I normally use black thread with metallic trim bands so I do not have much experience with CP. On two of the rods I have built using lighter colors with Chromaseal I have had delamination between the finish and the thread and was wondering what I may be doing wrong??? I am applying one coat of Chromaseal and one build was using one coat of Threadmaster HB and the other with two coats of Pro-Kote. Do you normally apply finish heavy due to it not being able to penetrate the wraps as well? I only applied the CP to the thread without getting it on the blank.

Thanks, Scott



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2011 10:00AM by Scott Armstrong.

I normally use 2 coats of CP but I don't use Chromaseal due to problems in the past. I use either U-40 Color Lock or Cason's Crystal Clear water based. Also, how long did you let the CP dry before applying the finish? The only other thing I can think of is that maybe something got on the thread, dirty fingers, oily, some sort of cleaner?

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

I had that happen, I am pretty sure it was dirt and oily fingers, cause when I started using gloves it went away, But I could be mistaken.

I now keep some of that GermX next to my wrapper along with washing my hands before wrapping, especially after eating greasy foods.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

I let it dry for 24 hours. I don't think I have any contaminates in the thread but I could be wrong. I have no problems without CP so I think it I am doing something wrong with it. I guess I should add, the problem areas are where my epoxy ramp in front of the reel seat meets the blank and at the guide stems.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2011 10:21AM by Scott Armstrong.

I apply 2 thin coats with a brush to make sure it gets in the threads good. Did it fisheye on you at all? If you have another brand of CP, I would try it. Also make sure to stir the Chromaseal very good if you didn't already know that.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

No fisheyes. Do you let it dry between coats? The directions on the bottle are a little confusing. I applied one coat and the thread soaked it up I touched it up as it was turning. I shook up the bottle real well a couple of hours before using it since I don't use it much, to give the bubbles time to go away. Then I stirred before applying with the end on the brush. I only have the Chromaseal as of now since CP is not something I normally need with the colors I've used.

I let it dry for about 2hours before I put the second coat on. Try not to shake it though, just stir or roll it on the floor a few times. You can also thin it with water if needed. Sometimes that helps.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

Then I stirred before applying with the end on the brush.

This may be the problem You hold the brush with your fingers and could have gotten oils from them on the brush and now in the CP

Bill - willierods.com

David,
If you are using a CP that is milky in appearance, it is a suspension of the solids in water. That is why you must stir before using since the solids have settled to the bottom. By diluting it, you simply get fewer solids for each volume of CP used. In essence you are simply adding more water to your wrap and less of the solids which are what coats the thread. Good luck

Mike Blomme

At a gathering a few months ago a well known rod builder was demonstrating feather inlays using the milky type cp thinned at 50/50. He said that he always thins his even with normal wraps. I don't use the milky type (almost never). I was just putting that out there because I had seen it done. Mark Crouse is the builder by the way. He stated that (for him) it seemed to help it soak in better. That being said, he also uses more than 2 coats I believe. I would recommend Cason's because it has never given me any negative effects. I don't thin it and it dries very fast.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

Maybe I'll try thinning it. I do not think this is a contamination issue since I have never had fisheyes or these issues without CP. I have always used the end of my disposable brush to stir both the CP and my finish. I think I maybe applying the CP to thick and finish to thin.

When you say delamination, what exactly do you mean? Are there spots that seem to cave in like fish eyes or are you saying inconsistent color or what? If you are getting inconsistent color, then it's probably due to uneven coating of CP. If you put one thick coat in one area and a thin coat in another, the color will be different when you apply the finish. It will be dark in one spot and lighter in another.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

The epoxy finish is peeling away from the thread like it is not getting a good bond to the thread surface after a little use. It happened on this last rod on my epoxy ramp in front of the reelseat. The color looked great after the finish was applied, it just hasn't held up. I did not have one fisheye on the entire rod. One another rod, the guides twisted enough to crack the epoxy after little use. I haven't had these issues without the Chromaseal so I know I am doing something wrong with it, I just don't know what. Does CP normally make for a weeker wrap? It seems like it would but I know a lot of you guys use it without problems.

I haven't had that problem with CP. Hopefully someone will chime in that's had the same issue. I can't see what you did wrong if you let it dry overnight before putting the finish on and there was no contamination. It should have worked fine.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

Scott,

Im having issues too with my finish over CP also. But my finish looks like its cave in (like pot holes) not sure if you getting that result.

Trung

I use cp on all of the rods I build. No expierence with Chromaseal. i have only used Flex Coat and have not had problems like you describe. ?????????????

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

YOu probably got CP on teh blank. CP prevents epoxy form sticking to th eblank, that's probably why it's turning white and coming up. i'm assuming. IF oyu use CP and get some on the blank, oyu gotta make sure epoxy gets on teh bare blank or this will happen, or the epoxy will get cludy when it rains.

Billy's right on there. Only cp the threads. Give them a good couple of coats. Go past the the end of the threads so you know they are covered but wipe off any excess that is on the blank proper so then the epoxy will adhere to the blank and not the cp which will cause it to lift.Regards; Woody.