Am considering extending blank 12-18 in.Will build handle and seat on aluminum tube and add to blank.Seat will be where the overlap is on the blank.What kind of tube do I need,will what I find at Lowes be strong enough or do I need something more specific in the tubing?Will be used in rodholder ,bottom fishing, freshwater. Thanks
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Jay my brother and I were too impatient to wait for them to dry.We just used them green.lol Talk about moderate action.Mama used what we didnt break to stick beans in the garden.Ive always wondered how they got those brown stripes on the dried ones.
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Billy V. will bore the blocks he has to your sizes and length.
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How do you all add acrylics into a grip?Do you turn the discs to size and then add to handle and shape cork to that size or turn it all together?If you turn it all together how do you polish a 1/8 ring between the cork rings?If you turn and polish the acrylic first and then add, how do you stay off it while shaping the cork? Thanks
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Bill from what I gather,any bait or technique that is used that requires the tip down when fishing is not the best candidate for a spiral wrap.Im not an expert by any means though.
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Will the tape stick to anything else?If not you need more tape,if it will try cleaning the blank with isopropyl alcohol.
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Rodmaker 12-2 has a good turkshead article.
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Gabe I think what your asking is how big should ID of grip be compared to OD of blank.If so,as far as I know there is no written formula.It will stretch a lot.I try to get within probably .125 or so if that size is available when Im ordering.Some smaller or larger than that number will work.I try to get it so when it drops down the blank freely it stop just short of where it will start on the bla
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X2
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Jeff Mudhole sells just the wrapper.Its on sale too.Are you referring to the ''extra" dryer that is built into the wrapper?If so it is a standard part of all AT wrappers.Its just a motor that is mounted on the headstock area and is actually p-art of the standard wrapper.Not a separate piece as such.
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Thanks guys I got it now.What I didnt know was how much to add for my closing band.I could see from the chart numbers my center was gonna close at the same time as my outside if I didnt add to my initial layout and made the same number of passes.So I add whatever amount I want my closing band to be to the a-b measurement in the book.Correct? Thanks everyone for your time.
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Larry I just hate to bother him with minor stuff like this .Hes a very busy man.He will probably check in after while.
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Ive got Billys book,and am confused on a sparkler wrap spacing.The book has spacing charts but Im not sure I understand exactly.What I have decided is my spacing between c-d should be 1/2 of a-b ,before the width of the center band is added to the center pattern. Is that right?Maybe simpler what Im saying is,if I want my center closing band to be say for example 1mm, I make my a-b , 5mm, my c-d w
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Im with Eugene.I have 3or 4 of their blanks and have not registered a single one.If it breaks Im not gonna get upset and try to get a free one anyway.Like most people on this board,Im a hobby builder and build a few rods for myself ,and a few friends and give those away.If I did not build my own,odds are I would buy from one of the big box stores and not custom anyway.Same as building rods,I fish
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Hal,I work in the auto trade and from my experience,paint not adhering to a surface,is 90% of the time caused by some source of silicone contamination.By sanding your just rubbing in.Seeing as how you're refinishing I would clean it good with something like acetone or DNA.
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Tom I saw that one.I believe it is a work sharp 3000.Its about 200 and in my price range.I may try it.I know nothing about any of them and will probably try something in that caliber before going all out on a wet system. Thanks
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Im about to buy something to sharpen my turning tools with.What do yall recommend that won"t break the bank?
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What is best to cut thin sheet acrylic down to turn with? My hole saws are too coarse.Cut it but not very good.They try to melt it running slow as will go.
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1687 is a silver
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Jim I am not an expert but I do have the mans book.lol That 3/4 in. is probably too big .Should be depending on how many passes you make with the spider probably about 3 or 4 mm.Billys book has spacing charts that tell all that stuff.Hope this helps and I m sure the experts will respond.
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They will arrive at the same time ,but,the outside will have travelled faster to get there at the same time because it traveled a farther distance.I think that is what Bill is saying,and by traveling faster will have more tendency to sling the finish.
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Thanks Tom.
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Have looked on the site here and dont see my blank listed.I checked my first blank this afternoon and wonder if anybody, has the numbers for a Rainshadow ISB822.5 to be sure I did it right.I got an AA of 80 and ERN of 15.93 converted from 172cents deflected 27 1/3 in. supported 8" from butt end.Does that sound right? Thanks
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Rainshadow,castaway,Mudholes MHX line and their CRB house blanks are all quality inexpensive blanks.Swampland has Rainshadow and Castaway plus all the parts and Mudhole has all their stuff plus parts.Many of the s[ponsors to the left have a wide range of blanks also that Im not as familiar with as these.
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Barry there is absolutely nothing wrong with that.Thats how probably most people do it.A lot of people get good performance using a smaller guide and I am just curious how they do it and still stay in the ballpark of tried and proven ideas.If I dont try something different I will always stay the same.Im new at this and am definitely not set in my own way.
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Im confused on size and placement of butt guide on a spinning rod.822.5 rainshadow.I see a lot of guys using a 16 butt guide.If I use the 27x method that guide is pretty much predetermined if I stay in the recommended 18-22 in. from reel face.Looks to me like the only way to use a smaller ring ,which will be a shorter height ,is to move farther from reel face ,to stay in contact with my projected
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David as Ken said that top plate has got to be absolutley centered over the groove.It cant be a 1/16 out of line on either end or your center marks will be off.Done that.lol What I did to get it right was was got my plexiglass plate cut as close to width as possible for me,and took a piece of 1in. aluminum angle and held that against the backplate with the angle edge over the edge of the plate,li
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Bill that looks very well on them rods but is a little dull looking for this Tn. rod Im workin on.LOL just kidding.Actually the only thing I can think of that I know less about than building rods is football.
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I know this has been covered but I dont find the answer .Im using orange and white on gray blank and of course looks terrible .My test wraps on butt look like what I want if I use ncp white with 1255 madeira over with crystal clear water base cp and diamond II finish.This will be a spinning rod for freshwater with micro guides.My question will a short underwrap with the white end out enough for t
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Joe I dont know if they still do but Mudhole had some unsanded blanks they were selling for I believe $5 a piece.Understand they were not selling them as first line blanks to be built but for repairs and reamers and such.I bought 6 and ended up sanding and building 3 for my grand kids.They will get stepped on or jobbed in the ground and broke and they have caught a bunch of catfish in a friends p
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