I would not use TOS for such small difference in circumference. To prevent gapping as described I would continue to wrap thread until the wrap closes in the areas with the slightly wider spacing. At the end with the narrower spacing thread may become stacked and lay over itself a little but this is not a problem if you're using a dark thread, i.e. black nylon, it becomes indistinguishable. Wit
Forum: rodboard

I nuke both both the LS Supreme resin and hardener. I guess I have not been following instructions, but have not have any problems. Warm finish, do not over heat. Lou
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Look at the Rainshadow SU1266F and the slightly heavier SU1267 - they make fine rods for casting plugs and metal from the beach. Lou
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In the early 90s I bought closeout from a going out of business sale lots of Gudebrod thread that I still have a good amount of. It is all on wood spools. I haven't had trouble with it breaking while wrapping. Patrick I was going to suggest burning off the fuzzies prior to finishes but I see you already tried that. usually that takes care of the problem. Lou
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Yes, good idea to NEVER open mail from suspicious origins. I'm never even get a chance to open such an email. If the domain is a source or spam the mail server or firewall blocks it, or if gets through then the constantly running anti-virus software detects the signature of virus or trojan horse and is automatically trashed. Lou
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Cut a small test piece, place it on blank, and shrink it. That will tell you for sure if it will shrink enough. I use this material often on heavy surf rods (heavers). Make sure the flock pattern is lined up as needed, not twisted, or offset from the axis of the the guides. I like to use a thin coat of rod finish on the rod blank before shrinking the material down using a commercial grade heat
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I think I am going to load up on thread that i use the most. Lets hope that they're just cutting back and not closing altogether. Lou
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Along the VA/NC coast powerful surf rods are used to launch heavy payloads of lead (8-10oz+) and bait at distant sand bars when fishing for big fish in the surf. In this realm 99% of the reels are conventional. They allow for excellent casting distance, line control, and casting accuracy. Casting these heavy weights while not impossible becomes difficult with a spinning outfit. Some sort of line
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Before you moved a rod with fresh curing finish from a cold room to a warm....... I moved a rod with a first coat of finish from a cold unheated room to one that was at room temp. It was the first coat, a thin one, that had been applied about 60 min prior. Everything looked good, no bubbles, no lint, no drips. Moved the rod to the warm space and placed in the rod lathe for this first coat to c
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I rebuilt a rod 50lb class rod coming from a similar situation, this rod had been immersed in salt water for quite some time. The guides and aftco unibutt were well corroded, but the rod blank and thread work still looked nice except for a few minor scuffs. Removed the roller guides without disturbing the underwraps and installed new ringed guides wrapped with black nylon, and finished. Installe
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Here is a pic of the way I do it. This one has a palm support wrapped with the plate seat, but not necessary. Hope its viewable. Lou Reyna
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Click on Norton Internet Security icon, click on Personal Firewall, click on Configure, click on Networking, make sure "individually: is selected an type in the url "www.rodbuilding.org" and click ok. This forces Norton firewall to allow content from this website. Lou
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That small chop saw I've posted about here that I also used to cut through blanks, using the same typical cut off wheel, cuts through a reel seat like butter. Word of warning though, if you loiter too long while cutting it the high speed wheel will melt and smear the material. In other words, a smooth continuous cut taking only as long a time as necessary is needed. Will try the tape trick as DR
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It's not so hard to use you real name on the board. It does make it kinda hard to forget what your registration name is!! On the topic of visible or non-visible e-mail addresses, register and use an address specifically obtained for online registrations. I agree with Tom on email addresses - I have received valuable information via private e-mail. On the other hand I have once or twice receive
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If you don't like the feather butt end of the blank trim it off. Like it was said it won't have an effect on performance if you do so or not. I would trim it only to make parts fit, etc. Over the years I have built quite a few rods from gator glass blanks mainly boat rods - they are a cheap but a very tough blank, have never seen one broken. Lou
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Actually depend on your perspective. There is a LESS and a MORE command in UNIX. Therein Less is more, More is less. Or something to that effect.... This thread is going nowhere.... Lou
