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Results 1 - 30 of 43
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
I just built a heavy spinning rod with Torzite for fishing with shiners for bass in heavy cover, using braid. Torzite was noticeably smoother casting, and the T/b combination has a very distinct sound when a heavy fish is running line under heavy strain. Casting is okay - this is not surf casting - the line plays out smoothly and I find it easier to throw a heavy bait. Not so much energy to la
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Which raises the question - why use "micros" (which I don't think you are actually using)? Especially on a medium heavy blank. I would think blank loading paramount here since heavier strain is anticipated, so higher guides would be used to keep the line off the blank, especially braid. If you are talking spinning, it's not as critical, but for casting rub is an issue. An important
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
So to push this topic further - exactly what are the different CPs? Those I've used were water soluble or non-water soluble. Specifically, what are their chemical names? After we identify them, then we could ask a chemist how we might make them work with silicon-impregnated thread. Also, I'm intrigued by the notion of putting silicon thread in the mixing cup. Do you mean in a bottle of CP,
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
David, Glad you stepped in! My interest is - after practicing a pattern four times before final wrap, and seeing it in glorious sheen, it would be nice to capture the moment..... Phil
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Frank and John, I created a model in Excel that calculates spacing - for at two-axis (0 and 180 degree) pattern, based on the Clemens formula. Works perfectly for square patterns. It provides dimensions for top and bottom centers, and allows for wrap-off. All that's necessary is to measure the butt/mid/tip diameters and enter into the model. The centers are calculated. It also allows for
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Can you tell me more about the emulator? Would it impact other software or OS operability in any way?
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Fred, Tom, and Chad, Thanks for your viewpoints. I guess the silicon/CP incompatibility is the crux of the problem since the luster remains muted even after addition of epoxy. If only a way to get around this, thread art would take on a new dimension. Thanks again. Phil
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Dave, Do you see making VisualWRAP for OS X Yosemite (v 10.10) for iMac? Apple's screen is incredible for colors and fine granularity - especially good for zooming in to see thread patterns. R, Phil
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Recently, I did a double out wrap with Madeira Polyneon thread. The pattern was incredible - the metallic luster of the thread simply jumped off the blank. But when I put the color preserver on, that luster was considerably lost. Sad. The wrap still looks okay, but how to preserve that metallic luster of the thread? Appreciate any suggestions.
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
After logging in, I go to the photos section, then thread art. When I click "Next," I get the same series off photos. Does anybody know what is going on here?
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Ken, I found a picture in the Mud Hole catalog. You have to rethread the tensioner each time you run a different color? What are the plastic spacers for? Did you modify it in any way? Wonder if it would be possible to stack tensioners somehow. I thought I could use sewing machine bobbins, so I filled three on my wife's sewing machine. Busted! The I.D. is too small to fit the shaft! I
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
I have an American power wrapper and the thread axles on the carriage are not long enough to hold a Madeira spool. What do you guys do? Rethread on an old wood spool? Use a sewing machine bobbin? Seems for as nice a lathe as this, they would have thought of accommodating larger thread spools. And too four spools. Has someone released a retro kit with longer axles? Or is there a nicer carri
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Thanks everyone for your help. I made a makeshift (I lost my old tapered reamers somewhere) ream by spiraling course emery clothe on a straight tube and reamed the grip to fit. Worked out okay - arms got sore. Got the fit to within four inches and when I pushed, it slid in place. Like Fred said, the gel epoxy made it an easy push. Thanks again guys.
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
I have an 11" X 5/8" rear grip (actual I.D. is .641") to push on a blank with a butt end diameter of .712" - a total stretch of .071". The total push, from where the grip gets tight, to the butt cap which is already in place, is 14". Is there a way to soften the EVA enough to make the push? Years ago, I sprayed WD-40 into preformed hypalon and had no trouble pu
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Thanks, Don. pjhageman@comcast.net
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Thanks, Billy. I'm getting ready to do the Out and Out (page 62 - I did an earlier thread about this wrap) with fades on the cross and both boxes - like one you posted using red and blue. I'm using the same yellow-red fade for box 1, but will use a light gray to black for box 2. This being my first attempt at the out and out, I did four practice wraps before I got it right. It will be on a su
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Is Dale's equation the same a Billy's equation on, page 3? I'm not familiar with Dale's equation. How do you use the circle template?
