Am looking at Anglers Roost reels as suggested to another member.What am I looking for?For my 4wt panfish rod Im gonna build,do I want a small diameter medium arbor reel or what?I assume the larger dia. reels are for heavier wt. rods and larger fish where more line for fighting fish would be used.Also are the lines and backing at the same place what Iwant? Thanks again

You want a reel that will do two things - help balance the rod and maximize the retrieve. For what I suspect you're going to be doing, line and backing length isn't likely to be an issue.

The arbor size is immaterial. It's like the wheel in a tire and has no bearing on how much line you take up per turn of the handle (we go fishing with a full reel, not an empty one). So a small arbor reel with a larger outside diameter, will take up line more quickly than a large arbor reel with a smaller outside diameter. If you like, call the point where your line rests the "effective arbor." You want the reel full. Just because you don't plan on getting into the backing doesn't mean you shouldn't fill the reel to within 1/8th inch of the spool lip. A full reel will gain more line back per turn of the handle than one only partially filled.

I never bother with reel numbers. They really don't mean anything. I like the largest diameter reel I can use without making the rod butt heavy. So the longer the rod, the larger the reel I can utilize. Whatever you decide, just don't think that when using a 4-weight rod you have to choose a reel listed as a "#4." You can use whatever you like. Most times, the model number one size above your rod's line weight is actually more suitable when using longer 8-1/2 to 10 foot rods.

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You have a ton of reel choices. The most important thing in my opinion in selecting a reel is how it is going to balance on the rod and your not going to be able to figure that out without putting a couple of reels on the rod and seeing how they feel.
Large arbor reels offer an increase in line retrieve and less memory to the line. Most of what you are seeing sold today are large or mid arbor reels. The standard arbor reel will also work fine. If all you are going to use the rod for is panfish I would not worry about spending a ton of money. I would take the rod to a local fly shop and see what they have in reels before you pull the plug and buy one online. If your rod is 8.5 to 9ft I would look at a light weight large arbor reel that has a spool diameter of 3 to 3.5 inches. Most of my 9ft rods in 4 and 5wt, I use a large arbor reel that is 3.25 inches in diameter. Smaller rods, will see reels 3 inches down to about 2.75 inches.
You can get the line and backing from the same place, select a backing that is from 12lb to 20lb. Again since you are only using the rod on panfish, you don't need to go crazy and get the most expensive brand of backing. Once on the reel it will probably never come off unless you tangle with a carp. Fly lines, there are only 3 US companies that produce fly lines, the rest of what you see out their, for example Cabela's and Bass Pro have their lines made by one of the three. You don't need to spend 75 for the high end stuff in my opinion. Cortland, Rio and Scientific Anglers all make good lines.

There are three reels that would work very well with a 4wt, the 201M, the 101M and the 101L. My personal preference would be the 101M in titanium, but it is the heaviest of the three reels. The 201M is the lightest of the three. All have adequate backing capacity, but you could go up to the 2 series to get extra backing and reel diameter but a little more weight. I am not sure of the exact backing capacity of the reels, but he had a good price on the ARC 110 yard spools of backing. I don't know anything about his fly lines but $12.95 for a panfish line would probably work fine.

Call johnny if you have any questions. He is usually pretty helpful.

I guess I am just a minimalist, and old timer when it comes to fly reels for pan fish. I have to ask the guys that have caught a lot of pan fish on a fly rod; When was the last time that you made a cast long enough to get into the backing? Did you go to the reel, or play the fish by hand? Did the fish make a run long enough to get you into the backing? Did the extra 5” of line retrieval per revolution of the reel make a difference? We are talking about catching Bluegill, Crappie, and small Trout here in the U.S., not Sail Fin. You need a reel heavy enough to balance the rod, and large enough to hold the line and a little backing. Just my opinion and not trying to step on any toes.

Mike Bradfrod
R.M.B. Fishing Rods
Nampa, Idaho

The reason I advise for a larger diameter reel, filled properly with backing, has nothing to do with fish fighting (on these smaller fish) but everything to do with the convenience of taking up line when you're preparing to move from one spot to the next. It's simply much quicker and easier when you're not having to deal with a tiny reel.

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With a four weight you will be stripping line to land a fish, not reeling line. The drag specifications of the reel are inconsequential for a four weight reel - it stores line. A four weight reel only supports stunt fishing in saltwater - corrosion is not an issue. A four weight reel will seldom deal with more strain than a 4X leader can provide; exotic metals and alloys are uncalled for. I would go for a graphite-frame, graphite spool reel with a click drag - exceptionally lightweight and cheap, but more than adequate for your purpose.

take your rod
Add some weight to the seat When you get the rod to feel good in your hand -- with line on it -- find a cheap reel Unless you like telling your friends -- look at this reel I Paid ----------- for it

Bill - willierods.com

take your rod
Add some weight to the seat When you get the rod to feel good in your hand -- with line on it -- find a cheap reel Unless you like telling your friends -- look at this reel I Paid ----------- for it

Go to Anglers Roost

Bill - willierods.com

Tom:

I didn't mean to imply that you were wrong in your suggestions. I actually never even considered your reason for the larger spool. I have been reading the questions posted by Bruce Kemp, and sort of figured out that he is new to fly fishing. I don't know if he is new to rod building or not. I guess my suggestion to Bruce would be to find a casting class that has rods and reels the student can use, and learn to cast while he is building his rod. Buy an inexpensive reel and fly line to use while he is learning. He will destroy at least one line learning to cast. I don’t know where Bruce is located, or how far it is to where he is going to fish. I do know that you don’t have to be fishing to cast a fly rod, and you don’t even have to have water. You can practice in your yard if it is big enough, or go to the local park. I have seen more than one person that thinks they want to try fly fishing, and gets “one of those sales people”. They end up spending a bunch of money, and then quit fly fishing after the first or second trip out of frustration.

I will apologize up front to anyone that is even slightly offended by this post. My apology to Tom for not even thinking about what he was writing about.

Mike Bradfrod
R.M.B. Fishing Rods
Nampa, Idaho