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On that class of rod that is likely to weigh over 16 oz with loaded reel attached the elimination of the underwrap will not be noticeable. I would not use jeans patch material and would instead opt for a standard rod building underwrap. Since the rig is fished from the rocks, stuck in the rocks, I would strive to make the rod as tough and as heavy duty as possible. I agree with the titanium guide
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I did not realize you need a special blade to cut through these materials. I have bee using the same mini cut-off saw with the same generic off the shelf aluminum oxide type cut-off wheel, both from harborfreight, that I wrote about here. The device has a small footprint and alignment bevels to keep the work straight. Lou
Forum: rodboard

There is another characteristic of using CP on black nylon thread - the black nylon thread will take on a dull greenish tint to it that also appear to sparkle like as if tiny crystals have formed on the surface of the thread. These tint and sparkles are not so evident until a coat of finish has been applied over the CP treated black nylon thread. A solution to this problem apparently exists. M
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I could not get reel seats to budge either by soaking in a hot liquid. Attempted this a couple of times. The user that flamed me via e-mail recently may say once again I am doing it wrong, but I do not know of any other way of boiling water other than putting it in a container and then pacing it over a heat source to bring its temp up. I did one better - filled a 3" steel pipe up capped o
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Not long ago a message someone posted a message here that caused me to look into coloring paste epoxy (kardol and rod bond). I have all the TAP pigments listed on their website, and a wide variety of testor paint pigments. I mixed up samples of both paste epoxy types and colored them with the TAP pigments. As you know paste epoxy is way to thick to allow bubbles to escape on their own. When
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Not the way I applied the stuff - I was quoting manufacturer's recommended technique. Why in the world a manufacturer would list instructions that lead to product to failure is beyond me. Makes for poor business. Instructions on the botte: "DIRECTIONS: Before coating rod apply several thin coats of Color Preserver. Wipe access, allowing ample time between coats for original color to re
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Hey Robert, finally, got you to post! If uneven wetting is not all that common why does it occur at all? A search using the board's archives searching for "cp uneven" returns hits all the way back to Dec 2001. Using different search strings turns up even more hits. The reason I used this search string as an example is because the first hit on this search was by non other than Mike B
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Lifetime on workmanship, manufacturer's warranty on parts (in any). Discounted, if not free, guide replacements. Lou
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Sounds to like uneven thread wetting by the cp, probably due to contamination of the thread from either the your hands, tools, the blank itself, or bad thread from the factory. IMHO what you report is a common problem. RobG, another user here seems to have a pretty good handle on issues with CP use. You may want to drop him an email directly to see what he recommends. Lou
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There is a rod blank that comes very very close to not having a spine at all, Hextek made by Cape Fear. I will not say they do not have a spine because technically they have multiple spines - all small and pretty much equivalent. I have worked on a few of these rods and have always found them to be without a dominant spine. Regardless, even if a rod is spined correctly and guides wrapped in
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Happy Thanksgiving to you and ALL here on RBO! No wrapping for me today, my fingers will be too oily from wolfing down turkey and all the other goodies on the table! Lou
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I apply the finish the old fashion way of one light coat and immediately placing the rod guides down. This allows the finish to slowly wick through the thread displacing all visible air bubbles. Important not to cover the tunnel openings with a glob of finish when you do this to allow the air to easily escape. As the air escapes the tunnel is gradually filled completely with finish. Follow up wit
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I align the guides beginning with the stripper guide like Lock does, then work my way to the tip. I do this before the rod comes off the lathe - the lathe keeping the rod straight. Then lastly I bond the tip top on with 5-min epoxy closely aligning it to the stripper guide. I do the alignment with the guides down orientation of the rod, then after I feel they're close I pickup the rod and while h
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Hah! Mike beat me to it. I had the same thing happen to me - had a cork grip partially bonded to a mandrel. Most of the mandrel was coated with paraffin wax, except for a section. Like Mike suggested I heated the mandrel with a torch and the epoxy released and grip came right off. Had the mandrel mounted in a vice with wood pieces protecting the mandrel. Can't see why you should not coat a man
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