I got two MB 725 C6O2 blanks in yesterday, and took some CCS numbers for them MB 725 X-ray C6O2 IP 712 grams AA 75.3 MB 725 X-ray C6O2 IP 699 grams AA 75.6
Forum: rodboard

About the only thing that's going to help with dealing with the rod flex is getting your rod supports closer together. Of course that's going to make working between them difficult, but that's kind of just something you have to deal with when working with very flexible tips. I've thought about making some kind of vertical stand that you could attach to your wrapper base that would support the
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Les, in the opening post of this thread I mentioned what you're asking whether I tried running a line from the reel through the 4 guides and seeing where it intersects the rod blank as a position to place the next guide in line. I did, and where the line intersected the rod blank was 4.25" further down the blank from the 6L. I only have the 4 guides positioned on the rod right now, so I have
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Personally, I use the definition from the glossary of what the choke guide is. There is another thread that hasn't had a post to it in a while, where it was said the choke guide is only the choke guide, if it's the smallest guide on the rod. That the choke guide by the definition in the glossary, should be the smallest guide on the rod. I don't personally buy that. To me it doesn't matter if the
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Norman, thank you for the response, It is greatly appreciated. And you are absolutely right about my mess up with the length of the RT using the chart in the link Michael Tarr provided. I added in another spacing number.. I can't believe I didn't catch that. 4 guides only have 3 spaces between them. Duh me on that one for sure.. I went ahead and switched to the 6M , 5.5L guides and used the s
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Michael, the objective of the taller choke guide is to aid leader knots passing through the guides, and to aid with casting light lures with stiffer line. As far as a 4 guide reduction train goes. According to the KR software text, the choke guide is included in the reduction train. So even if a KB were the choke guide, it is considered as part of the reduction train. So in the 20H, 10H, 7M, 6L,
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Could be a thread packing issue as well.
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Michael Danek, I'm not using the guide sizes that the KR software calls out for a standard KR guide train. I'm using the guide sizes recommended for a KR guide train using a taller choke guide. The third reduction guide and the choke guide have different heights than the guides in a standard KR guide train. If I place them where they're called out to go using the measurements for a standard KR gu
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Spencer, I appreciate the response. And I thought of that. But the last time I tried to really full cast a rod with the guides taped on, it didn't turn out well. That's why I said that I may have to actually wrap the guides so I can try making so really long casts. One nice thing ..... since it would just be for test casting purposes, I won't have to be super careful about all the stuff you'd
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First I would ask what you're mixing your epoxy with? When I first started out I used the same popsicle type sticks that I bought for mixing my Rod Bond epoxy. Now granted I wasn't experienced in mixing finish, but the popsicle stick made it hard not to introduce air into the mixture. I switched over to more or less lolly pop sticks that Mud Hole offers, and I introduced less air into the finish.
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I'm working on a KR concept guide train using a taller choke guide for a spinning rod I'm building. As was suggested in another thread where i asked questions about this type of set up, I place the 1st reduction guide, and the taller choke guide in the positions the KR software calls for them to be placed if using a standard KR guide train, where a KB would be the choke guide. I then placed the t
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Yep ..... normal. The motor got hot on the one I built using an the motor from an old microwave. And the motor gets hot on the drying motor on my power wrapper.
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I'm working on two builds right now, with one of them being on an SB 724 blank, and since I can't find the I messed up thread from a while back, I figured I post to this thread. What with it being a build on the same blank n all. LOL Anyhow....... I epoxied the polyurethane arbor in the reel seat last night, along with an Alps TRS trim ring that I like to use between the reel seat and rear gr
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Well .... the sun isn't going to be coming out here any time soon, So rather than delay posting more thread color, I did the best I could to get a better representation of what the final product will look like. From what I saw by taking my first offerings out into direct sunlight, the colors will brighten a bit. How much, will depend on the color. You also really don't get a feel for the richness
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Ken, I think you might have. I just pulled up the site and scrolled through..... not sure what you actually call it. The window where you can look at the different specials they may have. I didn't see the 25% off clearance promotion anymore.
