Ben, if you want to contact seller then email me and I'll reply.
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Where in Aus are you? I'm in Perth and just bought some 10' 2 piece blanks from a rod builder who's retiring and getting rid of stock. He says they're from Thailand. Anyhow, they're very light weighing 162gm. Will easily handle 65gm as max casting weight is definitely more than that. Will not put the price here but suffice to say that it's nowhere near mentioned above but then it's unbranded. Not
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I agree with Tom that rods have a sweet spot. Generally, I find that if you take the difference in the range specified, divide by 2 and add the lowest weight in the range that will get you pretty close to the sweet spot.
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As a guide Daiwa's JigCaster rods uses Fuji alconite guides but a Sic tip top. What disappoints me is the poor quality that some manufacturers use especially in the budget range. I guess being budget says it all but don't forget they buy in the thousands and their costs per unit is low compared to what you and I pay. Rant over, if you can afford, use titanium to avoid corrosion problems. Stainles
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Ok, just thought I'll finish this thread with my experience in actual doing the repair. It didn't go as smoothly as anticipated. Firstly, don't use 5 minute epoxy there's just not enough time. Using a straw to keep female ferrule clean didn't work as epoxy started to stick in it rather than act as lubricant. Had to discard that and just push inner sleeve into place. After that use solvent to clea
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Ok, just thought I'll finish this thread with my experience in actual doing the repair. It didn't go as smoothly as anticipated. Firstly, don't use 5 minute epoxy there's just not enough time. Using a straw to keep female ferrule clean didn't work as epoxy started to stick in it rather than act as lubricant. Had to discard that and just push inner sleeve into place. After that use solvent to clea
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Ferrule lube still available under Renzetti brand
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Being cheap and fact that I usually have epoxy around means that's what I use for tip tops. Glue gun with stick is all very well but that's at home. What about when you're in the middle of nowhere? I know you can use matches or lighter with hot melt but not sure about glue stick. Anyway, I've never had a tip top come off with 5 min epoxy. If you can't wait well Loctite now sells 1 min epoxy
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Yes, have read the repair article but doesn't explain intricacies of flexing although prob not all that necessary. It's just that I enjoy such info. One thing I'm a little apprehensive is using 5 minute epoxy. It doesn't flex well. I may have to research to see which epoxy is best for flex.
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Bill I will cut the rod if my fix doesn't work. One thing I will do is to ease the pressure of the inner sleeve on the inside of the rod when it flexes. I thought of slitting at both ends but the slits themselves may fracture further. Another way is to cut the inner sleeve at an angle of more than 45 degrees and place the longer bit on top. This ought to work just as well. Not sure which will be
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Bill, I definitely need Q tips ready to clean the ferrule and longer ones at that. I hear what you're saying about regular epoxy with more time to clean up but the problem is that Loctite self mix only come in 1 or 5 minute. Having the syringe to distribute the epoxy is useful, indeed needed, in my situation to keep the ferrule clean. One further thing that I'll be doing is to chamfer and slit th
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Tom, answer to your question is yes because the break is well away from the ferrule and the repair piece will be cut to clear the ferrule and allow for future wear. I have measured and tested the repair piece for fit under the break. The tricky bit is gluing the repair piece in place without contaminating the ferrule with glue. Plastic drinking straw comes to mind to protect the ferrule but so f
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Thanks, guys. Looks like I'll be sleeving it but from the inside. I do have a piece that I can prepare and glue it inside then bind outside. I've done this before and it works. Most of the action is above it anyway. I was hoping that I epoxy the split. Another way is to laminate new carbon fibre cloth with resin over it. More expensive as I don't have any stuff. Carbonmod sells a kit for about 30
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Tom, thanks for quick reply. The start of the split is 7" from end of the ferrule and is 2" long. I guess I was hoping not to need to sleeve it. Was going to first push epoxy into split as well as over it. Then bind and epoxy binding and maybe do this twice. Carbonmod has youtube showing how to use their kit and it maybe that I'll need to do it that way. btw, rod is an 8kg
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For a 10 foot 2 piece rod, I have a couple of longitudanal cracks in the tip half starting about 7" from end of the joint. The longest crack is 2". A guide will be placed there after repair. Question is how will you repair it. If I bind it and epoxy each layer for about 2/3 layers, will that be strong enough not forgetting I'll be also binding a guide on the top of it? do I need to reso
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I don't mind ordering from Mudhole if only the darn postage wasn't so much to Australia. Shipping really kills the price of the products unless you're ordering heaps.
