That's a good tip. Thanks, Yancy.
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Thanks, Tom. I wrapped it by hand and was applying pretty aggressive pressure. It was a 4 axis wrap on a large diameter rod. It contracted like a Chinese finger trap when I cut those tags. I'll try going lighter on the tension next time.
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I've recently started playing around with decorative wraps. I just tried to tie off my first attempt at a basic chevron. I started the first tie off with what I think was pretty good thread tension. I gave it at least 10 wraps before I started cutting the tags. When I cut through the last tag threads, the entire wrap contracted up the blank and took the tie off wraps with it. The pattern stayed p
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Thanks so much, Tom. I didn't even know that site existed.
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The company I work for is considering getting a custom fly rod built as a retirement gift. I've built a few rods but I'm not qualified to build a fly rod. So I have agreed to help find someone in the area that can get the job done. Any suggestions for experienced builders in central North Carolina would be much appreciated.
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I'm very much a beginner but here's my advice: Don't get discouraged. Epoxy is not easy, especially the first few times. You'll get better and figure out what works for you. After the epoxy is applied don't just walk away and forget it. Check it every 15 - 20 minutes to see if bubbles are appearing for the first hour or so. If they are you can usually bust them by blowing through a coff
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In this case, using American Tackle acrylic CP, 2 1/2 hours dry time, climate controlled environment and VERY thin applications of CP it came out perfectly well. No problems at all.
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Epoxy applied. So far so good.
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Thanks for the help. I'll give it a few hours and see how it turns out. I'm building it for myself so that lessens the risk a bit.
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acrylic.
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If it helps, I'm in an air conditioned house. approx. 70 degrees and 35% humidity. Also, the wraps are mostly black with a couple slim metallic trim bands. Nothing overly colorful or detailed.
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I'm using American Tackle CP on some guide wraps. The bottle says the dry time is one hour and I have never had a problem waiting an hour between CP applications. However, I usually let it dry overnight before applying epoxy. Is this necessary? If I wait a couple hours after the last coat of CP will it be safe to apply epoxy?
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I picked up this tip from a guy on another forum. It worked well for me. Apply double sided tape to the area you are covering. Fold up one end of the xflock to seal it and pour in a little denatured alcohol. Shake it around in the tube and dump it out. Immediately slide the tube onto the rod. This will help the x flock to slide easily over the double sided tape. Let it dry for 5 - 10 minut
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Thanks for all the replies.
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jody, > If your rod has a butt diameter of 1 inch, the 1 > inch butt cap would fit just fine. > > If you have not done the handle, yet, a cleaner > installation is to spin the butt grip in a lathe, > drill press or with a hand drill and then cut a > mortise at the end of the rod to ac
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I'm about to build my first large surf "heaver" rod. The rod is a 13' Century C3. The diameter at the butt end is about exactly 1". I plan to put shrink wrap on the butt section and then apply a rubber butt cap over the wrap. My question is would a butt cap with 1" ID stretch enough to fit over the blank and the wrap or would I be better off going with a larger ID?
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I'll take a look. Thanks.
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I'm pretty new at this so you lost me with CCS. If it's something I can do easily I'll gladly give it a shot but I'll need an explanation. Also, I am building this as a spinning outfit, not a fly rod.
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I picked up the 6' 2 piece at the expo. I'm just starting to build it so I can't offer much input. I will say that I wouldn't call the action fast.... it's more of a moderate action. It seems to have decent backbone for such a lightweight rod.
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That makes a lot of sense. I should have given this thread more time before I placed my order last night!
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I don't know much about Tennessee handles as I'm pretty new at rod building. I'll look into that for future builds though. I ended up ordering one of the Pac Bay Dynawood seats. I like the way they look and they had a slightly smaller ID than some of the other seats. Thanks again for the advice.
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Thanks for the replies.
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I am about to build my first super light freshwater rod. The few rods I have built so far have been saltwater rods. This is a 6' rod with crappie fishing in mind. The blank diameter at the reel seat is right at 1/4". Browsing reel seats it seems that even the smallest ones have an ID of around 1/2". I know I can compensate by using arbors or drywall tape but I want to make sure I'm
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I must have missed the wooden spool packs. No big deal. Thanks for the reply.
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First off, hello fellow rod builders. This is my second post and I didn't introduce myself in the first one. I have been building rods as a hobby for only a little over a year now. I just finished my 3rd complete build but I picked up a couple of blanks at the expo to keep me busy for a while. So now my question. I attended Billy's decorative wrapping seminar and I liked his idea of housin
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I was convinced there was a goose on the loose. I guess that says something about the vendor's products! Too funny. Billy, I was in your seminar on Saturday. It did get annoying but you handled it well. If I had known it was a vendor I might have walked over myself and politely asked him to keep it down. But then I probably would have missed some important bits of decorative wrapping know
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