Thanks, Raymond. I will try this when I get back.
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Next time I visit, I will wear a blue uniform and carry a bag of ham
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More precise, yes. Hey, Raymond, I wanted to ask Team Cason about an issue I have seen on a recent project. I am using ProWrap thread on the American Tackle RingLock guides. Both facts are relevant because I did not have this issue on another project where I used Madeira thread on the same guides. The larger stripper guides - 16 and 20 - the feet are high and when you wrap over them, ther
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Raymond - You are defining "overnight" as "after dinner" and "after breakfast the next morning", right? Thanks, Tony
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I did not realize you country folk had mailboxes at the end of the driveway. Thanks again. You saved the day
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Ken - We have COLOR MATCH. Thanks again. It was worth the encounter with your German Shepherd. If I did not know Mitzi, I would not have gone near that front door! WOOF WOOF Tony
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Thanks, Ken! Thanks, Billy, you are correct. It would not have been the end of the world to fish three guides with black wraps, but I can make the drive out to Ken's.
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Does anyone out there have or knows where I can get some ProWrap thread on the weekend in the Baltimore\D.C. metro area? I was hummin' along on a rod that I need to finish before Wednesday and I ran out of thread! First time I have used ProWrap so I don't know how the capacity compares to other spools, but this one is done. Looking specifically for 337 Cranberry and it would be nice to contin
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Thanks, Tom. The thread is Cranberry and I will see how it turns out.
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Why do you need to color black guide feet before wrapping? Are they really going to show through the thread? Does the ground steel show through more than the titanium of a guide foot? Thanks, Tony
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Drew - In your opinion, do you need to over line the SC V? I just bought a 9 weight for throwing big streamers for Northern Pike in Canada (and Muskies, should I be on such a body of water). Thanks, Tony
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Has anyone actually built an FTXL?
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For around $200 you can get a fabulous blank made in the USA from Dan Craft
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Has anyone built out and cast an FTXL? I am looking for a blank in 10 wt. with back bone to throw large, waterlogged streamers, often on a sinking line, but still want an enjoyable casting experience. I have built (2) of the Dan Craft FT's and while I love their construction and use them a lot, I have decided I don't always like the quick, compact casting style you have to use with them.
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Thanks, all!
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Does anyone know where I can find one of these 8'6" 10/11 wt fly blanks? I have one and I do not like to build just one without having a second as backup in case of breakage. Years ago, Andy Dear was selling these as part of close out inventory from All Star.
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Interesting. What does "6 power" mean? Thanks
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Years ago at the show in High Point, I picked up a couple of blanks from Andy Dear's bins labelled "All Star IGSP 1086-2". Does anyone know what I have here? Thanks in advance. Tony
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Ah. Thanks
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Do you think this is even an All Star blank? Also, if it turns out I do not have any Austin blanks, do you have any in your inventory you can sell? Thanks, Tony
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Hey, Tom. I am not even sure I know what I have here right now. The sticker on the butt says "RXF8610-M". Do you know what this is? Thanks, Tony
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There you go. The reason for my quest for a second opinion.
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Tom - The person's issue with the Austin was that it was soft in "THE MIDDLE". I take that to mean it had backbone in the butt and of course it has to flex in the tip, but the MIDDLE was not as powerful as he would have liked. The majority of the files I will be throwing are 7" but I will have a couple few 9". Thanks, Tony
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Thanks, all. I need a second opinion. I don't mind spending money on good blanks but I have one in hand. Know what I mean?
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Anyone familiar with the Austin blank made by All Star? I will be throwing 7"-9" streamers for muskies and northern pike and need to build out a 10 weight. I have an All Star Austin 10/11 weight that I bought from Andy Dear when All Star closed its doors. I was going to build that out, but someone said that blank may be "too soft in the middle" and that I will wish I had
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Thanks, all for posting. Ken, you are right about those micro bubbles and cured me of that years ago. I still use the heat gun but definitely less time on each wrap. Before, I was using too much epoxy and had to hold it there for too long to make all the bubbles disappear, ironically creating additional bubbles that were tiny and looked like sparkles.
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Mmmmm. Tonto says "fire good". Frankenstein says "fire baaad!" Billy - The first books I read said do not touch the epoxy with flame and my teacher of this craft recommened the same thing. You can really flame these? That could be fun. Todd - I appreciate your experience with the mixer, but I still get bubbles with Threadmaster regular if I do not warm it. In fact,
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Sounds like a very controlled experiment. I look forward to hearing the results. Thanks!
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Maybe as I use the Light version more and more, I have a different reference point. As far as bubbles, I bought an epoxy mixer and wow what a difference it makes. Thanks, all. Tony
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I don't build a lot of rods so my materials may sit around for a long time. Is it possible or even generally true that an older an epoxy gets, the shorter the pot life? I am using Threadmaster and I swear this stuff is thicker and setting up more quickly than I remember. I let the bottles sit in hot water or I get bubbles like crazy. I know that heating it accelerates the cure, but never li
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