I agree with Tom for the sizes. I just built 2 of the same rods and it didn't take no more than 10 guides plus top. If you plan on using the smaller guides get you some rubber bands for braces this will make life alot easier. have atleast 2 blocking wraps after your locking wraps I tend to go 3 most of the time. JMO
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Please explain action is it where the rod bends or is it the recovery time it takes to get back to a straight axis? I always thought it was in the tip not where it bends at. Like take a medium light fast it will flex alot further than a heavy fast right?
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How does it not change the power? I have a 7-6 heavy fast action if I cut it in half I dont have a heavy rod no more and the still is a fast action. Am I thinking about this the wrong way?
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I took some new thread and pulled it till it broke then I took this old thread and did the same thing. Just by my feel the older thread broke fairly easier than the newer thread. They both look to be size A. Should I wrap a guide on a dowel and pull test if so what should be the the break point roughly in pounds. Yes that was the first thing I ddid it was dirty.
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Tom how is that so when the adhesive is all the way to thebare blank and there is no 2 or 3 layer bonds. Isn't a rough surface a bettter bond than a smooth surface. I understand if the dust isn't cleaned off it could result in failure but I just don't understand your theory.
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Yesterday I went to a local tackle shop that use to build rods. I found some spools of gudebrod and fish hawk thread that seemed a little aged are they any good? Does thread get weaker withage? I also came across to wooden spools of thread with no names. One is marked 6778 NCP 1 oz. should i use these on guide wraps or not?
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If I was let's say advid bass fisherman and I'm interested in geting some new rods. I run into you at a local tackle store or even a gas station. What would be your words as to why I should look into or buy a custom rod?I'm one of those who shop the big department stores but I but the high end rods off the shelf.How would you sell yourself and your rods?
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I think I understand what's being said here and I had a thought. If what I understood about the 2 different crankbaits with 1 rod could it be possible to take a 7'-6" rod and make the real seat adjustable with the butt attached? Wouldn't you basicaly have the 2 rods in which you'r looking for. Let's say it's a 7-6 m that can be brought down to a 6-6 wouldn't it gain power. I'm not sure if th
Forum: rodboard

I think I understand what's being said here and I had a thought. If what I understood about the 2 different crankbaits with 1 rod could it be possible to take a 7'-6" rod and make the real seat adjustable with the butt attached? Wouldn't you basicaly have the 2 rods in which you'r looking for. Let's say it's a 7-6 m that can be brought down to a 6-6 wouldn't it gain power. I'm not sure if th
Forum: rodboard

I think I understand what's being said here and I had a thought. If what I understood about the 2 different crankbaits with 1 rod could it be possible to take a 7'-6" rod and make the real seat adjustable with the butt attached? Wouldn't you basicaly have the 2 rods in which you'r looking for. Let's say it's a 7-6 m that can be brought down to a 6-6 wouldn't it gain power. I'm not sure if th
Forum: rodboard

I think I understand what's being said here and I had a thought. If what I understood about the 2 different crankbaits with 1 rod could it be possible to take a 7'-6" rod and make the real seat adjustable with the butt attached? Wouldn't you basicaly have the 2 rods in which you'r looking for. Let's say it's a 7-6 m that can be brought down to a 6-6 wouldn't it gain power. I'm not sure if th
Forum: rodboard

I think I understand what's being said here and I had a thought. If what I understood about the 2 different crankbaits with 1 rod could it be possible to take a 7'-6" rod and make the real seat adjustable with the butt attached? Wouldn't you basicaly have the 2 rods in which you'r looking for. Let's say it's a 7-6 m that can be brought down to a 6-6 wouldn't it gain power. I'm not sure if th
Forum: rodboard

I think I understand what's being said here and I had a thought. If what I understood about the 2 different crankbaits with 1 rod could it be possible to take a 7'-6" rod and make the real seat adjustable with the butt attached? Wouldn't you basicaly have the 2 rods in which you'r looking for. Let's say it's a 7-6 m that can be brought down to a 6-6 wouldn't it gain power. I'm not sure if th
Forum: rodboard

I live in New Orleans La I am fortunate to have Mr. Bill Stevens live near by and Lance Dupre from Swampland. The only person I can blame is myself because these guys have helped me more than enough and keep inviting me to there shop to learn more. I just haven't made the time to do so. I no I should've along time ago but there is no buts. I've just haven't run acrossany problems until now. It wa
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Thanks fella's this will in no way get me down or stop me from buiding. It was defently a learning experience for me. I guess it's back to the drawing boards on the this one.
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I finaly get my chance to build a rod that might take my hobby one step up. I was to build a heavy flipping stick to pull the bass out the thick grass for a guy who fish's for the LSU fishing team. I chose a Castaway bb2 (white) blank from Swampland with American Tackle micro guides all the way up. It has a Pac Bay split seat with custom cork trimmed out with nice checks. It was going to be a ver
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metalic blue is a fire combo
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American Tackle
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A lil heat and a old credit card
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He's a first class southerner
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I was just wondering what does everyone use to glue the tip top on? I have been using the tip top glue but I'm hsveing trouble wwith it sticking. I sand the area down I even scrapped it with a knife. Can I use epoxy that way it'll never come loose?
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I would say start with a kit on your first build so you know what's all invovled in building a rod from the size of the reel seat to the winding checks to the guides you will need for your build. Most of the venders will help you with a kit or have some prepared.
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Exactly Joe they don't move till you start reeling. Therefore it don't matter what size you start with becouse the level wind tames the line right out the reel.
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Can you explain what you mean by the lever arm affect?
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Thanks Tom and Bill. I do read alot on the search engine it's just that people do things different and I'm trying to make sense of the why. It's realy the static testing that's geting me. With micro's more or less isbetter? does more affect the distance? On a 7' rod if I put 8 or 11 it looks right but is the blank properly loaded?
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Here's what I'm looking at with the spine. All the guides on top the spine is at 90 degrees. When the blank is loaded I can see how the guides would want to roll the the path of least resistance. example... Take a 1/4x1"x6' peice og whatever and put the guides on the 1/4" side then loade it. Perfectly up and down the stick won't twist. Start torking the stick to the side it will want to
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Lets start with static testing. I got 2 rod right now I'm building. The first one is 7' mh fast the seconf is 7'-6" xh fast. I started with the 7' buid. I put 10 micro's on the rod plus the tip and ran the line like I'm suppose to. When I did the test the first time I ended up with 9 guides left which is right so I thought. I did it again and I had 10 guides on the blank left. I understand I
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venice is my back yard so as far as redfish the last thing you want is a light rod. Pound for pound the have one of the stongest fights. I would go with a 7' to a 7'-6" medium heavy with a fast action tip. You're guna want a rod with some backbone and durability. If it's your first time you will be back. Email me if you have any questions.
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Talk to Lance at Swampland thereCastaway blanks are very nice. I'm building a few right now.
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How would the casting be on a 6' mh when throwing a perch jig? I can't see a lot of distance there.
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