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Made from nut
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If I remember correctly its a very slow spiral technique.
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Correct me if Im wrong but Matagi from Japan have Fuji stainless steel K guides in polished silver ( P) ( chrome ? )with SIC rings.
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Of course the tip section ( extremly tin and elastic )is a pain in the A. to wrap :)
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I used them too. Matagi Super Rozy Figaro . The solid and elastic tip ( v.v.very thin) has a role in helping you to throw micro lures , to see the bite on it, helping to not tear the mouth of the fish and loose it ( there are species with soft mouth tissues ) and also in giving a very fast( tip ) action for the rod . I love them for trout and chub fishing in streams and small rivers .
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Happy Birthday Tom !!! Wish you all the best. And thank you for all that you did for this craft. Gabriel
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I put it on the lathe and cut off with a dremel as turnig( pretty high speed) and also finishing the edge while its turning with files and sandpaper( down to 1000 grit). I found that this method gave me the fastest and everytime straight/smooth cut/edge above all. After this procedure the edge is looking better than how its came out from fabric.
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The Ultra Swimbait have a polished( but not shiny) graphite look, very similar to the MHX blanks.
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Yes , the KB will be the choker. Have fun with your builds.
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5.5M is the same in hight as the "original" 5.5 H. So Ernest was talking about same thing. The KB guides have a more practical use then aesthtetics...they were projected to be placed on a rod where the pulling forces from the line increase(taken from the tip section) ,roughly in the mid section( or a little bit above) . They have a pretty intuitive name also, the B from the KB
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I found that the nail knot method does slip open when you trim the tag ends if you use less then three turns, it needs a drop of CP before cut the tags,whit three turns its holding perfectly..... but sometimes (in case of translucent nylon) I prefer it, its just looks better than to have two tag ends (that you pull under) showing through the main( nylon)wrap. Obviously its not the case of the NPC
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Hope was some help for you.
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I dont know the distance between South River and Sayreville , but you can try at Dennis Danku there. If im corect..is a 5 min. drive...2 miles.
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If that "same spot " is in the epoxi that is already applied on the wrap than you are facing the trapped air that is escaping from underneath the thread....usually due to overheating and maybe because your method of applying the finish is too quick and a good amount of air is trapped in the tunnel .
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Even 1/16. 1/4 almost every low profile baitcaster can manage these days....not every for record breaking distances but for boat fishing situations is enough..at least in case of compact lures like jigheads or spinnerbaits..etc...
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The method that mr.Kaufmann described is a good one,just pay attention to prepare the guide foot to have a shallow taper..because if the climbing on the foot is too abrupt, too sudden due to a faulty preparation...when you will pull the guide in the correct position, the first loops on the foot will become loose almost everytime visible...and it does not loolks too good...but if the transiton to
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There are a lot of misconceptions about the state > of the rod building component supply business > these days. Rarely do I go more than a month than > somebody calls me and asks me what I think about > them getting into the component supply business. > They all feel they can make a killing on th
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I want to know if there is someone from the sponsors of this board, who think is possible to use the plain USPS shipping method and not the FedEx in the case of an order bigger then 100$ ..because from who I was buying until now ( also sponsor here) don't want(can't) help me in this problem. I was trying hard to stay in the 100$ limit to not excceed the 30$ USPS shipping tax, but now I'm growin
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Yes Sir you are right on spot with that...but I was interested only in the actual action of them..yes im aware there are some other very important properties of these materals such recovery time and wheight that will affect the behavior of the final rod..but again, I wasn't sure just about that particular question in my first post. Thank you anyway for your answer.
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Thank you Mr.Kirkman. I already learned from you and the great people around here that you can have an extra fast action blank made out of bamboo, fiberglass or whathever low modulus material or the opposite ,a very stiff rod/blank can have a slow or medium action....all is a matter of taper and wall thickness....but I was not sure about the answer for that particular question...although I guesse
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A question, for what I dont know the answer. Lets assume we have two perfect identical blanks,in matter of lenght,taper,wall thickness everything. The only difference between them will be just the material, one fiberglass and lets say the other high modulus carbon. So my question is if we bend them until their tips will reach a certain point(same point for both) ...will they have the sa
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Mr.Ising. Can we expect in the mirror of this fact that the inner diameter was increased,to see some new smaller sized runners,like 3,5 or maybe 3? I can see them fuctional on some UL-L rods.
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'welcome mr.Powell. As Its a related question I will put it here. I want to know why in the KR micro concept Fuji guide placement charts Fuji recommend to use the LG 4.5 top along with the 4.5 KT guides...as long as the LG 4.5 s ring is more close to the blank and creates an angle between the last 4.5 runner and the top guide. Im looking for an answer especially from mr.Ising and maybe an op
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And select size, in the rolling down window.
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We are talking about KR Belly Guide 6mm ..right? MudHole have them.
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Its out there already..up to 6.
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My fifty. Shore and distance... its all about the lenght of the blank/rod and the thickness of the line. So you need at least 9' or above..10 or 11' and the thinnest line possible for the specific lure and target fish.
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Will happen anyway...at the point where you start to wrap the insert/accent wrap, after you over wrapped the starting tag end of the metallic..where the metallic coming out from under the main wrap and you start the insert wraps, the metallic( at least ProWrap) will unlay from the nylon core.
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Same here..thighten the twist before start wrapping. Because this is happening only when you start the wrap(insert/accent thread)..its not a big deal, a few twists and good to go. Its not about the tensioner at all, I use just a few inch long thread for insert wrap (no tension,no spool involved) and the same( lets say) problem...kind of...It is easy to solve( a few re-twist) ..so its not a re
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