I have a Lamiglas flyrod, 10'6" 8/9 WT blank I built spinning style in 1988 that I used for everything steelheading/salmon. It casted 3/8 oz Cleos a country mile, Used to use 3/8 slip sinkers and spawn with floats in the bag, put the rod in a holder, open the bail and stuck the line under a rubber band on the butt section. Bottom bounced spawn in the rivers. Used it two years ago with a borr
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"So even if it the 2nd application didn't correct the first (and in some cases it may not) you'll never know it because the earlier application will have been encapsulated and covered by the 2nd." This is what I meant by the ice cream comparison, a has a hard shell over a soft base..
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Fred Trahan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I use the cheap brushes as well, I get them in a > tube that has a bunch of them in there from a > place that has a "hobby and a lobby". I see > bubbles when I first stick the brush in the epoxy > because of air that is trapped in the bristles, > but I'll just puff on them and they'll
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That all makes sense, and my chocolate shell over soft ice cream is not a bad comparison to encapsulating uncured finish either. He He. Thanks
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How does putting a correct ratio finish over an uncured, uncorrect ratio mix fix the problem. I've never had the issue but I would like to know how it corrects the problem. I dont doubt that it does but I cant grasp how combining an unbalanced ratio and a balanced ratio equals a balanced ratio therefor allowing a complete cure of the finish. It seems like it would be similar to putting a chocala
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I have flex coat high and light build sitting next to each other. The high build is at least two years old. The resin will crystalize and become solid. A few 8-10 second zaps, between cooling time, in the microwave returns it to it's liquid state and it performs just fine.
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Unless you have some very smooth wood dowells you wont get the feel for proper packing. You can get a 7' solid fiberglass blank from Janns Netcraft for around $11 or so, I think, and you could also use portion of it to make cork reamers or razor wands later on. See their link just to the left. Ice rod blanks are cheap also. Good Luck
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I do work with body techs all day long. I will say that they use window cleaner after scuffing to clean a panel they will be blending or a new panel that they scuffed the elpo on before painting, scuff first, clean second. Before topcoating they just use a tack rag to clean any dust particles off. I undrstand automotive finish and rod finish are also not apples to apples and I will say I respect
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Tom, Respectfully, if you are refering to scour as you do in the glossary of terms using a scotchbrite pad, I think your prep steps are out of sync. Scour, clean, coat. The final step before appling any top coat should be to clean the surface. I have had absolutely no prblem using DNA to clean. It evaporates quickly and leaves no residue and it doesnt desolve the finish. Maybe I've just been
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I would knock the high spots down, scuff the rest of the finish, clean with DNA and recoat. No sense in gambling that another coat will level it out.
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If it works dont change it...be carefull about letting flame touch the epoxy. A bubble free mix doesn't insure no bubbles either, they can come from epoxy expelling air from the thread so always check. But, a bubble free mix is always best. You can get it too warm and cause bubbles, I have with a heat gun. Now I hold my hand directly behind the wrap, if my hand cant take it, it's too hot.
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Bruce Kemp Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Until now ,and thinking about Jims statement,I had > never considered that you cant actually level a > rod.If you level on top the bottom will be off and > if you level the bottom,top will be off.I guess > Toms comment,of centerline is best you can do,is > in fact,the best you can do as that will
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That article is interesting. What has me courious is what about flexability? Did the test group that broke at the 22 lb average flex farther than the group that broke at the 23 lb range? I would think that would be the case but have no first hand proof, and that too may be so minimal that it doesnt really matter. That's some good info Tom. Thanks
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Thanks Billy.
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I was reading about your finish formulation using threadmaster and pro kote. I've never used threadmaster but I had some flexcoat lite and Pro kote. I mixed 1ml of each components A&B and have been monitering the drytime and at 5 hours it seems twice of what the pro kote is normally. I had good pot life and leveling on the one test wrap I whipped up on my lunch hour. I think at the 4 hour mar
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I use a line level but if you want to split hairs, the blank is tapered so level isnt level....actually. Center line would be a line from the center of the tip section to the center of the butt section...actually your guides are on a centerline unless spiral wrapped that is!
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I built a rainshadow 7wt switch for a customer and myself an 8wt 13' spey. Both were taken on seperate guided trips and both guides asked if they were built on loomis blanks. The guide that cast mine said it cast as well as his loomis dredger, I think that is a pretty good compliment for Batson.
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Do you know where the flakes are coming from, hands or scalp? Are you wearing a ball cap while working? Periodical adjusting a ball cap could be causing dandruff to fall. If it is that big of a problem, silicone and powder free examination gloves and wet your hair before wrapping or wear a shower cap.
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Jacob, Idont know about the brush handle your stirring with but I have had some that were not color fast and bled into the finish, which was not threamaster. Two to three minutes doesnt sound like a vey long time to mix, especially if mixing slowly.
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Batson will e-mail the recomended line weights to all their switch and spey blanks.
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That is one of the exact reasons I use tape arbors, it is pretty fool proof at centering reel seats. Unless you have a reamer or razor wand the exact taper of the blank it takes a pretty good eye to keep everything centered when reaming, and thats no gaurentee that the ream might not drift to one side either especially if epoxy has ran into one side in the ID of what your reaming, epoxy being har
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I've also noticed the brush will hold air that cause bubbles during application. I totally submerse my brush then wick the excess before pouring onto foil. The power mixers are great for a bubble free mix.
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Practice all the suggestions here, find one that works well for you and fine tune it to suit you style. I like a fast turning rod, 120 rpm using Pro Kote, one light coat, let dry 24 hrs and apply one heavier light coat , if that makes sense, and a third if necessary. I just did some practice wraps and finish tonight since I dont have another rod to build until next week. With all the method sug
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The timing of that article was good. We just had that discussion on the forum about thread is what anchors the guide and not the epoxy. How many has Roy built this way and will it hold up with basically half the wraps?
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When you guys talk about packing thread, I visualize making several wraps and then forcefully mashing them together as tightly as possible and continue the cycle until the guide wrap is complete. Or, is the meaning just closinng any gaps that just need a little nudge to close a gap. I dont "pack" thread but I'll manipulate where needed to close gaps but unless guide foot throws it off l
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Your painting over ink not paint. Ink will desolve with just about any thinner. Fixative will do the same thing if applied to heavy and it runs, takes the ink with it. Multiple lightly fogged coats is the key. I also would be leary of the lettering under the matte finish not having the lusture and clarity. Matte finishes will be shiney with clear over them but then usually it is not a transparen
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Just got my first copy Saturday also and ditto to what Don said..
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 1 1/8" rings? Odd size, every one I have ever > found was either 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" Janns net craft carries 1 1/8" rings
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Mike Barkley Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Who makes a 1 1/2" jig?? I have a couple > different sets and they are both 1 1/4. Your right guys, sorry, my bad. The jig is 1 1/4" and the rings are 1 1/8"
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Phil, I'm talking about the smaller 1 1/4 OD rings in case you missed that. I'm not worried about material lost and shimming the kerf. The jig is for 1 1/2" OD the 1 1/4" rings are too lose. How do you securley center the ring in the jig?
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