Just wondering what you have found to be the best way to shorten threads on casing seats? Specifically blank exposed casting seats like Batson's or Castaways that don't need an arbor installed in the front section under the threads.

Thanks!

Marc

it depends on the builder. some cut with a hacksaw and square up on a sander and some chuck in lathe and turn off the threads to be removed. if you decide to square up on a sander try not to let it heat up as it will melt. use a light touch

Dremel with a cut off wheel and 1/2" tape as a guide.

Rolly Beenen
Rovic Custom Rods

I wrap masking tape as a guide and us a razor saw...I did the hacksaw before,and it works fine,but the razor saw with a fine blade is a little faster/easier for me.
Then I run the cut end over a flat file to level and clean up with fine grit sandpaper...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/16/2010 01:02PM by Walker_Nelson.

Rolly has it nailed, I'll only add that a DIAMOND cut off wheel is super thin and works the very best. You can buy them 3 at a time for just a couple bucks and they last forever with no "wheel dust" like you get from a carbon cut off wheel.

DR

I'll only add that dremel makes a bunch of other parts like small sanding discs, wire brushes, and polishing bits to get a smooth edge. The cut off is easy. The clean up is the key.

I mask, cut off on a band saw, then touch up with a sander.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

I cut it off about .150" beyond the nut when a reel is installed. I then trim the threads off the barrel of the seat to where they stop right at the edge of the nut and then square it up with about .050"to .060" sticking beyond the nut and buff with a unitized wheel. I do all this because it makes my epoxy ramps even since the edge of the reel seat is now concentric with the blank. It does add about 5 extra minutes to my build time, but is well worth it with the finished product.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/18/2010 12:01AM by Andy Jones.

I use the same fine tooth saw I cut blanks with. Slide the seat on a wood arbor and chuck it in the lathe. Use high speed and touch the saw blade to the seat. Makes a nice, perfectly straight cut everytime

Bandsaw. If you happen to melt the edge just take a razor, it pops right off since the melted plastic is really brittle when it cools.

Just a hint,or thought, Those of you using cut off wheels, band saws and belt sanders. Try packing the end that is to be with dry ice. You get a clean cut, no heat and no heat rolls, next take buffing compound and polish the edge

Good Wraps Bob

WOW!!! That is way too complicated.

honestly I have a set of v blocks and just lop off the excess on a mitre saw.. square up on the grinder and call it done.

What is to complicated Bill?

Good Wraps Bob

What is to complicated Bill?

Good Wraps Bob

Yeah I always have a steady supply of dry ice around.

Leave nut on, tighten it down, take 1/2 masking tape, wrap over threads and use as guide from the end. Cut of with dremel. Loosen nut until nut is removed from seat. Clean up edges and reinstall nut. Start to finish of job should be no more then 5 minutes and that includes drinking a cup of coffee.

Rolly Beenen
Rovic Custom Rods

double post

Rolly Beenen
Rovic Custom Rods



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/18/2010 01:54AM by Rolly Beenen.

What is complicated? Are you serious? Dry ice and a buffing wheel to cut a reel seat? Complicated isnt' the word I wanted to use - it's just flat out bad advice.

How many reel seats have you cut yourself using dry ice? How did you handle the ice to pack it in the seat? What protection did you wear to prevent the ice fro touching your skin? How much smoother did the buffing leave the edge of th seat vs. any other method mntioned to get a flat edge? WHo cares because a grip material is going to butt up against it anyway. As I said, it's bad advice, even if you or anyone else is actually doing this and ar happy with the results, people reading this and wondering should not be using dry ic for anythign in rodbuilding, it's ridiculous.

No coffee yet Billy? You're right the thought using of dry ice is overkill at best and dangerous. Changing small rolls of plastic that rub off for potentially shards of material and dry ice contact doesn't make much sense. Anyone concerned with the end could bury it in the lower grip below the reel seat much the same way as fly rod handle fores are often slid under the grips. Bandsaw, chop saw, miter saw, hack saw, razor saw - all are much more efficient, safer and easier.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/18/2010 07:22AM by Ken Preston.

19 posts to cut off threads on a seat Dry ice ???? I guess you guys want to make things complicated ?? Dooooo

Bill - willierods.com