The foam will do well to move, or flex a little - if it doesn't move; if it's entirely and completely rigid, the blank may break at that point. You can't take a flexing object and suddenly put something around it that completely inhibits that flex. If you do, the blank is likely to break.
Forum: rodboard

Actually, all of the epoxies will meld with the first application if you apply the second soon enough. Generally this is within a window of about 1 or 2 days. Beyond that, all will form a separate second coat and require the preparation of the first by light scuffing with Scotchbrite. ............
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Maybe, but I doubt it. Remember, you were tearing into the rod in order to remove the seat. Normal use of a rod does not subject the arbors to that same type of use. ..................
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6 feet might be enough, but a bit longer rod, while giving the fish a bit more leverage against you, will enable you to do several things better. You can cast a little further and hook setting becomes a little easier. I'd probably go with something 6'6" just to be a little more versatile. I would think you'd want a little longer handle in order to fight larger fish off your forearm rath
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What length rod are you looking to build? ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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You can use one brand over another - all the epoxies are at least similar in nature. If your epoxy turned white, my guess is that you have some crystallized resin, or nearly crystallized. This can happen when epoxy has been around awhile, particularly in cool or cold areas. You can restore it to like new condition by heating it in the microwave for a few seconds. .............
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JW designed his machine specifically for bamboo (it's from an older design) but it will work with any type rod. To see a photo check the back page of RodMaker Volume 11 #4. I spoke with JW not too long ago - he's currently sold out but plans to make another run of his machines by the Spring of '09. ...........
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"Quality is never an accident." I don't know if you penned that yourself or got it from somebody else, but that's one heck of a great statement for anybody that considers themselves a craftsman. Very well put. ............
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Lynn sent me one a couple weeks back. Pretty slick and much more simple and straightforward than any of the ones I've seen previously, including the ones we featured in the magazine a few years ago. ...............
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It takes but a few seconds to do it. Factory wrappers, while perhaps not always as neat as some custom builders are, tend to be very proficient timewise. ..................
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I suspect what Charlie is getting at is that when quality is the main concern you take your time - you don't rush. If you think the CP might be dry, but you're not absolutely sure, you give it another couple hours just to be safe. I can think of many things I've buggered up because I got in too much of a rush and just wanted to get the thing done. Had I waited another day, or sometimes just ano
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It's a simple single thread inlay. Not at all hard to do. We covered these in the Volume 6 #1 issue of RodMaker have another look at a similar wrap in the current issue out just now. Sort of hard to explain with text only - much easier with photos. Raymond Adams may have a free tutorial he could mail you. ............
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It appears that logging in did the trick for you. I suspected that was your problem. ............
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George, Actually the reason is very apparent - you weren't logged in. I saw you log in just after I advised you in the previous post, about 9:46AM. I suspected this was your problem. Once logged in the commands appear as stated. Any time you see the "login" command, you either aren't logged in or your browser is calling up an old page. We're still running 100% on the lo
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Bill, You probably already know this but for those who might not - if you're using the inexpensive box fan and Filtrete filter air cleaner, when the filter gets extremely dirty, put the filter on the other side of the fan and click the fan on high. The accumulated dust will be blown back out of the filter and it will be good for another duty period in the shop. It's best to do the filter
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If you can view the photos, you can post photos. The site can't let you do one without letting you do the other. In the area to the top right above the category box there is a line of commands, one of them says "upload photos." If your photos are in the right file format (jpeg) and not larger than about 1000 pixels square, they'll upload. If you do not see the line of commands a
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Check a good hobby shop for RC airplane wheels. Or, inline skate wheels on bearings. These will be much larger, starting at about 70mm and going up from there, but they work well. ............
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Flex Coat makes a good number of drying units that you may wish to take a look at. Also, do a search on the photo page for various types of multi-rod dryers that users have made. Graingers also has low RPM continuous duty motors, but they're relatively expensive. Very good, but expensive. ...........
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If they seem to mate snugly and there is no "tick" nor wobble, you might as well try it. ..............
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I doubt you'll find them at a local home supply store. Try McMaster-Carr. They have them. ................
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I realize that nobody bothers, but I'll add this one more time: ...........
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I need to take another look - it could be that the new Phorum software doesn't even offer a "quote feature" (I don't see it) and this template is still showing it. Just don't use it and you should be fine. If you need to quote something you can copy and paste it. Thanks. .......... On the earlier issue about the deleted posts, some of the content is getting downright silly. This
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A fly line will indeed groove and eventually cut all the way through SS316 stainless. But not in a season, it will take several, many actually. But it can and may eventually happen. Depends on how much you use the rod. ..........
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The other posts got deleted because some of the content being added was just plain silly. Problems with the quote feature do not seem to be happening to other than 2 or 3. We can't find anything wrong on this end, yet. So far every other problem that has been reported to me has ended up being on the users end - most haven't had to log in for months or years and many do not remember what th
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Bob, It's a problem on your end, not the forum. ............
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Something is wrong with both tip sections if they seat that far down over the butt. A couple to 3 inches maximum would be expected. ...........
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Seeker CLB series. 702 or 704. Turn the pull-downs into hook-ups. .............
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Never any need to post a large photo - the internet is a low resolution medium and few people have screens large enough to field huge photos. The page displays them all at the same size anyway. 1000 pixels square is more than enough for any computer screen. ............
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Jim, Everything is fine, but you need to log-in on the photo page. If you do not remember what password you chose there (hopefully it is the same one you chose for the forum here), have the photo page log-in page send you a new one. Please write it down and keep it in a safe place. That will take of it. ........... .............
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Many rod builders no longer bother to spine their rods (many never did), those that do either do it by hand or with a simple device such as you mention. It's as easy task to simply set the butt of the blank on a marble and then press straight down on the tip. The blank will flex and the outside of the curve is the effective spine. The magazine has had several article on making simple spine f
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