I think he's referring to a simple +1 thread sequence. Personally I like to make them a little elongated not square. Lou
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I dislike cleanup so I use plastic spoons to scoop out what I need then toss the spoons. For a container I use small papercups that I also toss in the trash after I am done using the mix. Popsicle sticks to mix. I have both Rod bond and Kardol paste epoxies on my bench and I have found, as others have, that the recommended 50:50 mix ratio is not critical. Anything close works just as well. This
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Grind through the tip-top tube. Lou
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Gudebrod green nylon trimmed with metallic thread color of choice. Lou
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Normally on heavy guides such as these I overwrap with two layers of D thread and apply the finish last. Wrap the thread ONTO the guide foot on up to the frame, then without cutting the thread wrap BACK DOWN away from the frame and off the guide foot. Lou
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You are seeing fish-eyes as the finish is repelled from spots on the wood. Something in the wood is causing this repelling of an even coat of finish. You stumbled onto something I sometimes do when I encounter a problem wrap that "resists" finish as you call it. Most often I have this problem with a repair of an existing rod that has had wax or furniture polish applied by the user i
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Chris, it is also a Fuji palm support that you see in the pic. You have to wrap the palm support 1st and finish before wrapping and finishing the plate seat. The fwd wrap on the palm support has two coats on it before the plate seat goes on because some of its wrap remains exposed under the plate seat frame and would be impossible to finish with the plate seat already mounted. Look the pic closel
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You don't have to cover the end of the plate seat as mentioned, but I wrap plate seats so that the ends are covered. I grind the ends of the plate seat like you would a guide foot to taper the transition for the thread. Then finish as usual. This pic is one I've posted here before, one of a plate seat with a palm support, but shows the same idea. Lou <img src=http://members.cox.net/fi
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Make the taper with "D" thread or whatever size/color you want. Finish in the usual way. Making it of mostly thread allows for a thinner coat of finish. Lou
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I think the the Rodmaker Cork Grade Scale was published back in early 2005. I don't know if got out to all sellers of cork rings but it cannot hurt to ask that way buyer and seller are on the same page when discussing quality of cork. Lou
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I would give the thread to build up a good fit on the tip top. Wrap thread in a narrow band wide enough and tall enough to stabilize the tip top. Bond in the typical manner with fast setting epoxy (or slow set if you wish). I have done a few this way with good results and durability. As you mentioned an extension (plug) made out of solid fiberglass blank to fit inside the blank tip to extend
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Go to your local hardware store and purchase appliance epoxy paint. Colors are limited but black or white are widely available. Epoxy paint flexes, does not chip, and does not need to be top coated with a clear coat. It is easy to apply right out of the spray can. Lou
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Your firewall if you're using a Norton product. You need to configure it. A search of previous posts on this topic has your answer. Lou
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I would have made it 1,745.
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Looking forward to it, see what new goodies you'all have this year... Lou
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As skip mentioned he does I've had to paint the blank 1st with krylon white spray paint primer which is flat in color before using cp on certain color combos when doing repairs. I got burned a few times by cp before I stopped using it, so I am not much help here. It's a shame you had to strip your threadwork and redo it again. Time and thread wasted. Robert Greene, another user here, is qu
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I have a set of six 16" spade drill bits that I bought for less that $10 at Northern Handyman. A couple of these I modded (1/4" tubbing attached to point) for boring cork in the "usual" manner, never thought about pulling these bits "backwards" through the cork grip. I'll be grinding an edge onto these as soon as I build a jig for the grinder. Lou
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Robert Greene, during a recent private e-mail exchange he had with me, and a post here on this board, suggested he had the answer to this very problem. Apparently if you do not follow the directions on the bottle this will happen, but I'm still puzzled since the directions on the bottle are pretty straight forward. I could never solve why SOME thread becomes mottled like this, other does not
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You risk damaging the blank anytime heat is applied esp in a light rod. What would cost more to replace - a tip top or the blank? It's a no brainer - destructively remove the tip top making no effort to "save" it. I do this by carefully grinding through the tip top tube metal the entire length of the tube. Cut the ring frame away so only the tube is left, then start near tip, then w
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Drop the grip onto the blank. Mark where the top of the grip rests. Lube from that point downward to the reel seat with epoxy of choice. Using thumb and forefinger forming an "O" loosely grip the very top of grip and in one continuous motion slide the grip all the way to the reel seat. Once grip is seated against reel seat massage grip to relax it to its natural state, knead and compres
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The blank overlap over the solid plug that Jesse is suggesting is plenty. An example of similar strength: the ferrule on an a Aftco unibutt - the blank fits into the ferrule portion only approx 2.5". Lou
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When I was using one of these "cement mixers" I did not use a bead at all opting instead to use a swizzle stick held stationary using a small goose-necked alligator clip on a weighted base to hold the stick stationary while the cup rotates. A simple positioning of the cup vs. the swizzle stick allows for pretty close scavenging of the sides of the cup for a more thorough mix. The cup wa
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You picked a nice blank for this. I agree with a slickbutt, better yet I would use a unibutt. Don't forget the ferrule nut during assembly. I've built many with rollers, but for my own use most all the rods for my boat are made with ringed guides for ease of use and maintenance. They've done well on everything up to 150lbs. Fish any heavier than that I should not be messing with I figure......
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I second jon edwards - I don't even look at the color of the material in the bottle. Of more concern to me is the yellowing of the material as it ages AFTER it has been applied to the rod. Of concern to me too is the the finish wetting and thread penetrating characteristics, but dislike water-like consistency. Prefer a material that has some cling to it and not have it drip off while its being ap
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IMHO cork is as durable as you are are careful with it. I have not seen noticeable damage from saltwater use. I have seen cork butt grips that have spent time in a rod holder = destroyed. It stains easily and is delicate when compared to other grip materials. Least durable in the boat environment. As you mentioned eva takes on a memory of pressure points it is experiencing and remains dented e
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Look at the Lami GSB-1502, or the similar blank Mud Hole Tackle branded LSB1502MH. Also look at the Rainshadow SU1508F or its more powerful cousin SU1509F. Any of these blanks make excellent heavers for drum fishing the point. I am somewhat partial to the 1508F since it is easier to load with my old arms. I would not recommend the 1509F a beginner or novice surf caster since it is quite st
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Since digital "film" does not cost anything I take ALOT of pictures, discard most, and keep the better ones. I use an older Cannon S100 Powershot digital camera. Its close macro (tulip) mode works great. I set it up either in a tripod or hold it in my hand. Yes, in my hand some shots are blurry, but like I said I discard many shots and keep the rest. A key to keep the blurriness down i
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Based on my best experience you can count on most of it going to waste before using the entire bottle, unless you use lots of the material. This may have already been discussed here before - one way to maximize the amount of time the material lasts is to remove as much air as possible from its container. One thing I ave done is to split the original container into smaller quantities using bott
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I stopped being a Penn fan some years ago - all my 30 and 50lb class "gold" offshore stuff is NOT Penn International. IMHO Penn began going down hill in my book when they began using graphite frames on their spinning reels. Since then I have grown wary of some of their other reels. I still have some of their 320 and 330 gti level-wind reels - they're excellent inshore trolling reels.
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Paste epoxy works as already mentioned. Ever notice, however, that manufacturers plug these same holes with a flexible rubber-like material? IMHO there is a reason for this. If you want to plug rod tips / butt ends with a material that is rubber-like in consistency use 3Mâ„¢ Marine Adhesive/Sealant 4200 or 5200. They cure to hard rubber like state. Also, both materials can be removed more easi
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