Hey guys,

Probably discussed before but I couldnt find anything using the search function.

I'm currently reaming cork by hand. A. using a reamer from MudHole and B. slowly with drill bits.

Couple things happen here.

- The reamer from MudHole isnt big enough to make the hole sizes I need for the butt section and sometimes I get splitting when applying the cork. I know I can just get bigger reamers but I dont want to invest in something that I will need to manicure (replace the sandpaper) over and over again.

- When I go in with a drill bit to get a bigger I.D it sometimes creates wobbly hole and the cork isnt centered perfectly.

I dont have a lathe and was wondering what you guys use to ream out cork by hand.

Thanks for your time.

Adam-

Look at Flex Coat's "How we do it" videos:

Making a power reamer: [www.flexcoat.com]


Building a preshaped cork handle: [www.flexcoat.com]

These tell you how to keep your holes center.

Thats the stuff! Excellent videos.

Thank you!

I'm assuming you don't take RodMaker. If you ever get ahold of any of those coarse-cut files we showcased you'll be knocking out those grips in about a minute flat. They cut the heck out of cork in just a few strokes.

Even better, a set of the Flex Coat Reverse Pilot Bits, which you can make yourself (instructions also in RodMaker from Roger himself) will enlarge cork to the needed diameter in single pass, and leave the bore concentric to boot. After that, you have very minimal reaming to do in order to match the blank taper.

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Tom,

The coarse- cut files must be covered in back issues?

Link to where I can see them?

Thanks!

I finally bought the Batson dream reamer, the whole kit, and I will never look back. Worth it, even if I have to replace sandpaper. So easy to use. That Flex Coat video looks great, too.

Greg

Adam:

First off, don't force the cork down on the blank. You don't want to clean all of the glue off the blank/cork. Forcing the cork down will cause splitting of the cork. I have a set of reamers that are made from pieces of rod blank with grit glued on them (FlexCoat). I have been using these for 20+ years, and they are still working. I know that this is the old slow method, but then again, I am old an slow guy.

Mike Bradfrod
R.M.B. Fishing Rods
Nampa, Idaho

Adam,
I have tried using sand paper or grit coated reamers but never liked them very much.
Rather, I use a hand held variable speed, reversible electric drill to hold various sizes of either round tapered files, reverse pilot bits. machinest reamers, or aircraft extension bits of appropriate sizes.

Using combinations of these tools, along with 2 or 3 drills so that I don't have to change bits when changing tools, I can generally ream out a handle in a couple of minutes.

If you would like further comments, pictures or to ask a question; just drop me an e-mail at

hflier@comcast.net

Take care
Roger

The two things that have made my life much better when it comes to grips...

#1 - Predrilling rings to just under the blank diameter.

#2 - The set of reamers I made.

And...a close third...Flexcoat pilot bits. This would be numer one if I wasn't predrilling rings before glue up.


I've purchased reamers, including the Dream Reamer kit. But my favorite ones are ones I made. I purchased two scrap rod blanks and a half a dozen closeout ice rod grips. I cut the blanks into staggered 18" lengths. That way, when I ream all the way up to the grip on one reamer, the next size reamer fits inside the grip several inches. All my sizes overlap well. And my biggest reamer is about 28" and will do some very long grips. I wrapped thin masking tape around the tip and then spiraled a line up to the ice rod grip. Coated with a high strength epoxy and grit. Unmasked and let cure.

As far as I'm concerned, eliminating as much reaming as possible is the way to go. And quality reamers make quick work of what little you do have to ream.




................................................

Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

Thank you everyone for the responses. You've saved me quite a bit of time!

Adam-

Mud holes adhesive strips work very well. Don't use the grit. it will come off the reamer and stay in side the cork and scratch the blank as you slide it down it.

make your own reamers with them and pieces of scrap blanks
I take correct sizes of other blanks and glue them inside the reamer so they fit my drill chuck when the reamer is to large to fit it.

Bill - willierods.com

How do the flexcoat pilot bits work on cork - do they cut cleanly? I just imagine them tearing the cork up. Does anyone use the reverse pilot flexcoat bits to ream?

Rich,
I think that any cutting bit will rip and tear cork a bit.
The big advantage of the flex coat pilot bits, by feeding the shaft of the bit through the cork before drilling, is that the hole in the grip stays centered.

Although the bits cut relatively cleanly, there is always a chance that they might chunk out a piece of grip at the edge of the hole.

As a result of this possibility and what I found when doing some test boring, is that I NEVER use a cutting bit for out outside edge of the grip hole.

Rather, I will use a reamer, to get the first 1/8th - 1/4 inch of hole reamed cleanly and to size. I use a caliper to measure the blank at the position of the particular hole to be reamed.
Then, I ream the end of the grip to that exact hole size. I flip the grip around, measure the blank for that end of the grip and then ream the grip to the exact hole size.

I will now select a reverse pilot bit that just fits - with no cutting action into the smaller hole. Then, I drill 1/2 way through the grip.
I will now flip the grip around, select a pilot bit to just fit into the reamed hole without touching the clean edge. Now, I will slip the bit through the grip, and drill the grip out 1/2 way.

Now, use the reamer to clean up the little bit of residual internal grip material that you need to have the handle have a nice fit on the blank.

Take care
Roger