You haven't mentioned a budget and that could dictate your choice. If money no object then go Sic. Otherwise hardloy. I dont see any benefit in Alconite which I believe to simply be a better quality alu oxide type. No experience with Zirconia or Nanolite so cant comment on those. Although I was attempting to get Alps Zirconia xn rings at one point but in my part of the world no one carry it not e
Forum: rodboard

Did a search and came up empty so hence this comment. Probably not new to a lot of you but I noticed that black ain't necessarily black even from the same brand. I've been using Gudebrod regular A as underbinding and NCP C as overbinding. During doing the first overbinding is when I noticed that the NCP black is different to the regular. It could be simply the fact that the NCP already has color
Forum: rodboard

I'm building a couple of 8 foot 2 piece rods based on a 250/2 Purglas blank. Now I've bound the guides on the top tip half of the blank. Purglas blanks ferrules are spigot type. My question is how to determine where the butt guide and reel seat will go on the butt half of the blank. You see the thing is that I've had a bad experience with a glass to glass ferrule in that after binding all the gui
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Tom, thanks for the article but that's the one I've been following. Spence, the choker guide for my rod & reel is 61 inches which is close enough. There has to be some variances depending on the upsweep of the reel to be used. Thanks for advice.
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I think it is not a Fuji but closely using their model nos.
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US Fuji's recipe for an 8' rod doesn't seem to follow Fuji's own rules for their new guide concept. Or maybe it does and if so then I am missing something (which could be true regardless). anyway, my reason for saying this is how the placement has gone for my own 8 foot rod. I place the reel seat 16" from butt end. Reel seat is 5". Mounting reel on seat and lining it up in accord with F
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I have been using masking tape and have had no problems. Oldest rod is a fibreglass about 30 years and biggest fish is a 20kg mackeral on it. Used epoxy. Works fine if you take care of your rods. Didn't know anything about arbors, etc in those days and I think none available anyway. Easy system to center reel seat. With enough epoxy to seal the ends the masking tape should not deteriorate.
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Came across this guide but can't find it locally. In Fuji terms B is black S is Sic G is guide but what is LNL for a double foot guide. Can someone illuminate? Also, what's the overall height as well as the height to the top of the inner ring for a #10? I assume in this range the #10 is the same as in other ranges.
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Upon further reflection I've now decided not to extend the blank as I'll be using rod to cast lures and the total weight of rod plus reel is more important than length in being able to cast all day with it. Keeping the weight of rod down is, I reckon, the more important. The difference in length is only about 8 inches and whilst I don't know how much casting distance that relates to I'll be hopef
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Jason, it's a 20/30lb salt water rod. It'll be used mainly for lures esp metal lures between 40 - 100gm (1.5 - 3.5oz). I checked with the tackle shop where I got my blank and noted that their rodbuilder uses Fuji Hardloy on the same blanks. There should be no problem for me to use the same. Frame stylewise, as I'll be using Fuji's new guide concept in locating the guides I may as well get the ri
Forum: rodboard

I'll be using heat shrink for grip but want to know from those of you who have used it whether you glue the blank or not. If no glue does the tubing grip blank tight enough not to move, esp when you have a good fish on. Also, are there any tips or advise you can give to do the heat shrinking. ken
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Just want to report that I found the Rodmakers article which is very useful. I'll be oversleeving with an appropriate piece of aluminium tubing which I can then cover with heat shrink. Article answered all my basic questions. Superb. ken
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Will go look for article, thanks
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Being in Western Australia we don't get some brands like you do in US. I see that Danvilles seems a popular thread for fly tying. What's it like for rod building and is their size E the same as Gudebrod's for thickness and strength? ken
Forum: rodboard

For a 20 - 30 lb carbon rod, I intend to use a Sic tip but not sure about the rest of the guides. Rod will be used with both mono & braid. Do you think Hardloy good enough or should I go for Sic all the way. Double the costs and isn't Sic more brittle and prone to breakage? Also, while I'll be underbinding would you overbind with single or double. Will be using size C or D thread. ken
Forum: rodboard

Hi, I'm new here but have been building rods for my own pleasure for years. Need some ideas on extending a butt on a new blank I just acquired. It's a carbon fibre 250/2 Purglas ie an 8ft 2piece blank, 8 - 12 kg rate. I'd like to extend the butt by 6-8 inches. Thinking that I may use pieces from a fibreglass rod or aluminium tube and stick it inside as a spigot. Alternatively, get a piece to fit
Forum: rodboard