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Need Rod Recommendation
Posted by:
Erik Hilliard
(66.98.96.---)
Date: December 23, 2004 10:43AM
My dad does a lot of fishing under a bridge for snook. IMO, the rods he's currently using are not suited for this type of fishing. He's throwing Rat-L-Traps mostly, and the occasional swimming jig. Probably 1/2 oz. to an oz. max. Casting distance is not much of an issue as the bridge pilings limit casting distance more than anything else. But, you need a rod with backbone to keep the fish from wrapping around the pilings. So, who's got a rod that will fit this style of fishing? Thanks for the ideas. Re: Need Rod Recommendation
Posted by:
Tom Costa
(---.173.66.34.ptr.us.xo.net)
Date: December 23, 2004 11:09AM
Hey Erik,
I had a similar post a couple of days ago. I am looking to build a couple of inshore rods for a buddy of mine in Boca who does a lot of casting for Snook, Reds and Tarpon. I decided on the: ST. CROIX TC-70-MHF: SC-II Graphite Inshore-SaltWater Series (Matte Green Finish) 7'0" 1-pc. Medium-Heavy Power. FAST-taper. (Spinning or Casting) 10-20# line. 0.5-1.5oz lures. Butt OD: 0.740" Tip size: 7.5 / 64ths. Blank Wt: 3.40 oz. Price: ~$66. Recomendation from Cliff Hall! I got these blanks in the mail yesterday and they are great! They should be perferct.... You can get them through Mud Hole (link on the left). Also check out the St Croix Mag Bass blanks. Any other questions just send me a message. Tom Costa, Boston Re: Need Rod Recommendation
Posted by:
Erik Hilliard
(66.98.96.---)
Date: December 23, 2004 12:43PM
Thanks for the quick reply. I was actually hoping for something shorter with a more moderate action. Reasons being; 1) the tight confines under the bridge (Dad's already broke one rod by smacking a piling in his backcast, and 2) I'm thinking that a shorter rod will give Dad more leverage to subdue the fish quicker (although I can see the advantage of a longer rod in steering the fish away from pilings). Also, I was thinking a rod with more of a moderate action would assist in keeping the treble hooks in the fishes mouth rather than zinging back at his head when he sets the hook too quick. However, since I don't do this type of fishing much I'll gratefully take any advise. Thanks. Re: Need Rod Recommendation
Posted by:
Tom Costa
(---.173.66.34.ptr.us.xo.net)
Date: December 23, 2004 01:04PM
Hey EriK,
well they also make the same blanks in 6'6" and possibly smaller. Check out the St. Croix web site and look at the inshore models and pick the rod you like then oreder it from Mud Hole. I didn't realize you were looking for a shorter rod. You could also cut down the blank which will change the action a little but something to think about. Tom Re: Need Rod Recommendation
Posted by:
Spencer Phipps
(---.client.comcast.net)
Date: December 24, 2004 12:04AM
Erik,
Would a Med Heavy crankbait blank work? Something like the St Croix 3C66MHM, 10 - 20 lb line, 3/8 to 1 oz lure wt. We didn't get any info on what line and reels he uses on the Snook. There are also some S-glass blanks made by Seeker, the BC bass casting series, that are 6 ft long that should work also if you want to go shorter. Re: Need Rod Recommendation
Posted by:
Cliff Hall
(---.dialup.ufl.edu)
Date: December 24, 2004 02:57AM
STOUT is the way to go. If that fish gets a 2-foot slip of the drag, he can just as easily turn it into 10-feet run, because STATIC friction in the drag is always higher than SLIDING friction. Once he gets a run going, it's just plain hard to stop, especially in close quarters. You want a reel that can maintain a high drag AND still be smooth. But basically, once that snook is hooked, you need to think like you have him on a fixed length LEASH. Otherwise, he will not be on that line very long ! He'll head right for the bottom, or around the piling. You can always bow the rod tip to the fish at your will. But if you need to turn his head and the rod & drag give in too much, that snook will burn your line over the nearest structure. And you'll be re-rigging (again) ! At $3-5 per Rat-L-Trap, you learn quickly that being playful with these fish is costly.
Yes, you can straighten the hooks (more likely), or rip them out of a fish's mouth (less likely, 'cause a snooks jaw & lips are thick, rubbery & hook easily). But if you don't have a rod & reel that can hold a tight line to pressure a fish, he's gonna run on you, and he'll cut you right off. It seems to me that snook are never confused about what is going on when they feel the steel in their mouth. THEY TAKE OFF AWAY FROM YOU, away from the pressure they feel, LIKE A ROCKET ! They won't roll over like a striper and violently shake their head, giving that familiar two-yanks and a hard dive. Or they ain't stupid like some cobia that'll swim TOWARD you, because then they don't feel the pressure and think they are free. And they don't stand still and fight in a frantic little circle around where you hooked them, like most bottom fish. In CLOSE quarters, the best way to get a snook off the structure and into the boat or in your hands or on your stringer, is to use a TIGHT LEASH, lead & winch him in, and use a HUGE NET. I'm talking big enough for small children. If these fish are only 4 pounds, you can make mistakes and get away with it. But if they start pushing 8-14 pounds and up ++, there is often little room for error. So, a moderate action blank is not really helpful in fighting a fish, although some may prefer it. If this were beach fishing, with no structure, cut-offs or other boats or anglers nearby, then you / your father would have the luxury of letting a fish run and playing him out. But some of these bridges can be heavily trafficked with other boats, with boats lined up like a toll booth doing a single-pass endless merry-go-round loop. You get one pass / drift thru on the running tide, then it's motor back up-current and get in the back of the line. Sebastian Inlet is like that, but I know he is not fishing there, because overhead clearance is not an issue there. For rod length, 6'6" may be as short as you want to go. Sidearm casting, back-hand pitching, or even flipping-casts like a bass-fisherman is what your father should learn to try. Overhand casting will catch the ceiling, or at least the spider webs under the bridge, and give no end of trouble. A longer rod helps lead the fish away from the boat engine and into the net. Yes, trebles + nets don't mix well, so pick a net-line that fouls hooks less (and doesn't spook fish). -LOL! And one more thing: according to Tom Kirkman in a related POST "St.Croix Blanks"(12-21-04) [www.rodbuilding.org] ST.CROIX will be DISCONTINUING this line of rods. Sorry, but "BOO-!" So, if you want to get a great blank for this situation, order soon. ST.CROIX SC-II Graphite Inshore-SaltWater TC/S-(66-80)-MHF-1pc. ~ $70. Merry CHRISTmas to all, and a PROSPEROUS New Year. Cliff Hall, Gainesville, FL. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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