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Sandy, Thanks for your reply. Presume you slip the circle template over the blank, using a circle diameter that will seize somewhere on the dec wrap filed, and then mark the zero and 180 (without moving the template). This would require the dec wrap be made prior to installing the stripper and choking guides. Is this your thinking? Any advice on keeping the seams straight?
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Sophisticated closed dec wraps, like Billy Vivona's double out (page 62 of his book) present a particularly important challenge - aligning the top (0-degree) and bottom (180-degree) sides of the blank when laying out the pattern. If they are not within a degree or so, the pattern will not close properly - even presuming you can push the threads in to alignment (likely you will get crooked seams)
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Will continue studying the book and your answers. Thanks much for taking time with me. I've done some analysis using Excel and am trying to make correlations among the various charts in the book. Very interesting and informative. If interested, once I get it all figured out, I can either post to this site (does it accommodate attachments?) or send to you direct. I have created a spreadsheet
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Billy, Some questions: 1.) On your wrap mentioned above, how many passes and threads on the boxes? The picture gets too fuzzy when I expand it on my computer screen - can 't count them. 2.) Did you use three colors for the cross and both boxes? 3.) Re page 82: On the Out Out spacing chart. I don't understand what A & B = 2.5mm, and B & C = 11mm means.
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Thanks, guys. Will give it a try - if it looks presentable, I'll post a picture. Plan to use black, red, and gold. Will try the fades. Wish me luck, this is my first for this pattern.
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
In the photos section of this site I found a dec wrap I really want to do - it's by Billy Vivona. I purchased his book "Decorative Wraps," but can't figure out which wrap it is. It looks like a St. Johns cross variant with fading techniques. Does anyone know the sequence of threads to create this wrap? Here is the URL of the wrap in question:
Forum: rodboard
9 years ago
Phil Hageman
Want to use Fuji's new Titanium Torzite guides on a medium-heavy weight spinning rod using a 9-foot MHX Euro Catfish Rod Blank, 10/64 tip, with 40# braid. Would like to use single-foot guides, but wonder if they could hold up under the pressure of a 15# fish being fought with heavy strain. Plan to use an "MN" tang-type tip, which should easily stand up to side/torque loads if the rod
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Phil Hageman
Re: Billy Vivons's book "Decorative Wraps." In the illustration on page 49 for the St. Johns Cross, color variation, it looks like the (A) instruction is reversed, when compared with the schematic. The white threads appear on top of the grey threads, which means the grey threads were pulled first, then the white threads over them. The white/grey box IN and black box OUT appear to ag
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Phil Hageman
Call me all thumbs, but there must be a proven way to hold small single-foot guides (6mm and smaller) tightly on a blank so the thread will climb on to the foot. The only thing I've found is to use a narrow strip of masking tape, less than 1/8th inch. Problem is, when working toward the tip, where the blank diameter is nearly the same as guide foot width, the tape doesn't hold the guide tight
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Phil Hageman
Thanks guys, appreciate the good advice - gets my feet on the ground. Did a two-axis (0 and 180 degree) pinwheel dec wrap on this rod, plus it's my first time with Polyneon, so I don't want to take any chances - will apply three coats CP. Again, thanks for the help.
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Phil Hageman
Using Madeira Polyneon 40 with ChromaSeal CP. Intend to finish with Flex Coat. Two questions - how many coats of CP and, how long to dry before applying the Flex Coat?
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Phil Hageman
Is it recommended to put color preserver on guide underwraps before wrapping on the guides, and dec wrap underwrap before wrapping the thread design?
Forum: rodboard
10 years ago
Phil Hageman
Billy, On the "Screwdriver Wrap," how many colors did you use? Madeira - do you separate individual threads from the yarn or use it straight off the spool? BTW, I have your book on the way to me. Looking forward to it!
Forum: rodboard
Pages: 12Next
Current Page: 1 of 2

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