I know on @#$%& I've seen Celtic knot style buttons and rings - maybe incorporate a button into the grip endcap, or a ring for a winding check?
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Andy - I just tried your website again, and I'm getting the same "closed until June 1st" page coming up. Glad to hear you are back up and running!!!
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Bob - thanks for the info - I would be VERY interested in seeing the spreadsheet. Can you mail it to: richard.handrick@dot.state.wi.us Thanks alot!!
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It does cast well - I stuck a 1/4 oz lead on it (couldn't find anything lighter) and my first cast spooled the reel (4lb test) Won't be fishing 1/4 lures on this rod, but it was fun to load the thing up :-)
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Sounds good Tom - thanks for the clarification. I will drop one of the size 7 guides, and start them 4 inches behind the tip, space progressively. I wish I had all size 6's for the small guides, but I bought them in a bag at the St. Croix factory - I'd order more 6's, but the shipping would kill me :-) Does the 30" from the tip sound like a "fairly typical" location for the firs
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Well, I searched the archives and can't find the answer, so I'm starting another thread on this topic - here it goes! My blank is a 6'6" light action Forecast two piece - I have alconite guides, 25/16/12/7/7/7/6/6/6. Using an Okuma Avenger AV-15 reel, I set up the rod and the butt guide ends up at about 18 inches from the reel (49" from the tip), while the first size 7 is at 30&quo
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Mo, I built my own wrapper based on the article found in the "library" (black links on top of this page). Very inexpensive and easy to do with minimal tools required. You could easily build it with a simple hand saw and a drill. Also has more adjustability than the one you found on @#$%&.
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Thanks all for the replies - Mark, I like the Blue Dun with Garnet trim idea - I'll be playing around with that one for sure. And you are right - if I don't like it, I can snip it off and start over!
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Well, my addiction is in full swing. I'm building a 6'6" UL spin rod on a 2003 Forecast blank - it is the blueish/greenish/tealish colored blank. Anyways - I figured I might as well bite off more than I can chew right away and try a feather inlay. I have some pheasant feathers that are nice, but was wondering if anyone has suggestions for other feathers they have used on this blank a
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Tom, I'm glad to hear that you use a 1" belt sander for guide prep. I have one of these that I use for golf club building (yes, I like to build stuff), and I figured that it would work well for guide work.
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I have very limited knowledge of the Classic Coat - have used it exactly once. For what it's worth, I found it similar to Flexcoat, but it seems easier to use and the finish is fantastic - very clear. It leveled very nicely. It does take a bit longer to set, but that is not a concern to me. I guess if you have a rodbuilding business that would be an important consideration. Have not used the
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Thanks for all the help guys! - I have a musky rod repair that I will probably be finished wrapping tonight, might be able to get the finish on - now I have several methods of tunnel filling to muse over...
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I was just searching through the archives for some info on Classic Rod Coat epoxy finish. I have finished some sample wraps with the Classic, and like it very much - better than FC I think (in my very limited experience). Anyways, I noticed a couple people talking about filling the guide tunnels with epoxy - as if it's a totally separate operation from applying finish to the guide wrap. I have
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Quick question for someone with more knowledge than me (that would be everybody else on this board :-) I'm looking at the following two Pac Bay reel seats for my 8'6" 4wt Forecast - can anyone give me any insight into which is more suitable for this rod weight? The fly rod reel seat nomenclature is confusing! Also, any differences in quality between these two? Thanks alot! Pac Bay U
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John - that is the concern I'm having as well, the inherent whippiness of an 1/8" mandrel. I'm thinking/hoping though, that with such short handles (approx 5 inches), I can keep mandrel length quite short and hopefully it will work ok. How do you like the Jann's graphite handles? I'm not too fond of the St. Croix Avid handles - love the blank, don't care for the handle (or the handle on
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Ok, I have been doing some reading, and I understand the "cork issue" as it pertains to a lack of quality cork, the new cork grading scale, etc. Here is my question: I'm building some high end ice fishing rods, and want short grips (4-5 inches in length). The blanks I have are 1/8" diameter at the bottom - so I'm looking to buy cork with a 1/8" diameter hole. Only stuff
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Thanks everybody for all the help. Tom - can't believe I didn't think to simply email Batson!!
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I just received my first two rod blanks - both Forecast - one is an 8'6" 4wt, the other a 6'6" UL spinning. They are 2003 blanks, teal in color. My question is this: How far should the male end seat on the female end of the blank sections? They seem to seat at least two inches or so to become "seated". Is this normal? Also, how far should I really wrap the female ferrule
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How about the Batson or Amtak single foot fly guides - how do these compare in weight to the alconite? Basically, I'm not sure if I'll keep this rod or sell it (or give it to a relative, etc.) - so I want to stay with one model guide for aesthetics. I have decided on probably ceramic - so I am looking for the lightest ceramic I can get without breaking the bank! Titans are still a possibility
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Ok - that Grizzley lathe looks just like what I'm looking for - is there a 3 or 4 leg self centering chuck available for a drill with this setup?
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I'm awaiting arrival of a forecast 4wt fly rod blank - can't WAIT ! Will be my first fly rod build, second rod build overall. Would you recommend single foot ceramic type fly guides, or will they be too heavy for a 4wt rod? I understand the desire to keep the line away from the blank, and would prefer to use these guides if possible - probably Fuji Alconites, although I'm also kicking around Am
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Thanks everyone for all the help - I sure appreciate it! Just curious on exactly what the difference will be on CP vs. no CP - does no CP turn all thread transparent - or does in depend on the original color of the thread? Any general guidelines on what looks good with vs. without CP?
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Hi all, I just ordered a couple of the 2003 holdover blanks from Neal's Fishing Products - by the way, AWESOME guy to work with, he was very patient with all my newbie questions and multiple emails!!!! Thanks Neal! Anyways, the blanks are a 8'6" 4wt fly and a 6'6" UL spinning rod, both in the dark blue color. Does anyone have any suggestions for thread colors that work well wi
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thanks Tom and Bruce - both good suggestions, I will have to try both and see which I prefer. Tom, do you have an online source to show how to do a Forhan locking wrap?
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I'm looking for a source of little rod tips - about a size 2.5 or so. I know Jann's Netcraft has size 2.0 microlite tops, but they are not quite what I'm looking for. The smalllest fly rod tops I can find are a 3.5. I like to build custom ice fishing rods, and most of the solid carbon graphite ice blanks have small tips - 2-2.5-3.0, etc. Does anybody have a source or any ideas for me? Thank
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Thanks Gerry - that's the kind of info I was looking for. I've used 5 minute style waterproof epoxy for my first rod, as well as ice fishing rods I've built, but it sounds like the U-40 or equivolent is easier to work with.
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Thanks everybody for all the help - it's nice to see how willing you are to help out a new guy! Joe - I checked out your article,and it was very good info - thanks alot. Rest assured, I plan on using this rod for as long as it holds up, I'm sure many walleye and smallmouth will come as a result. I do have one more question - do most of you use rod bond such as the U40, which I understand i
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My first post got deleted - I did not adhere to the forum rules - sorry Tom! Ok, I just completed my first rod - 7' ML action spinning rod built on a St. Croix blank. Needless to say I'm addicted to this fantastic hobby, even after only one rod. I found a LOT of things to improve on for my next rod - but my main problem is that I ended up with bubbles in my guide wrap finish, and I didn't not
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