration, when you won't find a spec of objectively obtained data that confirms that it is. Wny? Because it doesn't exist. It's a belief. A subjective opinion.
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Matt, I lost a lot of fish on the jerkbait rod I built on the SJ783, and as I mentioned above, I took 6" off the butt of the blank and it still didn't have enough flex into the lower part of the blank for my liking. I ended up giving that rod to a guy a work with. He uses it for spinnerbaits to 3/8 oz, and for Fluke style jerkbaits and says it fishes those really well. Even in its' trimm
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Bob, I think the finish in the last two photos, looks beautiful. Like you, I'm not a good enough kind of guy. I am real picky when it comes to most things, so I can understand your consternation when things aren't exactly as we hoped. As you said in an earlier post, we do the best we can, and we can take pride in knowing that we did our best, even if the results aren't what we'd envisioned. O
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The first rod I ever built was a dedicated jerkbait rod. I'm a touch under 5'8" and I wanted a rod with a finished length of 6' to avoid slapping the water, and the gunwales of my boat, with the rod tip. To me, jerkbaits are a bit of a different animal than other treble hooked lures like crankbaits, in that you need a fast action rod so it has the tip to work a bait hard when needed, yet sof
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I have to agree that the filing looks a little rough in that photo. As for whether or not the guide foot needs filed or not, as you can see, some feel it isn't necessary, while others evidently do. Count me in with the others that evidently do. I have dressed the foot on almost every guide I have have wrapped. The only ones I haven't are on the very first two rods I ever worked on, They were fac
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Kevin I have to join the ranks of those thanking you for keeping this thread updated so meticulously, and for the huge amount of work you have put into the spread sheet and your generosity in sharing it with the members of this site. You dang sure deserve all the thanks and gratitude being expressed. OUTSTANDING !!!!
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David, with you saying you are wanting to make tenons on the ends leads me to believe you a power wrapper or lathe? If so, mount the grip on a mandrel, get it spinning and use the edge of a small jeweler's file or even a small mill file to make the cut. It makes an extremely clean cut. No fraying or anything even resembling such a thing. You can even use the edge of the file by hand, to cut th
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