I am looking into making some Tuna sticks, for standup/trolling, around a 50# rating, using a spiral wrap. Can you use a @#$%& Spiral Stripper and Spiral tip top, and non roller SIC boat guides for a more simple spiral wrap?? I've seen tuna sticks with the roller stripper and tip top and conventional guides between, would this work in a Spiral wrap with the @#$%& components?? Or should I just go with the @#$%& Spirals all the way through? It would be mostly likely on a Calstar Baja Boomer Jr blank, trimmed for the Unibutt, like what is described here:
[www.stripersonline.com], or with an American Tackle 4' Tuna short (30-60 or 50-80) with the Unibutt.

It would be a 50# setup, with a little stronger rod, most likely teamed up with a Shimano TLD 50 2 speed.


Also, what is the difference between the Southern California, Long range, and IGFA class rods??? Thanks for the help!

Timothy,

The answer to all of your questions regarding @#$%& Spiral wrap is: YES!

Rules for IGFA rods: The rod tip must be 40 inches in length. The rod butt can not exceed 27 inches in length. These measurement must be made from a point directly beneath the center of the reel. A curved butt is measured in a straight line and this measurement shall not exceed 27 inches.

None of the above restrictions apply to a @#$%& Spiral wrapped rod.


Rena

You have a unique situation with roller guides that you do not have with ringed guides. The line must ride deep in the rollers or you risk having it get up and on the frame inside, possibly even shifting down between the frame and the roller. Not a good thing.

For that reason if you decide to go with a spiral wrapped roller set up, I'd follow the instructions that come with those guides.

It is possible to use a roller on top, rollers on bottom, and just offset the 1st couple guides enough for the line to clear the blank to one side. I've done that, the line rode fine in the rollers, although didn't really like it. You could also do a Simple Spiral type set up with a roller on top and rollers along the bottom, and then for a Bumper guide using a ringed guide as it won't be carrying any load. Do heed the advice given in the article on the placement of the Bumper owing to the tendency of trolling rods to be of slower and deep flexing actions.

I've seen many rods with a roller butt guide, roller top, and ringed guides in-between. You also do that if you wanted, although once you get into the 50lb class I'd probably go either SIC or rollers all the way.

.................

Thanks for the info! Sounds like if I want an Acid wrap rod, to go with the @#$%& Spirals. I downloaded the instructions to read over and think about, but I wanted to check here first!

I used Fuji SIC LSBG (heavy duty single foot boat guides) on one of my tuna sticks. I fish it with 80# line and 27# of drag at strike, I get about 35# at full. You don't need rollers for 50# test line.

Whats the difference between the Southern California and Long Range series? Fishing styles?

I do agree with Dave on that - good ceramics will indeed work on a 50lb set up, but I would go either one way of the other, not with a combination.

..............

You do not need roller guides on 50# rods. I use Fugi turbo guides, lately the new HBSG stainless turbo SIC guides, on my acid/spiral wrapped tuna rods up to and including my 60# rods with no ill effects. In fact, they will cast bait much better than the roller guides will.
On the west coast for long range fishing, you rarely see roller guides on rods under 80# class as they just aren't needed and adversly effect casting.

I made 6 40 lb class tuna rods using Size 16 and 12 Fuji TNSG guides, one wrap of size A thread, and 7 coats of permagloss. They are fished HARD by a charter captain, without failure, for 4 years now catching yellowfin and bluefin tuna up to 150 lbs.

Having said that, I would never consider wrapping them in a spiral for use in the ocean with inexperienced anglers are likely to use the rod. It's far too likely they will be broken off on the rail of the boat if the angler slips in rough seas and needs to rest the rod on the side of the boat while they stand up.

Well, I spoke to my aunt and uncle. They are the ones that would be using the rods, and they usually use a roller stripper and tip top, and conv ring guides for the others for less maintenance, so I will prob do their rods with the same setup. I think I am going to make myself one using the @#$%& rollers!

One thing I noticed. On many of the tuna shorts under 80# class, (Am tackle, Pac Bay, etc), the butt dia is .750", which is for the #1 unibutts, but they are for 4# to 30#. Will they work on a 50-80# rod??? I noticed that almost none of the butts will fit a #2 ferrule until you get in the 80 or 130# classes for rods. Whats the deal with this? Still trying to decide on the rod blanks, and I started to notice this a little more! It may be easier to do a tuff butt or slick butt handle, aftco reel seats and Al gimbal and use a 5' 6" rod instead of the Unibutt and the short rods, no storage worries!