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I'm posting a link to a picture of some thread colors that Ken Delbridge sent me. The way he displayed his, is the way I plan on posting the pictures I take. I want to thank Ken for going to the trouble of doing this kind of thing. Definitely an above and beyond the call of duty kind of thing in my book. Here is a link to what Ken provided. Thanks Ken, much appreciated. As you can see, Ke
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I've only made 5 cork grips thus far, but I've used a tool rest and chisel to turn all of them down. I have yet to have a problem with the cork getting ripped up to any great degree. It gets a little rough, but nothing troubling. At least not to me. I get it close with the chisel and finish up with various grits of sandpaper to get it to the OD I want, and to do any shaping. It's worked grea
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Ryan, he won't have any problem getting a replacement blank from Batson. I actually had a problem with the straightness of the RX9 ETES610MXF blank I have mentioned in this thread. They sent me a replacement without even needing to send them a picture. It was a no questions asked type of thing.
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Brent, good to hear.
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Ryan, send it back and have them send you another one. I've built on 3 Immortal blanks, and have never encountered what you described. Everyone of them have had a perfect finish on them. I actually would have suggested the Immortal version, as they are phenomenal blanks. Especially for their price point. But not everyone likes the color. I love it. And I hate to keep harping on rod power, but
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I use fluorocarbon line as the main line on my spinning gear, and I use the same size ring choke guide, as the ring size on the 3rd reduction guide. Which i my case makes the choke guide a 5.5 KB. I do this because a 5.5 is slightly taller, and I believe it helps with the stiffer fluorocarbon line that I use. The running guides I use are either size 5 or size 4.5 KT's
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I usually touch the ends of KBs and KTs with a file as well. Only takes a couple swipes and as Patrick said it makes a difference. At least to me.
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KB's also have wider feet. Depending on the OD of the tip where the last guide would go, the KB's foot may be wider than the diameter of the tip. I just measured the width of the foot of a KB 5.5. The foot is a few thousandths wider than 5/64s. That could very well make it a no go for blanks with tips of 4.5 or under. It just depends on the taper of the blank, and the distance from the tip of the
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Norman ......
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From my understanding of what I've read from Angler's Resource, the tall choke guide came out of needing to help leader knots "turn the corner" more easily. One of the diagrams I've looked at depicting the tall choke guide as well as the standard KB choke guide, is dated as being revised on 5/3 2022. And I am using the terminology that Angler's Resource is using in their diagrams. S
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Tom, I haven't read the article you said the definition of choke guide in the glossary, was taken from. The reason I am having difficulty completely buying into what you're saying about the choke guide being the smallest or same size as the running guides, is due to what I've been reading from Angler's Resource, (Fuji) in regards to their, I guess fairly new concept, of using a taller choke guid
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The following is a copy and paste directly from this forums glossary. Choke Guide: Part of the "New Guide Concept System." The guide located at that point along the blank where a line drawn from the reel spool centerline will intersect the rod blank.
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I just finished up watching the Q $ A session with Mr Loomis in the link that Alex provided. While much of it was interesting to me, one particular part of it I found ... puzzling. And that is that a rod not built in line with the stiffest axis of the rod, will not cast as accurately. What I found puzzling, was the rational behind that belief. With all due respect to Mr Loomis, I say belief, beca
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I agree with Evan's use of words, "the choke guide can be the same size as the remainder of the running guides", It doesn't necessarily have to be. In a KR concept guide train, where the choke guide is either a KB or KT guide. I use a KB with the same size ring as the 3rd reduction guide's ring size. I do this because I use fluorocarbon line as the main line on spinning rods, and I
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David, if you're speaking about the Forged Steel color in the pictures I linked in the opening post, I totally agree. I love the color under the LED lighting from the light over my wrapping table. Then I took that rod outside into direct sunlight. In direct sunlight it looks nothing like it does under the LED lighting. It's much brighter. It's actually not a whole lot darker than it looks on the
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