I'll have to disagree here. I've seen two ferrule failures on heavy surf rods where the builder only wrapped the ferrule about two inches. I'm holding one in my hand right now, it's a lamiglas 1502 built by a reputable builder on the outer banks. The OD at the ferrule is about .75 inches and the ferrule wrap is 2 inches. Should be enough right? Well the ferrule split above the ferrule wrap.
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That's a lot of guides, the most I ever use is 8, counting the tip top, & this is on 12-13 foot heavers.
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Any chance of a low build version Andy? I like the characteristics of the TM but it's just too thick for my taste. I'll still use it for butt wraps, but have to stay with Aftcote for the guide wraps at this point.
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Yes, I want to build this one with a short curved uni-butt. How about a stubbie blank for it? Any suggestions?
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Can a Calstar Baha Boomer be cut to fit an aftco UB2? Looking to build the ultimate bluefin stick for the upcomeing season.
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HNSG or BHNNG would be my choice.
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When you're casting the line isn't in the bail roller, so it doesn't really matter.
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Anybody else noticed the shipping cost increases lately for rods? I currently use Fedex and the rate for a 9' rod just tripled! Went from $28 to $84! Are you guys seeing this too?
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I'll see if I can get Tommy Wheeler ot reply here in greater detail, but I'll reply the best I can. Wheel's Reel's Inc. introduced the carbon fiber technology to the Hatteras surf fishing scene last year. It's taken off like a rocket (pun intended). From a user's/caster's point of view, the first thing I noticed was the extremely quick recovery during the cast. You've simply got to cast one
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Oh yeah, no foil for me either. Just apply straight from the cup. The flame I use is very "soft". It's an alcohol lamp, and I'm constantly moveing it along the length of the wrap so it doesn't get too hot. There are some epoxies that I cannot use, LS Supreme for one, because if you get a flame within 3 feet of that stuff and it boils! Aftcote and Classic Coat work well for me and
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and it seems that I do EVERYTHING wrong! But - I get good results. I mix my epoxy in a mixing cup, and I measure by eye. I do mix a minimum of 5 cc's of each though to help compensate for a less accurate mix. I use a stainless thread pick to mix with. It's never let me down. I use this same thread pic as a spatula. I dilute my first coat of epoxy with MEK by about 10%. I do use a
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I just did this useing auto touch up paint, the brush on kind. Taped it off and brushed it on. Less messy than spray paint.
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Very POWERFUL blanks. While they are not the lightest, their power is simply amazing. The more I throw these things the more I like them. The recovery is just incredible. They WILL outcast anything else on the market with 8-n-bait by a large margin. This isn't hype, just fact. It takes a good caster to fully load them and get the distance, but IF you can load it you'll definately see an inc
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The 8 foot rod gives you better casting range from the boat. I've got two guides out of Hatteras that use these exclusively for sight casting to drum/cobia. This rod fights a fish extremely well, no doubt a 7' rod may be better, but the trade off on the long range casts you sometimes need to reach spooky fish is worth it. And a 4000 size Shimano or Daiwa spinning reel with 20# braid will do th
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My favorite is the Rainshadow SW 967. Plain ole' fuji graphite reel seat, cork tape butt, cork grip, double foot hardaloys and you got a fishing machine! Perfect with a 4000 size spinning reel loaded with braid and a 3oz bucktail on the other end. Striper, drum, cobia, it's great for them all.
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Be CAREFUL using braid as a shock leader. Braid is not very abrasion resistant at all. It WILL crack off after a few casts if using a fish finder rig. Also, if you are landing a large fish in the surf, DO NOT grab the braided line! You WILL get a nasty cut - or worse.
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Just turn the clicker on & forget about it. If you MUST see it then the chem lights taped on are your best bet.
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The only rod's I'll put 16's on are true heavers where 20# main line and 50# shock line is used. I usually still use 12's for these, but some people still prefer 16's. For knots, first double your main line with a bimini twist, braided loop, or triple surgeons, then connect the loop to your shock leader with a no-name or double uni.
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For an 8' rod, the Rainshadow IP 965 is great as well. I've used it hard this year and caught probably close to 75 red's on it and it's held up very well. It's good for mirror lures, grubs, and up to about 1.5 ounces. I fished it mostly with 1oz and bait this fall for the reds with a stradic 2000. It's got a very light tip and still lots of backbone to handle larger fish. I landed one red th
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I just use masking tape to blot the dust off, haven't had any problems with the finish either.
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"A" under and "D" over makes life simple.
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Only by request, it does lower the profile of the reel somewhat on that fat butt. I use the one with the white inserts - FS7?
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Fuji NSG's or equivilent. 30, 25, 20, 16, 16, 16, & a 16tiptop(MNST). Underwrap with "A" and overwrap with "D".
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Hope it's a good one!
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I'm going to guess that it wasn't fully cured. I had this happen to me with epoxy one time. I was in a rush and was going to try and fish the rod one weekend and put the epoxy on thursday night. Friday morning I was cleaning the rod up with denatured alcohol, and the alcohol took off the epoxy in places just as you describe. I attributed mine to the epoxy not being fully cured, have never had
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They're now called "BigCatch" and I believe are only available in black. If you need a contact for Wayne or Tres let me know.
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Here's another option for coasters.
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Calstar 655XXH, trimmed from the but to fit into an Aftco UB2SC unibutt. Rod will be just about 5'6" total length, but you have the couved butt to your advantage. Trim it a little shorter if you like. Aftco wind on guides and your set to go.
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If you're haveing trouble with the metallics tearing while wrapping, try the @#$%& thread tensioner - works very well.
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Couple of questions - 1) I assume the 60% rule is still in effect for smalls? 2) When is a sale concidered complete? When you receive the money or when you deliver the rod? I always get money up front, but may not deliver the rod for another month. This could be important in September.
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