Nice !!! Jann's is within a couple hours drive of me. Glad to see them back on the list.
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Kevin, Awesome !!!! I love the thumbnails and the ability to scroll through the various pictures. In an earlier post to this thread Mark Brassett suggested using something like Postimage. I signed up for it, but haven't played with it yet. I'm going to work with it as well as the dropbox.com that you used in your post. I'm not super computer literate so which ever is easier to use. will be the
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Ryan, the type of spacing you're talking about to keep the line where it almost touches the blank, is the type of spacing I use on my casting rods, so I would say that's the type of spacing you're looking for. As far as questioning how much load you want to use when spacing guides goes ..... I use a load large enough to deflect the blank 1/3 of its' total length. Just as if I were CCS testing the
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John, no I haven't tried anything but epoxy finishes made for wrapping guides. I've used Trodak U 40 LS Supreme, and Flex Coat High Build with Ultra V. And because of what I've been reading about it, I have some Gen 4 that I'll be trying. I can't imagine the Gen 4 is going to be much different than the Flex Coat though. I really like the Flex Coat. I guess we'll see. And I definitely agree tha
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Ken, I went ahead and sent you an e mail. The subject matter will read, Rodbuilding.org member, and then my name. And thank you for offering to send the pictures. I really appreciate it. John, I'm glad you found the little bit posted so far, useful. I'll be redoing how the threads are being pictured, and should have a lot more to add by the end of the week. I'm in the process of wrapping a
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I agree with Herb when he suggests having them make their own hand wrapper. I built my first 5 or 6 rods using a hand wrapper that I made by simply copying a basic hand wrapper that I saw on Mud Hole, I think it was. If memory serves, and while it was a few years ago, I had less than $25 in materials, but I did have the 1 x 4 I used, already lying around. Here are a few links of pictures I ju
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Yeah ..... I'm in northeast Ohio, and the guys just got some ice to get out on. They aren't happy about the warming trend on the way. Not happy at all .....
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Les ..... heck yeah !!! That's a good idea right there.
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Or you can make something out of EVA, any size you want.
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I started by replacing the guides on a couple of my old factory rods. While it's not a bad idea to get familiar to with the process of starting a thread wrap on a dowel or an old piece of rod blank, you definitely want to get experience actually wrapping a guide onto a blank. Doing so will give you experience with finding a good thread tension to work with. You'll get experience with getting the
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It's hard to say, really. I will just say that any time I have stripped guides off of one of my builds, either to change the type of guide being used, or to change thread color, the foot of the guide looks like it was placed in a bed of finish. It's not completely under the foot of the guide itself, but it comes up the sides of the foot. Can I ask if you had applied CP on the thread before ap
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Ryan, ahh ok. I thought you had the blank in hand. And I can understand the disappointment of not being able to get the RX10 version, but the Revelation blank I built on is very nice. And is pretty darned sensitive. My jerkbait rod is built on a Revelation REVS68ML and I can feel the tick of a fish taking a jerkbait as it sits there suspended, or slowly sinking. Plus the blank finish really allow
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Kendall, you're right, drop shot rods are not power lifting rods. When I built on my first blank with a DS designation before the blanks length and named power rating, I was a bit surprised by it's power. That blank was an NFC DS 6107 IM blank. It's rated for 1/8 - 3/8 oz, 4 - 8# line, and has a named power of mag light. It's CCS numbers (and I just rechecked them) IP 353 grams, AA 77. I find it
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Ron..... ahhh ok, and makes sense what with the grip ahead of the reel.
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Ryan, what is it that makes the REVS610MXF blank not where you wanted to go with your drop shot build? The reason I ask is this .......earlier in this thread I spoke about building a rod on the RX9 Eternity version of that blank. Like you, I ordered a set of Fuji T2 black titanium SIC rings guides for the build, as well as a full length CFX rear grip for it. When I got the rod I wasn't happy with
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Patrick, that kind of service from VooDoo rods is more than outstanding as well. I've seen their name mentioned in numerous threads on this site. Gonna have to give them a try as well. We're lucky to have the list of sponsors that we have on this site. If one doesn't have it in stock, another just might. That was the case with the order I placed with Get Bit. I normally end up splitting an
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Curious about comfortable a seat like being talked about, would be. I would think hand contact with the threads wouldn't be that comfortable. One of those trade offs kind of things I suppose.
