I would like to know if anyone here has had any success creating rod lables with the Papillio Inkjet Holographic, gold , or silver paper. I have been working with this stuff and I can get a damn nice lable to print out, but actually putting it on a rod, now that is a whole different ball game. I have had ZERO success actually getting a label to work out. From what I have learned, you need to wear knitt golves so to not get any fingerprints on the lables. If you get finger prints on them, they are automaticly ruined. The stuff doesn't bend around a rod blank, I have tried exactly what was printed in Rod Maker to get these things to stay put, but they just have a mind of their own. I tried adding C.P to the edge of the lable, and the adhesive peeled back and then it took the ink with it. I have tried sealing it with the Papilio U/V protectant, and that really doesn't seem to do much of anything to help the matter. If anyone has any advise for me I would much appreciate it, other wise if someone wants to try this stuff, you can have the $50.00 worth of stuff that I have purchased.

Thanks,
Steve

Steve Bro
(BroCo Custom Rods)

Steve, did you use Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic? And yes, you have to be very careful appling the decal to the rod. I start from the center and work out. I have had no problem as long as I follow the instructions in RodMaker.

Steve

Sorry you are having trouble but the labels are very easy to apply if you have the correct paper.

Let me see if I can help. First I will need some additional information please.

Where did you get the paper? If you ordered it from Texas Craft what is the part# and name of the paper?

Did you have the same problem with the silver and gold?

Did you try the white vinyl?

The reason I ask these questions is because there are some of the holographic papers that are extremely hard to apply. There is also one that is very easy to apply.

I will respond later with additional information after I receive your response.

You are welcome to contact me directly if you like.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/12/2009 08:29AM by Bobby Feazel.

How do you take the fingerprints off? I put my grubby paws all over one of the sheets as I was informed that I shouldn't touch it!!

First, read the article again, particularly the part about applying the decals to the rod. As mentioned in the article, the media is fragile and must be carefully handled and applied. The application of a spray fixative is important to "toughen" the surface of the labels, making them far easier to handle and apply.

Did you "clamp" the label to the rod as outlined in the article? This creates a "memory" in the thicker media that helps those edges stay put. For at least one of the holographic papers, it's a required step.

I had many discussions with Bobby, Bill and the folks that produce the media and I often made the comment that as beautiful and exciting as the technique is, it does require a craftsman's touch when particular media types are used.

...................

Kevin

Best to just leave the finger prints alone and just try not to make anymore. Handle the paper by the extreme edges.

Go ahead and use the paper with the finger prints and see if you are satisfied with the printed results. At best I would guess you will only lose one or two labels but the majority of the paper should be OK.

Steve when you respond to Bobby's post with the answers please include the approximate diameter of the blank you are working with and the size of the decal as it relates to the width and wrap around size. If you have the time please take a look at this link and see if you can match up the media that you are having difficulties using.

[www.swamplandtackle.com]

Steve,
Unhide your email so I can contact you or email me at sales@southerngrafix.com

Jimi Ellis
Southern Grafix
www.SouthernGrafix.com

I have had no luck with the silver plaid holographic (I think that's what I have. I'm on vacation and don't remember for sure). It simply will not stick to the blank, even after trying Tom's paper wrap technique. The paper is too stiff and peals back off the blank after removing the paper wrapping. I tried it in front of a 13 mm seat and behind a 15 mm seat and couldn't get either to work. I suspect I need to order some of the other easier to use paper.

The "hyper plaid" holographic is very stiff. The standard holographic is much easier to deal with.

The decal on the cover of the current issue was made from the "hyper plaid" stuff, but was stuck to a larger diameter surf blank section.

...........

One tip I failed to mention - On smaller diameter blanks you may be able to size the decal to wrap all the way around the blank and stick it to itself. Something you can try anyway.

..................

The absolute best holographic paper based on my experience, because of both appearance and ease of use, is the holographic paper called 'silver shine'. I have gotten so used to it that I can apply a 360 degree label with no Krylon, no color preserver on the edges and still have no lifting. You can do this also once you get used to the application process.

One important caution; Allow the ink to dry for several hours, over night is best. Then it is easily handled without fear of great damage. Be sure and use the burnishing process described in the article.

This is the media that was sold at the Expo by Swanpland.

Decals made with this media will absolutely kinock your socks off when held in the light.

