I use 99% Isopropyl for clean up of epoxy and it works well. But for cleaning a blank before finishing is one better than the other? I sometimes get the finish repelling on certain spots and have not pinned it down yet.

Thanks - Marc

Keep it simple - that's all I can handle!

Marc,
After wiping a blank down with alcohol, give it a good wipe down with soap and water followed by a wipe down with clean water.

Let dry well.

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The issue with alcohol is that it is NOT a solvent for epoxy or thread finish.

As a test, you can just mix up some finish and then put some alcohol into the finish and you will find that the alcohol does not thin the finish but in most cases just tends to clump up the finish. You will also notice that alcohol does not do a good job of cleaning a brush that has thread finish in it, because the alcohol does not mix with the finish.

If you do have to use a solvent, then you can use Xylene. Xylene is quite toxic, and must be used in a well vented area, with appropriate mouth and skin protection. But, you will find that if you mix Xylene in with thread finish that the finish and xylene mix perfectly well together. You will also notice that if you have a brush loaded with thread finish and dip it into a container of Xylene, that the finish mixes with and is easily cleaned from the brush.

When you look at the product designation on the Xylene container you will see that it is part of the chemical family and is commonly used for a thinner for epoxies of all sorts, as well as some resins and other similar finish and paint.

But, because, it is "hot" so to speak from a chemical stand point, it is normally not a good thing to use when wiping down a blank because it will often combine so well with the finish on the rod, that as you wipe down the blank you will strip the finish off of the blank. So, I suspect that it is not in your best interest to use Xylene to clean up a rod blank that you are building, unless you are also stripping the finish off of the blank.

If you decide to use Xylene to clean up a blank, and it is a new blank, be sure to do a small test spot on the finish first that will be covered by the grip or similar area of the blank to be sure that you know any effect that the Xylene might have on the blank.

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As a result, the use of soap and water, like dawn laundry detergent works well as a dust and degreaser for the blank without affecting any finish that might be on the blank or any future thread finish you might put on the blank.

Good luck

make sure your rinse the soap and water very well

I use ispoproply to clean before painting and soap and water (baby wipes) after painting. If you can get it, 100% pure anhydrous alcohol works amazingly well to clean up. The denaturants are usually what prevents ethanol from working as well as xylene. Anhydrous evaporates extremely fast and easily so it tends to leave no trace residue

I must be living right Never did the soap and water thing I wash - Wipe dry well - Alcohol can leave a film on so - then hit with a gray pad - Wipe again with a dry clean paper towel for any dust Your good to go

Bill - willierods.com

I'm with Bill, except I like to use a tacky cloth lightly over the area I have sanded with the gray pad. I worry that dust won't be totally taken away by a paper towel. I've never seen evidence of the tacky cloth causing trouble. I think I will try some anhydrous alcohol, sounds good.

question: If alcohol isn't a solvent for fresh wrap epoxy or structural epoxy then why does it do such a nice job of cleaning up epoxy that gets where you don't want it on joints between reel seats and grips, edges of wraps, etc.?

Color me confused on the alcohol thing. Here is what I think I know, but "alcohol" exists in so many types it is at best confusing.

Isopropyl alcohol, AKA rubbing alcohol or wood alcohol, seems to do a good job cleaning up excess epoxy when mounting reel seats, grips, etc. Other than being flammable it has few downside risks to use (just don't drink it - very bad).

Grain alcohol, AKA ethyl alcohol, is a de-greaser but is a controlled substance and sort of pricey for our use.

Denatured alcohol, AKA DNA or methylated spirits, is a degreaser and will also clean up excess epoxy. However, the denaturing chemicals are bad stuff (poison) and those denaturing chemicals do not always play pretty with wrap finish epoxy when used as a cleaner / degreaser.

To clean a blank some Dawn dish soap, soft cloth and plenty of fresh water rinse does work. However, there is at least one brand of rod for which the use of DNA is recommended as an initial blank cleaner. Go figure.

To clean a sanded area in preparation for mounting a reel seat or grip a cleaner is not needed. Blow or brush away the remaining dust and epoxy away.

The really confusing thing is DNA appears to work to thin epoxy when making clear wraps. Acetone works too, but it is not so good when in contact with skin or fumes are inhaled. The concoction I use for the last clear wraps I make was 3 ml resin, 3 ml hardener, and 3 ml of DNA. It worked. Why cleaning a blank with DNA is sometimes a problem yet seems to work for clear wraps is a curiosity - at least it is to me.

U-40 brush cleaner is recommended for cleaning blanks prior to wrapping or finishing.

Alcohol from the DRUG STORE - love that name - cheap and easy to get I do not need more chemicals around me The less the better - Mid - temp lacquer thinner will thin and cut finish very well Home Depot

Bill - willierods.com

FYI on the alcohols, from a chemist -

isopropyl alcohol = rubbing alcohol, usually comes diluted with water, sometimes has fragrances or dyes added.

ethanol = ethyl alcohol = grain alcohol = booze. Sometimes its classified as a rubbing alcohol, but usually that term means isopropyl alcohol.

methanol = methyl alcohol = wood alcohol = what you get if you make moonshine improperly, its poisonous. It can cause blindness and also kill you. If you use this it is wise to wear gloves because it can be absorbed in the skin and thus ingested that way. Isopropyl is less dangerous for that (hence its use for "rubbing" or sterilizing your skin prior to needles).

denatured alcohol = ethanol with added poisons. Sometimes several additives. One of the additives can be methanol, but other bad things may be added. They do this so it can be sold without being a controlled substance. It seems possible that other additives could leave a residue you don't want, it probably all depends on the supplier because there are so many options for additives.

All are flammable. As noted the isopropyl is good for cleaning up epoxies. Since isopropyl is so readily available and can be bought cheaply without additives I am not sure why you'd use the other stuff. The isopropyl may have more dissolving power than the ethyl or methyl alcohols, depending on what that epoxy paste is made from.

I am surprised folks are using other organic solvents like xylene. That should have a lot of dissolving power for anything greasy, or paints, or some dyes, or other substances. Plastics could also get messed up. I'm not sure what they put in rod blanks to bind them all together,

Jason

DNA with bitrex will be cleaner than DNA with methyl additives....bitrex is also nontoxic, it just tastes terrible. You call tell the difference by smelling them - bitrex has a nasty bitter smell

Thank you Jason! Isopropyl it is. Nice to hear from someone with creds to go with their opinions.

This is a bit confusing in one aspect. I've been using DNA for a couple of years to clean up epoxy from around seats and grips, and to clean brushes, and it works nicely. Not trying to start an argument. I'm going to believe the chemist on this one.

I'm about out of DNA, so isopropyl will be my next alcohol purchase. Unless my wife sends out on a wine run that is.

NEVER use acetone or lacquer thinner on a graphite blank. Ask me how I know........