Hey Everyone,

Was just checking out the photo page and saw the pics of Scott's latest beauty.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Does anyone have some pointers, an article in a back issue of Rodmaker or a tutorial perhaps that can show me how to do ramps as well as Scott ?

Thanks guys, Jeff

Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat drinking beer all day.

Shieldski Customs

Here's my process, short and sweet:
Sand rod and edge of reel seat with 400grit paper the entire length where the ramp will be located, wipe clean
Mix 5 or 30 minute flex-coat rod building epoxy, about 2cc's of each part
Place rod in dryer and begin rotating
Dab mixed epoxy onto blank with brush and work it up to the reel seat edge
Add as much epoxy and you can to that area and still keep it there as you "work" the epoxy to keep it in place as the rod is turning.
As the epoxy starts to thicken slightly, get the ramp as even as possible with the brush.
When ramp starts to stay in place on it's own leave it alone.
While the rods spinning mix another 2cc's and repeat process, in this application the ramp will really start to take a nice shape, when it does and starts to thicken again, LET IT BE, the dryer will "even out" the ramp FOR YOU (warming the epoxy a touch with a lighter at this stage can help thin it and smooth out a ramp IF it needs it).
While the ramp is evening itself out as the rod turns, mix your last batch of 2cc's and repeat. This 3rd epoxy step is NOT always needed!!! Depends upon how well you did with your 1st 2 coats.
Keep in mind that you WANT to leave a little room for thread or paint that will go on the ramp AS WELL AS two coats of finish epoxy!! So your ramp should be a tad SHY of coming to the edge of the reel seats LOWEST POINT.....meaning: that cut straight line that the hood rides inside, you don't want epoxy in that gully at all, it will imped the hoods movement-not good!
Once ramp is built and still warm, wrap it with thread or paint it right then, the softer epoxy in the next hour + holds the thread nicely or allows the paint to soak into the epoxy well: both are GOOD
Now lay two coats of finish over your ramp-you're done!
DR

I use 5 min epoxy for ramps. With the rod turning. I gob the epoxy where the blank and reel seat meet . Raise the tip a little to get the ramp angle that you want. The turning of the rod will give you a nice smooth ramp right to the edge of the seat. You can color the epoxy but I Just wrap right up the ramp and when you get to the top, just put a small dab of Super glue to hold the tag in pace and tape the end out of the way. Put finish on and when it's dry, trim off the loose end flush. Makes a nice looking transition.

Oops! Typing at the same time, Duane!!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/10/2007 10:54PM by Mike Barkley.

No problem Master! You taught me, I just wrote that and saved it for people that ask me occasionally....copy/paste is a wonderful thing :-)

DR

I took Mike and Duane's methods and began experimenting. I had some failures and eventualy found a groove. Combining some of their ideas, I took 30 minute epoxy, dabbed a very slight bit of Testers black pigment--just enough to make the epoxy smoke-colored and translucent. I then added fine craft glitter, mixed it all together, and built the ramp as Duane and Mike described. I finished the ramp with two coats of Threadmaster finish. Tried it with blue pigment as well. The translucence provides a view of the depth and suspended glitter particles in the ramp. Subtle bling. My ramps are still kinda short and steep, but I'm having fun getting there.

Darrell

Darrell, Good idea! Have to try it!!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Jeff....the rod you are referring to has the ramp at the end of the hypalon grip. In this case I sanded the taper onto the hypalon end itself, coated the taper with brushed coat of 5 min epoxy to seal it, wrapeed over it with thread, and finished as usual.

Just a noobie question here. Has anyone ever tried to build over a rubber winding check. Meaning over the winding check apply epoxy then wrap then coat? I am just wondering if it works I think it will save allot of time not having to build up and then sand the 5 min epoxy. Just wanted some thoughts on this before I proceed.

Gene

I am not sure but rubber flexes an don't how long it will hold the wrap an Flex coat on top with all the effort on the build I would stick on a more stable under build than rubber but it might work so try it out an let us know , but still I would not use it just because it can move some