I just got done wrapping two rod built on NFC MB 725 C6O2 X ray blanks. I used size A thread, and I wrap with high thread tension. You just have to pack frequently, and I found that using my finger nail to pack the thread, or the pad of the tip of my finger or thumb to roll the thread to pack it, works pretty well. Trying to pack with a packing or burnishing tool was unsuccessful. I use a pow
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I have some other questions if there is anyone that would like to offer opinions on? I wondering about my guide train. I've been wanting to try guides from Alps for some time, so the first blank I build on, (whichever one I think will best fit my initial needs) I'll be using Alps guides. Their MN series. With the bigger heavier baits I'll be throwing, and the chance of a big ole toothy critter
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Logan, thank you for the response. I appreciate it. I, and others on various rod building forums I visit, agree with you as far as the straightness of NFC blanks. I've had some that are very straight, the majority of them having a slight curve, which I find totally acceptable. And some that are well...... pretty darned crooked. As you said, performance, cost and the multitude of options availa
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Logan, I've considered one of those blanks, but NFC saying that because the blanks are hybrids, that they will most likely have a pronounced curve to them, has kept me away. Just how pronounced is the curve on the blanks you've used?
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Ken, thank you for the additional response. I truly appreciate it. I don't have actual experience with the blanks yet, but your feelings mirror mine in thinking the 764 will probably fit the size baits I'm throwing, a bit better. I've thrown the Hud 68 on a rod I have built on an MB 709 that I use for pitching and flipping, and it handles it pretty well. But, I have it counter weighted with 2 1/4
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Lurepartsonline is legit. I've bought stuff for making soft plastic baits from them. As far as blanks they sell. No clue. I've always been able to find what I'm looking for, or a blank I can trim to come up with what I'm looking for, from one of the blank manufacturers on other sites. Just looked at the link you provided. I've built on 2 Pac Bay blanks, and they were very nice blanks. I'm sure
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Expensive factory rod, built poorly. NRX? I've looked at more than a few of those in the tackle shops, and more than a couple have what I would consider very poor build quality. My first couple of builds were better in fit and finish, than they were. And those are $700 rods ....... Megabass has the best fit and finish of any factory rod I've ever looked at. They build a beautiful rod.
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Thomas and Ken, thank you both very much for the responses. They're much appreciated. Thomas, from looking at the pictures of their bend profiles on NFC's web site, the 765 is a lot more stout than the 764. Is there one rod built on those blanks that you lean towards more than the other? Ken, from what you're saying, and from what I'm seeing in the pictures of the bend profiles of the vari
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Perhaps the answer is in the name of the product ..... flex ..... coat. From what I understand, wrap epoxy is supposed to stay flexible. I just tried to see if I could dent a wrap done with Flex Coat high build with Ultra V, and while I didn't push extremely hard. I pushed hard enough that I would think I would have saw some evidence on the wrap. I didn't notice anything. I tried the same thing
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built a rod on an NFC Delta SW764, or Delta SW765 blank? I ordered one each yesterday that I will be using to build a swimbait / glide bait rod, for bass fishing. I don't really see myself, at least for now, throwing any baits that weigh more than 3 oz., with the majority of them being in the 1 1/2 - 2 oz range. Hud 68 Special, S-Waver 168. Rago Thunderhawk Cha Cha ..... baits in that size range
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My favorite NFC blank, at least for right now, Is an SJ 736 X ray. It does a lot of things extremely well. I can't imagine a better blank for fishing 5" weightless Senkos. It has a nice responsive tip and some good power. Sensitivity is top shelf. I also love it for dragging 3/8 - 1/2 oz football jigs for smallmouth bass. It's makes for an awesome fluke / caffeine shad rod as well. It's als
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Chris. True, spool diameter has nothing to do with how tightly you can spool line, on a reel. I wasn't referencing that. I was and am referencing how tight the line coils are when using smaller diameter spools. The coils are smaller in diameter ..... tighter circles I guess is the best way to describe it. Spool diameter definitely affects that. Hope that clears up the confusion. The meant fo
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Chris, what you're saying in reference is a bit puzzling to me, because it certainly hasn't been my experience. Here is what I've come to believe based on the reels I've used. All Shimano reels. I first tried fluorocarbon on a 2000 Symetre. This was back in the days they were first introducing fluorocarbon for use as a main line. Prior to that it was leader material. It was a complete fail on t
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4.5 KT, stainless steel frame, Alconite ring. .103 grams. 4.5 KT titanium frame, Torzite ring. .059 grams. Definitely not much of a difference, but let's not forget ....... guides are leveraged weight. Their weight is multiplied by their distance from the fulcrum. Any difference in weight is multiplied by its' distance from the fulcrum as well. That being the reel seat. I can tell yo
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John, thank you for taking the time to post those links. I truly appreciate you taking the time to do that. I took a look at both of them, and the Airity is a beautiful reel. Surprisingly shallow spool from the way it looks in the pictures. It must have a large ID where the line is stored, which if I were in the market for another spinning reel, I would research more. The larger the diameter the
