Col - That is very interesting. Thank you for sharing. Keep us posted (no pun intended) about whether the translucence was lack of packing or just the way that the thread comes out. Some people like that translucent look, so I guess now people have even more options. Tony
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Karen - Do you have photos of the #10 and #3? Thanks, Tony
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I really like the idea of chucking up that Chromaseal bottle. Great idea. Thank you. I hate have to use a mixing stick and I was using the brush to stir but that causes other issues with gunk on the ferrules of the brush. (I buy god brushes and clean them and re-use them)
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Yes, indeed. The Light formula takes much much longer to cure and I swear it evaporates or penetrates the threads (even with CP) or something so that when it starts turning the entire wrap is coated and when it is dry, there are some spots on the wrap that are "lower" or "thinner" than others. I also do not think it is rock hard durable as the regular, so I only use it for
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Craig Buley does custom orders.
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Col. Chaseling, Mike Barkley, and Fred Yarmolowicz - I am addressing you three because you mention that you do a lot of wraps with Madeira. I may have sounded confident in my posts on this thread (ha!) about using Madeira, but to be honest, I am now remembering more clearly some issues I have had with using Madeira on wraps. I built a rod quickly last Summer for a trip to Alaska, using P
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Andrew - I do not want to reproduce the entire post for fear of violating protocol, but you should search the forum for a posting from Bill Cason of Cason Custom finishes who offer a CP product. He talks specifically about CP and threads with silicon in them. He says "There is actually a good reason to let color preserver dry overnight. Even if the wrap looks dry, the fact is that it
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I like U-40 and Tru Oil but have switched entirely to a product called Outdoor Oil from General Finishes. It was made for wood, out of doors, and it feels less slick than U-40 and does not darken like Tru-Oil.
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Hey, Andrew. I had issues with fisheyes using Madeira and will not use it any longer for wraps, however it can be done. As others have suggested - 3 coats of CP (I use Chromaseal) but make sure you let the first coat dry for at least an hour and let the last coat dry 24 hours. Also, go light on the epoxy as the little bumps of all that CP become sparkle generating machines that I described
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I use single foot guides on a number of Dan Craft blanks, including the very stiff FT and they are casting machines.
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Bill, you had a bad reaction but you love the finish? I am assuming there is no issue with Chromaseal on Madeira. The ferrule wraps look fine. This supports my hypothesis because you don't need a lot of CP there, as there are no open spaces to soak in to. Tony
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JP - I am such a white boy it is not funny, but I do have some moves. Hey Now! Bill\Russ - I am sorry you had to endure this response, but to answer your questions... I am using ChromaSeal and I do not sand. I was tempted once because of this same problem of too much CP and the results were horrible. I should also mention the thread is purple which I thought "showed" more.
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Hey, man! I am honored.
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I wanted to see if anyone else had this experience. I think I have piling on so much CP it dries bumpy and looks like sugary cake icing. When over coated with epoxy, you can see light reflecting off of the little points of dried CP. It keeps going through my head --- like the first George Bush said and much parodied on SNL by Dana Carvey - "thousand points of light" I thought this
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Gabe - I would like to hear more about wicking away the exccess. I have had some issues lately with little points of light under the epoxy. My theory is that I have been piling on too much CP and it dries like sugar on there creating points where the light reflects off (under the epoxy over coating). Thanks, Tony
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I can't believe I am asking this question after building (5) fly rods, but I've had some long plane rides lately and brought along Tom Kirkman's book on rod building and on another trip Schenk's? book on building fly rods. The first thing I ever learned about rod building was when Don Morton showed me how to find the spine. Since then I have read or learned to place guides on a fly rod opposi
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I will do the test and report the results. I think even Scott Parsons would like to know for sure. Tonight I am going to sand with 800, clean off and put get it just wet with some more ChromaSeal to eliminate any scuffs.
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Tom - Luckily it is only ONE wrap, but thank you. Good idea. Tony
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I went a little heavy on a wrap and the ChromaSeal looks like a slurry created from powdered sugar and water. There are lots of little bumps and "pits" and while I know the epoxy will level out over this, I am concerned about light bouncing around in there and making a sparkling effect. I would like to knock it smooth with some 800 sandpaper. All indications are (including Scott Pa
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Thanks all who responded
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While they are called "Micro Guide" would these ties work for any guide feet on not-so-micro guides like 16 strippers through single foot 8's? I like cut sections of surgical tubing but sometimes I have to re-do a guide in between other guides and cannot slide the tubing sections down the blank. I really don't like using thin strips of tape. Thanks, Tony
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Try this guy.
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Hmmmmm. Positioning the belt sander sideways could help you see the angle of attack you are taking on the top of the feet.
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Roger - Can I ask for your guidance on using a belt sander? I just trashed a $15.00 fuji stripper because I cut off some of the length on each foot and made the rounded end in to a very unattractive "V". I think my angle of attack is wrong. HELP Thanks, Tony
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I know it's been a while, but I just trashed a $15.00 Fuji stripper and much like the boys in the airplane hangar in the movie Fletch - I need a refresher. When you use a belt sander, what angle of attack do you use? Do you try to hold the top of the guide foot flat on to the sandpaper? I have seen people roll them but again, whatever I am doing is causing me to shape the foot triangular and
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We could go on forever about all this. I may incorporate the brushing across. I have notice I can get large areas level on the butt section.
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Excellent article, Ron. Thank you. I was starting to think that the waves were caused by epoxy seeping in to the threads, but I use CP so while I thought that, I knew logically that might not be the case.
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Great. Thanks, Roger
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Thanks Joe and Roger. I bought the 3 inch grinder which looks exactly like the one in the link. I had a Delta belt sander that was working for me but it was stolen out of my garage, hence the new purchases. the grooves in the guide feet must be microscopic, eh? I am using a Unified Wheel on the grinder to smooth out the feet, so I may never see them in the end.
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I am not much of a mechanical or electrical engineer. I recently purchased a new grinder and belt sander for prepping guide feet. I want to add speed control, so I got this thing marketed as a Router Speed Control. It says it will work with "all brush type motors". The belt sander and the grinder are Central Machinery from good ole Harbor Freight. I know they are popular out ther
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