I wanted to share a possible tip about applying Tru-Oil now that the season is changing and it seems like it takes a longer for Tru-Oil to dry. I have been reading through some forums, and found a gun-stock finisher that added Japan dryer to Tru-Oil to speed up drying time, seems like it does the job, with no ill effect on the outcome of the finish. I think it helps level the Tru-oil coat if you want to apply it a little thicker. I just pour out a little Tru-Oil into the underside of a pop can and add three or four drops of Japan Drier, mix, wipe on finish. I think you would for sure want to wear disposable gloves when using Tru-Oil with Japan Drier added. The pint can I bought at Ace Hardware should last a very long time. Dry time went from days to hours. I will use straight Tru-oil for the last two coats. If anyone has had any bad experiances using Japan Drier I would like to no, Thanks and have a great day.

Rich. I believe you can get the drier at an art store in the little bottles. I like to use Tru-oil for bamboo rods, so thanks for the tip. Here is one for you: When you begin the first coat of Tru-oil on the wrap, rub it onto the blank with your finger and wipe as much off as you can in the direction of the wrap. Then finish the wrap normally with a brush. Do the same for the second coat. After that, you can skip the Tru-Oil onto the blank part until the last couple of coats. When you are done the finish ramps up onto the wrap and looks good even under a 10x loupe. I have been using spar varnish for the 3rd, 4th, and 5th coats to build up the wrap faster. Any comments? I also find that Finesse does not have enough cutting power to polish the final coat. Are you polishing your wraps? Don

Hi Don, I really just use Tru-Oil for wood handles for fishing rods, have never used it for wraps. I would like to add a couple of things about the Japan Drier. I think I read that it turns the oil it is added to into a plastic, has something to do with the Cobalt (heavy metal) in the Japan Drier. I do think it is great to be able to sand between coats a lot faster than having to wait for what can be a couple days even with lite coats, think is has something to do with the weather. I will have to see how they hold up, it seems like it will hold up great, and after it has cured it does not have a oily smell, has no sent that I can tell. I would be a little cautious and use just drops, seems that is all it takes. Have to see if there are any adverse effects, still looks like a Tru-Oil finish. Have a great day, Rich.

Hi Rich,

What sort of wood are you finishing, if I may ask? I usually find that Tru-Oil dries quickly enough that I can apply several coats a day, sanding or rubbing with steel wool lightly between coats. On very oily woods like olive or cocobolo I have found that Tru Oil never seems to dry thoroughly, but on oak, maple, walnut, ash, elm, koa, and others it seems to by completely dry in 3-4 hours. Even here in semi-tropical Louisiana.

Harry

In my experience, the first coat seems to take longer to dry. After that drying time seems shortened greatly.

For oily woods, just soak the wood in acetone. Tru-Oil will then dry well.
Stan

Hi Harry, I have been using a lot of Che-Chen, was told it is a type of rosewood, I have been soaking it in Denatured Alcohol, and then final sanding to apply Tru-Oil. I am in Colorado and do not understand why Tru-Oil takes so long to dry. Maybe the air is a little thinner here. Even with Walnut and very thin coats it takes a very long time. Thank you for the tip Stan about soaking in Acetone, Denatured Alcohol is what I have been using and it seams to work very well for all rosewoods. I really like the way the Tru-Oil finish looks, just do not like slurry sanding two or three times, then the few extra coats to get the depth that I like. I am thinking of using a denser grained wood and may eventually seek a different finish, urethane, polyurethane maybe, hard to get away from Tru-Oil when the end results are what you like.