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Don, thanks for the tip. Pencil is mainly graphite with some kind of adhesive and graphite is a good lubricant, hmm. The rods I want to use lube on are all spigot type.
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Living in Western Australia sometimes feels like being at the edge of the world. Although with internet most things can be obtained it comes at a cost, shipping cost that is. I will like to purchase a bottle of Renzetti Ferrule Lube, as the U40 one is no longer avail, but Mudhole as an example wants an extra $20 for shipping!! US postal service has First Class International as the cheapest shippi
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Using NGC the choker guide is the smallest as all the rest of the guides to the tip are the same size. I guess this includes the tip top. In his NGC primer Tom has given examples of a couple of ring sizes depending on what line size will be used. I think this is more related to the fact that lines are often joined and therefore the rings need to be big enough to let the knot thru. I know some use
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Just googled 'non acetone nail polish remover' and explanation states that it contains ethanol and acetic acid. Effect on epoxy? I have no idea but am trialling it. ken
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On two piece rods sometimes the ferrules stick or are jammed so much that you can't separate them. Often it's lack of appropriate grip. You could use the nearest guides but you risk ripping them off. With this in mind I looked for an appropriate grip that I wil also be happy with how it looked. What I tried was using ordinary sewing thread. This is usually hairy and after sealing with cp I finish
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I'm using Flexcoat syringes and I sure wish someone had warned about the fact that their markings come off easy. Didn't know until too late. Have to manually mark and will seal it with the epoxy next time I'm using a batch. I know they don't cost much but unlike medical ones which are only one use, we use ours several times until they wear out. Surely FC can use markings that are more permanent.
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Paul, don't be put off if you cant get Threadmaster where you live. I am in Perth Western Australia and there's no Threadmaster supply here. I ordered from US and it still landed here at reasonable price. The drying times and quality finish make it worthwhile. You won't regret trying it.
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Eugene, thanks for your explanation. I did mean loading so stress was appropriate. You say the max load will be where the blank is stiffest. I am in the middle of putting a new butt guide on a rod and found that with the reel on and putting the line thru the guides and attaching the line to a pole and bending the rod the butt guide's load was not a lot. To me this meant that most of the load alre
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Couldn't find the info I want so starting this. Assuming the guides and tip top have been placed in optimal position, I imagine that the tip top receives the most stress/pressure when the rod is bent. The guides on the parabolic receive fairly evenly distributed pressure and the butt guide will be the least pressured. Does anyone know of any tests already done as this can't be new?
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In the Fuji brand the tip tops are different in height to the matching guide. Have asked Fuji about why but no answer yet. Could it be that the tip tops need to be shorter so that there is an even distribution of stress on the rod? Does anyone know? Some of you are using one size bigger tip top than the nearest guide but this may not be the right thing to do even if it is more aesthetic.
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Just another thought that cp may help to facilitate removal of thread should you need to shift or replace a guide. The threads should come off more cleanly off the blank. I had to remove some guides off a newly built rod which I didn't cp and cleaning up the blank wasn't fun.
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Why in the world will you buy blanks with no info?!! A bargain is not a bargain if you have no need for it.
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According to Dale Clemens, cp does more than just to preserve color. He says it is essential as it displaces air in the wraps and provides a smooth finish for your final coat.
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TC, I presume you're using HT metallic and as overbinding? The previous metallic thread not strong enough as overbinding according to many? Anyway, I'm not going to use CP at all as only using black and metallic silver for trim. Didn't know that Gudebrod used chalk in the dye for NCP. kk
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