Hi All,

I am building a 9' #9 for Saltwater. I am using a rainshadow blank and I have a reelseat with a fighting butt. I used 1/2 inch tape around the blank to see how much tape buildup that I would need to have the reelseat slip on, and it seemed like the glue would only adhere to the tape since the blank is quite a bit smaller in diameter. Thanks for your time and looking forward to your responses.

Nick

I!m partial to the Flex-coat arbors.Tape scares me.The big gap on that rod if filled with epoxy will add weight.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

use foam arbors! lighter and will have better feel




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/06/2007 06:20AM by Barry D. Thomas Sr..

Like all things in rod building, it is a matter of craftsmanship as much as materials. I have never had a tape bushing fail. On the Flex Coat rod building video Roger Seiders shows how to do tape bushings, and said he has never had one fail. Graphite/foam arbors must have good fit and be well epoxied to work, if so they work great. Like so many things in rod building, how you do it is as important as what you use.

Marc

I agree with marc. I've never had a tape arbor fail but I have switched from tape to foam arbors. I think using the arbors correctly has the added advantage of lighter weight and on a 9 wt rod that I'm going to be casting a lot every bit of constructionally sound weight savings is important to my old arm.

I have used tape and not had one fail. But if the gap is larger then 1/4" then glue in a arbor to the seat. Let dry. Then it is easy to ream it out to fit the blank. They ream fast so just a little at a time and check often.

I've found that making an arbor from that mesh fiberglass drywall tape works very well.
It has a very open weave that epoxy can penetrate quite easily, making a very solid adhesion.

A cork or foam arbor is my first choice. A drywall mesh tape arbor is the only other good choice, IMO.

If at first you don't succeed, go fishing, then try, try again.

If properly done, all methods will work........but, IMO, the graphite or foam arbors would be the best option structurally and weightwise. In addition, I feel that they are much faster and easier than any of the other options. The others may work but if you're going through the work of making a quality rod, why not spend a buck or two extra and go beyond what is commercially available?

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Thanks for all the replies, the mesh drywall tape sounds like a great idea. I have that on hand.

Regards,
Nick

Nick; I have used all the above. As Mike said all will work fine. I prefer the Flex Coat arbors as many others seem to. When using drywall mesh tape,or anything else for that matter, make sure you scuff a water break free surface with a Grey Scotchbrite pad in the area to be epoxied. Also , I like to take a popsicle stick and press the Rod Bond down into the mesh and the spaces between the mesh rings to help insure good adhesion with the blank.

Jay,

Thanks for the indepth tips.

Nick

Fred Yarmolowicz Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I!m partial to the Flex-coat arbors.Tape scares
> me.The big gap on that rod if filled with epoxy
> will add weight.
>
> Freddwhy(Rapt-Ryte)


i agree! flexcoat arbors are easy and fast...just glue the arbor in the seat then ream out to whatever size you need and glue it to the blank...doesnt get any easier

I've used masking tape, drywall tape, graphite and flexcoat arbors with no problem with any.

i prefer the arbors over tapes b/c of ease of use - in the time it takes to make the tape arbors I can ream and glue a FC arbor and with the lamar 5 or 15 minute epoxy its a no brainer for me

I've had too many rods brought to me to repair the reel seat and even the butt grip because the masking tape failed either by drying out and losing adhesion, or turning into a greasy, sticky mess. Drywall tape, graphite, cork, or Flex-Coat arbors all work very well.

If at first you don't succeed, go fishing, then try, try again.

I use the Dry wall tape and foam arbors with no problems

Nick,

One thing I haven't seen in this post, that I do, when using the drywall mesh. Wrap it to the size you need to fit the seat around the blank. Then unroll and start applying your adhesive, be it Rod Bond, Kardol, or Andy's, while your rolling it back on. This will ensure that you get adequate adhesion all the way through to the blank.

Bill in WV

Small diameter blank: Reel seat arbor is a quick ream to fit with little chance of reaming off-center.

Large diameter blank slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the reel seat: Drywall tape. I don't care for the spongy feel of drywall tape built up to form thick arbors.

flex-coat arbors are the best way to go structurally and weight wise. Why would anyone use anything else. You are trying to build a rod that is superior in every way to a factory rod.

Great incite, I hope I get this much feedback if I post something else. BTW if anyone has a 16mm flex-coat arbor and wants to sell one to me, send me a PM or email.

Regards,
Nick