Good to hear. Thanks, Tom. Craig
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I found and backed this Kickstarter by Gary Loomis. I'm signed up for a 4wt blank that I will build for myself. This will be the most expensive blank I've built by a wide margin. My experience is limited (~15 graphite fly rods in the last five years). I build blanks to fish or give to friends and family. Would appreciate any thoughts you might have on this blank and how the process migh
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Lamiglas was unable to find a replacement for the section I broke. Dillan's assessment was that the blank had been crushed, wraps were not too tight or loose. While no door crush was involved, I have a couple of ideas of when the crush might have occurred. Thanks again for the input. Craig
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Bill, Your input on this forum has been a big part of my learning over the past five years since I built my first fly rod. Thank you for that. In your post above are you suggesting that this is not a place where I should be learning about building rods? Craig
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I'm not going to do that.
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What's door damage?
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Thank you, Tom. I will look for this pin the future.
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Dillan at Lamiglas sounded dubious but said he'd look for the section I need if I bring the rod in. Todd, if you could take a look and see if you have that blank or at least the middle section, I'd love to know I had another option to keep this rod alive. Won't be able to get up to Woodland for a couple weeks minimum. Regarding wrapping tight enough, what is the best practice to ensure my
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Nice luck there. The rod was new old stock a couple years ago at Angler's Workshop in Woodland, WA. I was VERY disappointed that they closed their shop. I assume that Lure Parts Online bought them since they share an online store. We lost a huge resource for rodbuilders in the NW when they closed. I've only found one review of this ultra-fast rod online. I doubt they sold many. Hopefully
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Thanks, Herb. I knew better than to try to break it off with the rod. Now I know better than to fish with a rod finished with CP only. The thread is size A nylon, btw. Craig
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The only finish was CP. It is likely that I scored the blank.
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I have been fishing with my recent build of a Lamiglas Appalachian AT803 rod. Thanks to those who helped me with needed input on the grip and wraps. Today I broke it trying to get my fly out of a bush. Wasn't a herculean effort to get the 6x tippet to snap but the rod snapped with the tippet. See below: At first I thought I'd scored the blank with a sharp edge on the underside of my gui
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Great information as always. Thank you.
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Thanks Tom and Marty for your quick input. I only burnished the threads where there were gaps. This large wrap was my first on the rod so I am sure how tight the threads were packed from the start, especially under the hook keeper, was all over the place. There is certainly a chance that I'll finish this up as-is. If I were to remove this large wrap, what to do with the blank to prep
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An unevenness showed up in the largest wrap on my rod after the first coat of color preserver (U-40 color lock 2). Does not show so much in the photos but here are a couple: I proceeded to put two more applications of color preserver on, expecting that the thread that was lighter had not soaked up its share and the color would even out. It did not even out. Two questions: 1. If I
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I appreciate all the input as I am learning something new.
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Great information, Roger. Thank you. I will cut the composite end and one cork ring off and remake the back before reboring the countersink. I made a second one (below, left) based on the same shape but made it a little slighter than the other and the cork was a lower grade requiring a lot of filler: Before repairing the first grip, since it feels perfect in my hand, I photocopied an
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The outside only has a slight cut in it. Even a contrasting substrate/filler would not look out of place as the cut is so narrow. Would cork plus wood shavings be flexible? I'm concerned that, when I route this/counterbore with the Crafty Cutter, the difference in material hardness will cause problems. Also, if it is not flexible, having a rock hard substrate below such a thin wall of cork wou
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The right tools are great and necessary for most money making concerns. For personal work I usually jury rig first then, when I fail (as I have here), make the investment.
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I suppose that wrapping with painters tape to 1 1/2" down would make it less critical to get an exact hole size in the fixture and reduce the number of 2x4 fixtures needed but getting the right tool seemed appropriate after ruining this grip and not wanting to repeat the same mistake.
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Thanks, Mike. I did change the bit to one more appropriate to the job and, after botching my last cut with it, considered a custom-cut wood fixture for each grip but even then measuring the exact diameter was going to be a pain. Getting the Crafty Cutter, despite my desire to avoid the cost, seemed like the best use of my time and money.
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Do you do this before boring out grips with a similar wall thickness around the counter bore as shown here? Is this more necessary when using a Crafty Cutter than when using a sharp CNC router bit? Deformation was a factor with this failed cut in that I pushed the base of the grip, where I was making the counter bore, against my router stop fixture. I was lucky not to have cut into my thum
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Thanks, John. That does sound like a better way to salvage this grip. How would you temporarily reinforce the grip before boring?
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I assembled my first cork grip from rings this week. Everything was going splendidly until I went to enlarge the reel inset using a CNC router bit on a router table and moved my stop too far I've ordered a Crafty Cutter to avoid this problem in the future. In the meantime, is there a wood filler that will bond to the paper thin cut of my cork that I can fill the inset with then bor
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Yes. Tip over butt.
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I'm glad my predicament was clear to you, Russ. I'm not about to criticize those who are pitching in to help, however. I have a habit of including far too much detail which can be even more confusing than too little. Working on paring down my written communications to just enough. All input is appreciated. Bill, I am collecting permagloss projects before I open a bottle and get started. I
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Roger, in this case, I would need to strip everything BUT the male joint which is definitely an option to keep the rod length and ensure the ferrule will fit as it does now. I think I'll measure the diameter on a part of the section I have to cut off anyhow, strip it and compare it's pre-stripped diameter to it's post-stripped diameter. If it's more than three or four thousandths smaller, whic
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I'm looking to strip a factory painted blank section and want to know how much smaller the male ferrule will be after I strip it with Citristrip.
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I used the wrong term. Not finish as in thread finish but paint, as in the paint on the blank.
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I have a blank section, with a painted finish, that is the right diameter at the male ferrule to replace the second section up in a four piece Lamiglas rod. The rod where the replacement section is needed is unfinished. As a general rule, how much thickness does a coat of finish add to a blank? This is part of my long quest to resurrect my favorite fly rod, an XMG 905 travel rod after brea
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