I grabbed a pkg. of the decal media demo'd at the Expo in the Swampland booth...my only regret is I didn't buy more. Following the articles in Rodmaker, I've had no problems w/ the media. I'm still feeling my way around graphics software, but no problems in printing/application of the media they provided. Like was said above, I immediately put my oily fingers on the metallics, but I've learned to wear non-powdered vinyl gloves(like I wear when working w/ epoxy finish). As Bobby said, they DO knock your socks off! Jerry

Ok everyone, the paper that I have is as follows; Inkjet holographic hyper plaid film item #IHGHP8511G, Inkjet silver metallic film item #SAP8511KK , AND Inkjet gold metallic film item #FAP8511KK. I purchased this paper from Texas Craft. I have a Cannon i960 photo printer, which prints the labels absolutly awsome. I have tried this application on several different rods. Last night I was pretty worked up, there is a 7 year old boy that was excited to have his name on his new custom ice rod for this weekend, and umm he just got an ice rod. I understand that an ice rod has a much smaller diameter than a standard open water rod. I have tried to put the lables on a larger diameter rods, a St.Croix SCiV I'm guessing the rod diameter had to be around .375 at the most. On that one I dry fitted the plaid holographic lable so that I would have a small over lap on the back of the rod, and I put the paper over the lable and wrapped size D thread around it and left it for two hours and the edges still came up. I then put CP on the edge and the addhesive, I think ,pulled the finish off of the ink and then the CP made the ink run like it had never dried. I'm not trying to be difficult or slam the process here, I don't think anyone was more excited about the article in Rod Maker then I was. Maybe I underestimated the learning curve. It took allot of work just to figure out and find software that would work for me without going out and buying high buck software. I feel that I have gotten the printing and the design of the lables down, now I just need some help to put them were they were intended to go. I appreciate it. I havn't tryed the white Vinyl yet, I just went for it and picked the colors that I felt would be flashy.


Thanks,
Steve

Steve Bro
(BroCo Custom Rods)

That is an awfully small diameter blank and the media you mention is the stiffest and hardest to work with of them all. Without knowing it, you probably chose the most difficult decal scenario possible.

Do note that the article specifies that if using the clamp procedure, you should leave the "clamp" in place at least overnight. 24 hours is even better.

.................

Steve

Thanks for the reply.

First issue: the Hyper plaid you used is the least friendly of all the holographic options because of its propensity to lift at the edges. It is very stiff. The holographic 'silver shine' is absolutely the most friendly with the exception of the white vinyl.

You didn't say if you had tried the gold and silver metallics, but they each have varying degrees of lifting characteristics. The silver is the least inclined to lift and the gold is more inclined to lift of the two.

I'm terribly sorry you got off to a slow start and hope you can make the 7 year old proud of his new rod.

Suggestion. Try the white vinyl first and be amazed at how forgiving it is compared to the other papers.

Hey all,

I thank you for your comments and suggestions, I tryed the Holographic paper 1st, but after what you say,Bobby, I will try the other colors. I think this is a really cool process, and I want so badly to be able to make my own lables. I will keep you updated. I hope to get at least one good one by the weekend, I have a couple of rods that are due out by monday. I will post pictures success or not.

Thanks,
Steve Bro

Steve Bro
(BroCo Custom Rods)

I used to use a similiar type of holo inkjet media from an ex sponsor here years ago. Used to have the same problems. My solution was to stick the label down as much as posible, slide a bit of clear shrink over the top and shrink it down with a just enough heat on a hair dryier to shrink the shrink. I found that the heat as it drained away would be enough to reshape the stuff. The media wasnt paper based though. I was a metalised polyester film. I would leave it overnight and cut the shrink off the following day. I also would first paint over it with clear nail polish instead of cp as it dries very quikly and glues the edges down so they dont lift back up while the epoxy is curing.

Can anyone recommend a good printer to do these labels please? I have an HP 4200 that does an OK job, but after the label is printed it's putting tiny scratches in it on the way out. Would the Cannon PIXMA (ip2600) be a good one? Hoping to find one tin the $50 to $70 range that has the capacity to handle these 8.5x11 media sheets. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

Thank you!
Jeff.

I use an epson c90. The ink is one of the cheapest around and the printing system apprears to have some sort of ink sealing system. The results on plastic type media are brilliant and very quick drying. Only negative is the blacks anrnt very black on plastic becuse of this.

The software I use to print is just regular MS publisher with individual labels laid out on the grid

I have now gone over to another system that I will share with Tom one day when I have some spare time. the results are nice and quite easy to achive with minimum fuss.