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Reelseat glue and arbor
Posted by:
Linus Tay
(203.116.251.---)
Date: March 01, 2012 04:49AM
I'm assembling my rod and find that I've run out of epoxy glue which is what I usually use. In a pinch, will slow cure araldite do? Are they the same thing?
Another thing. I'm still using masking to create arbors basically because nothing else is available locally. Do you guys that still do this use more tape or more glue under the Reelseat? I'm torn between 2 bands of tape and more glue versus 3 bands and less glue. I'm not convinced that a large cylindrical tube of glue under the seat adds any more holding power. What are your views? Cheers! Re: Reelseat glue and arbor
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: March 01, 2012 08:04AM
It doesn't. The bond is between the mating surfaces of the tape and reel seat interior. Any adhesive you pour into the open spaces is just additional weight that robs you of some amount of sensitivity. It certainly doesn't create a stronger bond.
The Flex Coat type urethane arbors (other companies offer similar) are quicker to mount than tape and offer greater strength and longevity. ................... Re: Reelseat glue and arbor
Posted by:
Terry Turner
(---.hsd1.or.comcast.net)
Date: March 01, 2012 10:07AM
I agree with Tom, the foam arbors are the best. If you don't have those, or if your gap is small, drywall tape is another good alternative and available at any hardware store. masking tape is a poor alternative and unless the tape sections are fully encapsulated with epoxy, you depend on the tape glue itself for the bond, which is very weak. The drywall tape is mesh which allows direct connection to the blank.
Terry Re: Reel seat glue and arbor
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: March 01, 2012 11:10AM
Linus,
When using tape for an arbor, I will use various widths of tape to achieve the arbor. I like to space the tape strips about 1/16th inch apart to allow glue to have a direct bond from the blank to the reel seat. I will use a couple of narrow strips at each end, and then use wider strips in the middle of the reel seat. In particular, when only a very thin arbor is required, the use of masking tape is many times more convenient to use than any other arbor. As long as you have nice strips of epoxy from the reel seat to the rod blank, as well as to the tape itself, you will have a bullet proof reel seat bond. Good luck Roger Re: Reel seat glue and arbor
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: March 01, 2012 01:26PM
in using tape for arbors use 1/4" i use three One on each end and one in the middle
But as said if there is a lot of space you are better off with a flex coat arbor glue it into the seat let dry ream to fit the blank Bill - willierods.com Re: Reelseat glue and arbor
Posted by:
Col Chaseling
(---.lnse2.cht.bigpond.net.au)
Date: March 01, 2012 03:48PM
Hi Linus,
I've been using super stregth araldite for over 35 years and haven't had a problem. Just make sure you keep an eye on the joints for a couple of hours as it can bleed out a bit. I've also used tape arbours for a long time and haven't had a problem. Stripped a rod a couple of years ago that was over 20 years old and the tape was still like new. Just make sure the tape is completely encassed in araldite and they will last forever. If you've got a big gap between seat and blank then foam arbors are the way to go. I usually use 1/2 inch tape for arbors and as Roger said they're a lot better if your got a small gap. I generally use 3 or 4 arbors depending on the length of the seat and put them on as tight as you can without breaking the tape. The best thing about tape arbors is you will get a perfectly concentric blank and seat. ESFNEM Col Port Kembla, NSW Australia Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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