Here is the handle - burl, regular cork, foam trim and rubberized cork gasket material. Batson woven graphite reel seat, and a chain winding check. Nothing groundbreaking, but I'm getting better at this!
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Here is a Grizzly hackle feather - another identical, 180 degrees opposite. Also have rod specs and my waterslide on there on the 90 and 270 axis...
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Well, here's my first photo post! 8'6" 5wt Rainshadow for a donation to a church fundraiser @#$%&. Here is the Batson folding hookkeeper - very nice!
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Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil.
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Made in America - that's a GOOD thing!
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yeah, sorry - sometimes just can't help myself... :-)
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Obviously there is a problem that needs solving here, hence the need to reverse rotation of the dryer on a timed basis. So, why not take it one step (or 3 steps) farther and design in a laser distance measuring device that will measure the distance from a known point to all points on the wrap finish as it rotates. One could calculate the taper of the rod/thread/finish width and adjust for it ea
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How do the flexcoat pilot bits work on cork - do they cut cleanly? I just imagine them tearing the cork up. Does anyone use the reverse pilot flexcoat bits to ream?
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Russell - don't buy into the 'braid needs a slow rod' hype - I don't buy that one, and I think you'd have to be Kevin Van Damme to realize any difference there.
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Marc - are you having issues with them? I have used the Minimas on some ice rods, but no open water stuff yet - although I've been considering trying them for a couple bass rods for a friend.
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This is a GREAT topic - I hope all builders on this board read it!!! Bill NAILED it.
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another reason to beat myself up for letting my subscription lapse for awhile!! Thanks - you gave me some good ideas... I may have to pick up that back issue...
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Tom - can you share what you use for a leash attachment point? I'm getting ready to build a kayak rod or two, and I've been trying to think of a good leash attachment mechanism.
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If it's available in your area, go harvest yourself! (PLEASE from dead trees only!!!) - I've found it to be, well, VERY expensive no matter where I've looked. Obviously, if you are not in birch country this is not an option :-(
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Bloxygen.
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My guess is that builder used Rodbond or similar, and a bit of 'marketing' to sell you on the strength...
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cool idea - a rod tube makes much more sense than a rod tub :-) I'd love to see a pic - I'm about to start a rod for a friend who fishes some heavy duty brush streams in the UP of Michigan - give him a collapsable rod tube to go along would be cool :-)
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I've found popping blanks to work very well for crankbait applications - they seem to bridge the gap between too fast and too moderate. I think alot of the 'crankbait' blanks offered can be too moderate in action - not everyone has the reactions of a tournament bass fisherman....
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Marc, I prefer a winding check or sometimes will use silver or gold chain (cheaper stuff works just fine), that I carefully cut and place with a little CA glue. I'm working on a 7'6" musky rod to donate to the Arbor Vitae-Woodruff Education Foundation fundraising event right now. It's a split grip and I put regular nurled nickel checks on, the wrapped a short run of black, followed by my
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I was thinking the #25 should be about right - I've tended my guides downwards, typically a 20 or 25 works for me with a 2000 class reel. 2.54 cm per inch :-)
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Yep, Elmers Golden Oak.
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Yep - a ton of different products - several would seem to have rodbuilding applications!
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Bill - easiest way to find it is on a popular internet @#$%& site. According to the description, it will do anything including your taxes and make you breakfast - that's why I'm trying to find out what it's actually good for :-) I wonder how it would be for a on the lathe applied finish for handles, etc - sounds like it could be very good for that!
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Thanks Jeff, I would imagine using linseed oil or similar to pop the grain before finishing with the Max - similar to any other poly or lacquer. So did the Max Seal produce a good quality finish, or was it lumpy/uneven/ugly/etc ?
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I'm thinking about buying some Max Seal as a finish for some of my wood turning projects as well as top coating jigs, etc - also I know Ken Preston uses it as a CP (thinned). Has anyone tried it as a thread finish? It would be nice to be able to use it for several different applications. Similarly, would it work well for the carbon grips?? I'd really like to find a good non yellowing one pa
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I don't know about that one - a 4 1/2 angle grinder generates a suprising amount of torque - at least my Makita does. I wouldn't mount it to a flimsy little stand without donning a flack jacket and kevlar helmet...
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Jeremy - the guys fishing fats in 250-300 FOW the Apostle Islands are moving from the old school wire line/hoop setups over to braid and baitcaster/rod equipment. Powerpro in 30-50lb test has virtually zero stretch - you won't lose anything on the hookset compared to wire - and it doesn't freeze up nearly as badly as some will lead you to believe. Try it, I think you'll like it! Yep - fats w
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Jeremy - go with the advice of the others here, locate a glass blank and cut it down to 42" or so. You want a powerfull action but not a pool cue... I built a laker rod similar a few years ago for a trip to the Apostle Islands - Chequamegon Bay area. 42" long baitcaster, spiral wrapped. I ran 50lb PowerPro braided and it is a great rod. The big thing is to make sure you make the but
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St Croix stopped selling their seconds to rodbuilders a few years ago after they started showing up on a popular online @#$%& site. You more than likely won't be buying brand new blanks at 1/2 price... You will find a nice tackle shop with fully new warranted rods as well as seconds/returned rods that have been rehabbed. If you are lucky you will find some 1/2 off blanks in a barrel - last time
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Keep using the Forhan wrap - and if your guides come with the little flange on the foot - grind it off when you do your guide prep! You get a much claner looking wrap that way - and the Forhan wrap gives the strength you need.
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