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John, yes .... that is the angle I am talking about. I pulled up the page for the Exist to see if I could see what you're talking about. Boy, it sure does look like it has a high degree of up sweep. The reel I'm talking about here is a Shimano Sahara. No where near the reel that the Exist is. It's actually one of Shimano's lower priced reels. I don't know that it has the up sweep the Exist has, b
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Les, the 1 degree change in angle isn't responsible for the 18% increase in the length of the hypotenuse. The difference in the distance between where the line comes to the blank in a standard KR set up, and where the line comes down to the blank in a high choke guide set up, is. The base line grew in length, so the length of the hypotenuse is going to grow accordingly. If the base line remai
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Les, butt guide to rod tip, 52.25". Using the .42 multiplier gives a butt to high choke guide measurement of 21.945". The standard KR set up calls for the choke guide to be 22" from the butt guide. On my rod. it's 22.25". Using the .45 multiplier, the choke guide would be at 23.512" from the butt guide. As I said in an earlier post, I wanted to keep the high choke guide p
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Chris, I'm not sure, but I think Les may have been referencing what I quoted from the library article on NGC, when he mentioned the thinking that up sweep doesn't play a factor in casting performance. I definitely agree with you that line choice has to be foremost in your mind when dealing with spinning gear. And thank you for the compliments by the way. I truly appreciate them. And you're ri
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Les, no I hadn't read that article, but I just did. Thank you very much for supplying and suggesting that link. Definitely an interesting read, and it brings something that I questioned when I read the NGC article in the library. That being, "Reel upsweep angle isn’t really an issue in casting, however, as reels don’t “shoot” line like a rifle shoots a bullet." After reading that I tho
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Norman, thank you, and yes ..... distance from rod tip to butt guide was part of the equation. It was bugging me last night after I had posted it was rod length as part of the equation, so I went back through some of the older threads where the discussion was about the high choke guide option. There is was !!! Butt guide to rod tip ..... duh me lol Part of my reasoning to try and keep the hi
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Brent, okay, gotcha. Sorry for the confusion on my part. People have different names for some things, and I just wanted to be sure. It's like counting from 0 to 100. Is zero the first number, or is 1 the first number. For me, zero is the butt guide, and the next guide in line is the first reduction train guide. I know that can be confusing, which is why when I mention a specific reduction guide
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Brent, just making sure I'm interpreting what you're saying correctly on my end. When you say 1st and second guides, are you calling the 1st guide, your butt guide? Or when you say 1st guide, are you referring to your first reduction guide? (Second guide in the line) The way I am reading what you're saying is, that you're following the KR software to a tee? The same three guide sizes the softw
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The 3 + 1 is not even close to a cone of flight guide train. It's more of an NGC with smaller ringed reduction guides. As far as the 3 +1 having the same cone angle as a standard KR set up, I'd have to disagree. In the 3 +1, you're increasing the height of of the second reduction guide, (the 3rd guide in line) as well as the choke guide. You've now pushed the point of where the line comes to
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Fuji KL - 6L Height: 12.2 mm. Fuji KB 5.5 Height: 7.3 mm. That height difference doesn't result in a more shallow line angle as it enters that guide? And the guide that is 4.9 mm shorter being pushed 4.187" further down the blank isn't going to change the angle of the line as the line enters that guide? Or are those combined factors a doesn't amount to a hill of beans kind of thi
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What makes this FB person think it's likely to break? The fact that it's wood? Or did you mention something to him that you aren't posting here? Like it has a split in it or something? As far as drilling it out to reinforce it with an old rod blank or the like. No doubts you could, but do you really need to? Has the grip somehow been damaged to where you wouldn't feel safe using it?
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I got out to the local lake and did some casting from shore with the rod I built using the high belly guide option, and a rod I built using a standard KR concept set up, on which the choke guide is a KB. The rod using the high choke guide option is built on an MB 724 X ray blank, using a guide train of KL 20H, KL 10H, KL 7M, KL 6L, KB 5.5, followed by 6, KT 5's. The rod using the standard
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I have a build on an MB 725 C6O2 blank on the dryer right now. Casting rod, conventionally wrapped, using Fuji guides. It appears the Atlas guides are modeled after the Fuji's so my spacing would at least give you the starting point you're looking for. The guides I used are Fuji T2's. Butt guide KW 10, second guide up. KW 5.5, three KB 5's, and 7 KT 5's. 12 guides total, plus the tip top. The
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The Alps MVT is as Spencer described having fins inside the thread barrel portion that are sized to the I.D. of the reel seat you order. As far as the difficulties in fitting the reel seat to the blank being discussed here ........ there were a few of us that questioned these very things in the forum thread introducing them. No real answers on how to handle it came from that thread, so this
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LOL Lynn .... actually, Sexy Shad. And I have it in 3.5", 4.5" and 5.5" in TW Sunfish Magic. This is the first year I'm trying the 3.5s as a Ned rig bait. Got a good feeling about them for that. And the first year I'll be trying the 5.5 as a Fluke style bait. Been using the 4.5s for a chatterbait trailer for about a year. Pretty nice baits. As far as my test casting with my new
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