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Just wanted to send a shout out to one of the forum sponsors Get Bit Outdoors. I placed an order yesterday 1/18 at around 6:30 PM ET. It wasn't a large order, Just an order for a set of guides. I just checked my e mail, and had an e mail from them saying my order has shipped !!!! Less than 24 hours !!! Now if that isn't outstanding I don't know what is. Just want to say great job to
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Instead of Mud Hole, I would suggest you use another sponsor of this forum, Custom Fly Grips LLC. They are an excellent place to deal with, and have a pretty wide selection of rings as well as other materials to choose from. And if they have it in stock, it ships very fast, and at a reasonable price. Nothing against Mud Hole mind you, they're a great place to deal with. But materials for m
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Amen to what Norman and Tom said about the reverse pilot bits from Flex Coat. I started making my own cork grips a couple of years ago and had the same problem of slightly off center bores. As Norman said, pulse grabbing the grip helps quite a bit. But when you can bore the hole a lot closer to the OD of the rod blank, it makes the reaming process sooooo much better. I found that boring my c
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Norman, thank you for the response. Once again, and as always, very much appreciated. In an earlier post I talked about the spacing using the 5.5M as the third reduction guide, along with the 5.5L as the tall choke guide. Visually they bullseyed perfectly by placing the 20H and the 5.5L in the positions the KR software places the normal KR 20H, 10H, 5.5M grouping with a KB as the choke guide. To
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Something I should have done, but didn't, is take a look at the link Josh provided in his opening post. The guide sizes grouping for the taller choke guide set up in the KR concept have changed. And changed pretty drastically. The changes addresses what I was talking about in my most recent post about the height of the 3rd reduction guide being so much shorter than the 5.5M that is in the normal
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I agree with Tom, charge by the task. If you add up the actual hours involved in building a rod, not counting drying time for various epoxies and wrap finish, there isn't a lot of actual time spent building the rod. For me wrapping guides would be the most time consuming, and even at that, if it's a basic single color wrap, with no trim bands or inlays, you're talking maybe 5 - 7 minutes per guid
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Norman, once again, thank you for the response. Very much appreciated. First I need to make a correction to my prior post, It's a 7L and not a 7M that I am using as the third reduction guide in the one example I gave spacing for. So with that out of the way. The rod I taped the Am Tak guides to is my drop shot rod. It's built on a 6' 10" blank. From the butt of the rod to the spool axle
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Norman, thank you very much for the response. It is very much appreciated. I really want to try and make this taller choke guide work because as I mentioned above, I really think it's going to help with 10# fluorocarbon line. Every one of my spinning rods use the same KR guide group. 20H, 10H, and 5.5M so to play around with the taller choke guide, I just taped the 20H and the 5.5L opposite of
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Probably what Spencer is talking about. Just scroll down to near the bottom of the page.
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Josh, I hope you don't mind if I ask a few questions in your thread as well. There are a couple of threads that have run recently that have a 4 guide KR reduction train, and I want to try it on a rod I'm building right now. Since Norman is da man when it comes to the KR concept spinning guide trains I have some questions for him. Hope you don't mind. Norman, I ordered some of the American Tack
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Logan, I totally get you not being happy with a rod with an IP of 600, for popping a chatterbait out of weeds. It's the same as when you're needing to pop a lipless crankbait out of the weeds to trigger a strike. Simply pulling until it pops free doesn't generate the speed you need to clear the bait of weeds. So even though a 600 gram IP isn't necessarily horrible for chatterbaits, (my primary ch
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I'm going to be doing some more test wraps with a few new colors I've gotten recently. Also, we actually had sunny skies for part of this past weekend, so I took the rod I have the test wraps on, out into the sun to see what the colors will really look like when you're out fishing. I normally don't use different thread colors all that much. The majority of my wraps are black, or a silver smoke co
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You could always paint them and put a clear coat over them. I used to custom paint a lot of my hard baits, crankbaits, jerkbaits and the like. Createx is the brand of paint I used. It's water based and of course you'd want to airbrush it on, but they have some awesome color shifting paints. Once you paint something you let it dry, and then heat cure it. If I remember right you need 130 degree
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