Aesthetics , reducing wheight and also some customers prefer the threads to be shorter if the seat is mounted in down-locking position to reach the blank ( no foregrip) with their thumb. Anyhow,you can't use very different sizes of reels with one particular blank due to its specific lenght and power...and the lenght of the feet is not differing that much so you can use plenty of them ,even if th
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Spin it o a mandrel and dremel it... with a steady hand..then sand the edges ...best profi results..always works for me.
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Mr.Gardner, may I ask what is the real goal to place the stripper's left side (if we talknig about a spiral that goes to the right) in center with the reeel's liine guide? I suppose its just to achieve a faster transition to the complete 180 degree. And for aestetics no? Knowing your personal way to spiral the guides...can you tell me the sizes that you use to do it that way? Because I
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Just pay a good attention for what my father teached me a long time ago..and then Mr. Kirkman remindes us all when it comes to bonding...a good water break surface preparation before glueing and for sure there will be no problems at all with that reel seats.
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Thanks, but a way to do it right, to achieve a professional look? I want it to do myself not to go to the local auto shop with each. Permagloss is the best I think but have no clue how to apply it right..not an easy stuff to work with on a irregular surface. I love it on flat/ round surfaces but a reel seat is another story( at least for me). Automotive clear , the spray canned ones..th
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I need some advice in this . Also if somebody can share the best way to do it.. not just the stuff to use. Thank you.
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I can't belive I missed it :( I was sure will be today :(
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I see a plus for PG , because of the less wheight.
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Thank you Sir...its look easy in your hand ...but im bet it needs a lot of experience to achive that "eas" :). Little details makes huge differences. Great video..thanks.
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Thank you Mr. Gardner. Definetly this is the most painless method to try and compare. I'll do this way. To be honest...i waited an asnwer from you here..And...its worth it :) ..The easiest way... Hope the magazines arrived already.Sorry for offtopic..but sometimes you are easier to reach here..then on your mail. Thanks.
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Sounds pretty good. That could help break the surface tension on the blank too. I' ll give a try...thanks for the tip. The "how to test" was funny. Dont worry..i'll take your word for it and i'll leave them happy on the surface :).No sinking plans in the near future :) A lot of good tips guys ...thanks. Now I just need to put in a balance the pros and cons.... S
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Bill...what is that ? Pam yea? 'dont understand.... May be my salvation?
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Yes ..I already took in the PG version for that..Although I'm affraid a little bit of that too..I never used it for guides..just for finish the blank. Thank you very much.
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Yes..I know Mr. Kirkman is right...I have no choice , but test them myself. It is a spinning rod. The thing is..it will be some work and maybe for nothing. I must to clean the whole blank(it's not bare graphite) ..etc... I just hoped there is somebody who tried them already and will share some info about it. I know there are crappie fanatics in US(not sure if there is tournaments
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Sorry for im was not mention it. Im talking about the size 2 nano guides with no insertion in it . The smallest guides I think on the market for the moment. For the purpose for what will be used this rod are the best( very light blank, thin mono line , light lures and small fish)...exept the line sticking question...that im not sure I can eliminate with adding more guides.
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Thanks for the advice. That happend to you when you used really light lures? Here is my point and the story. Maybe its easier for you to help me if I tell you the whole situation. Someone heard about micro guides...but all that he knows about them is that they'll change his good rod in a better rod :)...Thats all he knows about them. So, becous we talk about an UL moderate action rod
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I just want to know if anybody used these guides on a UL blank, for throwing very tiny lures, like 1/32-1/16 with realy thin mono line? My main concern would be that if the line will or will not sticking to the blank when is wet,due to the "hight" of these really tiny guides...affecting drasticly the casting distance. Talking strictly in terms of some very light lures.
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But why do you want to cut the rod itself in two pieces if just the seat is the one that is broken?
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Better use a hair dryer ...its creating enough heat to soften the epoxy and the risc to overheat the blank is almost inexistent. With the heatgun the risc is there...but if you are real carefull it can be done. And always cut the epoxy/thread on the foot of the guide...never on the blank....Just cut at the base of the guide and unthread the whole wrap with the softened epoxy on it.
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Carol...I just wanted to suggest ,to talk with Mr.Scurtu.He is the one who made spinning rods,out of fly blanks...and here you go, he is here with a solid answer. For sure he can tell you about fly blanks and their sensitivity. But if senistivity comes first ...I 'm not sure if a fly blank is the right choise in the detriment of specialized jig blanks.
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But dont make the same mistake like I did in the beginning :) Before just push " Search", modify first the search date, from " last 30 days" to " all dates".... Otherwise you will find nothing or very few things , in most of the cases.
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Email sent. Thank you
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Thank you... I'll do that..And will give feedback with the results , if someone is interested, of course :)
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So,I tested what Mr.Kirkman suggested... and no doubt about it ,the more you grip the blank higher, more leverage you get... Common sense tells me.. Theres just one way to fight that...the weight of the grip as a balance. And...As already said I want to use hardwood(nut) ... So atached temporarly the piece of wood to the blank put the reel seaton with the reel and...surprise...Actually when I pa
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Thank you Mr. Kirkman for your quick answer,but im not quite sure if I get the message . You try to suggest its an old and ineficient type oF build with not enough leveridge to fight the fish..and did not worth to do it? Im sure its not populare in the present but im trying to make a rod to fit my lazy style of fishing. Im casting one handed most of the time and what can fit.better if not a
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I wonder if ,someone can help me out with some kind of how-to about pistol grips..and also in the question of the proper lenght of the blank for this type of rod...6' will be ok or is too long and I will have problems with tip heaviness? I was thinking to use a St.Croix SC II 2pc. ML blank that in my opinion is pretty light "barefoot" and hopefuly ,with micro guides will remain as
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Maybe,years ago you did somehow diferent..another tension device or another type of thread (some are softer than other)...but im almost sure if you'll try with less tension, you will be closer to the results of that years ...good luck.
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Im not an expert but I supose ,your problem have something to do with the tension you use on the main thread...the more tension you apply,more visible tag ends you get under the wrap.
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And thats why the longer rods have longer handles ...to balance that advantage of the fish :) ..and the rod itself of course.
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Maybe it's time to use the term"speed" or "stiffness" more often..to introduce it deeper in the common everyday use.Will be easeier for everyone..for customer and buider also to understand each other. And why not...the blank fabricants? ..Would be great to specify the speed (yeah I know, there is no way to quantify that , yet), of the blakns, in catalogs..The customer woul
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