I had to reduce the size of the picture prior to uploading when I had the same problem.
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Has anyone used Floriani thread? I was looking to match some specific colors and felt I needed to actually see the selection instead of choosing with on-screen color charts. A local sewing shop carries Floriani and they had a beautiful selection of polyester thread. I picked the colors I needed and they were even nice enough to give me a remnant spool to do an epoxy test on ( I could return
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I have a 6.5' 2wt fly rod I am building. I want to do a small dec wrap on it but not sure what would look good on a rod that is only 5.5mm. I have Billy's book if any of those are appropriate. Any suggestions? Added - Also, it is a teal colored tiger eye. I want to use the colors of a brook trout on it. Any recommendations on thread selection would help. I only have access to color charts online
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Just finished stripping the guides off a friend's flyrod. He damaged a couple of guides and I figured I would re-do them all since the epoxy was quite yellowed. I got them all off by cutting the epoxy above the guide foot and getting hold of a thread to unravel the whole wrap. The remaining epoxy residue is near impossible to get off the blank. I about wore both thumbnails down to bloody nubs try
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What is the recommended grit size to sand epoxy before a final coat?
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Furthering the discussion of a related thread. Can I do a decent job of sanding uneven epoxy with just a manual wrapper? It seems like it would be too difficult but I have some spots I would like to go back and fix if I can figure out a way to do it. What grit is best for this work?
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Thanks Billy. Actually glad you confirmed that for me because that is what I was going to do based on my previous attempts. We'll see how she goes.
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That's the problem. There is no reference for which spacing to use from the charts at back of the book.
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For my next build I want to try the pinwheel pattern from Billy's book (p.56) but I don't know what the spacing should be. The blank diameter will be about 9.5mm at center of pattern. I am going to switch colors back and forth as Billy says to try. So here are my questions? Is 7 passes for the center too many for this size blank? How many passes should be taken for the step 1 box out? How bi
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I laid down the base with silver and black only, burnished in several directions and first coat of epoxy is on now. Now I'm thinking about the topwrap. I don't have larger sized thread (only size A). Would some monofilament be an option? I have some 10lb Trilene or 3-7x tippet. Does it look better with a bit more separation than a single size A sacrificial?
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How would it look if I used all 3 colors (black, blue and silver in the base wrap and then just the blue on the top wrap? Does this intensify or diminish the effect?
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I'm looking at my first rod I made several months ago. It doesn't have much flair so I thought I would add a tiger wrap to dress it up. I've never done one, heck, I've never seen one other than on the web so I'm not sure what type of sequence I should use.The guides are wrapped with Prowrap royal blue NCP with black and metallic silver trim so I'll use those colors for the tiger. Not sure what wo
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Chad - I filled the scratches with a marker for visibility. I thought it was brilliant at the time but now don't really think it was necessary. It was the scratching of the blank that made me uncomfortable. Steve - Regarding packing the wrap... I get the impression that you get your layout threads near where they need to be but don't worry about exact placement until you are packing. If correc
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I've done 2 buttwraps now, a Spider and St Johns Cross. I was quite pleased with how they turned out but now that I've done them I see where some of the challenges lie in making them better. Mainly in getting a clean close for the pattern. I ended up closing both with black and had some overlapped threads. I think I need to do a better job on my layout, specifically the marking for my measuremen
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Where can one find waterslide paper?
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Well, I learned a new trick today. I was able to remove the threadmarks by applying low heat through the use of a candle warmer. Set it on a stack of books so it was about 1" below the blank and let it sit for about an hour and the marks were 98% gone. I rubbed out any remaining marks. I turned the blank 180 and did the other side the same. Before photo After photo
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I know that historically epoxy resins were cheaper than urethanes. I believe that is still the case. I wonder if putting a some low heat will help that area even out. I'm going to try it.
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The blank is a no-name import. Are blanks normally finished with an epoxy or a urethane coating?
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No CP or epoxy was applied to this blank. That is just the raw blank as I received it and wrapped it as-is except for a quick wipedown with denatured alcohol.
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I completed my next butt wrap and found threadmarks in the rod finish after I did the cutoff. What can I do to get rid of them? I have some Permagloss. Would this be a good solution to try? Do I need to scuff w/scotchbrite pad or sand smooth the marks? Also, is this a sign that I am wrapping too tight? Is it a soft rod finish?
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Yup, it was the file size. Thank you, gentlemen. Now I can post my problem.
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I'll go try it again.
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I tried uploading a photo several times today. The message says upload was successful but I can't find the photo. I know I'm missing something because I didn't have any problem the first time I did it. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
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Thanks for the comeback guys. And thanks, Tom, for pointing out that tutorial. I had done a forum search but forgot the library. I'll strip them tomorrow. I have an alcohol torch bottle I'll use to gently heat things up. Like was said, the blank is scrap but I want to practice getting them off cleanly.
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What is the easiest method to remove snake guides from a fly rod? I broke the tip section which is being replaced but I need the guides for the repair. I removed one of the four already by cutting the epoxy with a razor blade. It wasn't easy and I just feel there is an easier way. Would applying heat help at all?
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I was thinking the same thing, Bill.I looked at it pretty close with a magnifier and don't see anyplace that I got into the fibers. I don't have another blank to do practice wraps so it would be good for that. On the other hand its a decent stick. If I can save it, I'll just use it for personal use. Fortunately, I don't catch big fish.
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I scuffed it with a fine flat file. The scuff marks aren't very deep but they are also not evenly distributed.
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I recently started on 2 fly blanks at the same time. I prepped the seats and grips for gluing. Scuffed the finish on rod #1 and then #2. I mixed my glue and applied it to rod #1 and fit the seat and grip. I applied the glue to rod # 2 but the seat wouldn't fit onto the blank. What the heck was going on??? OH NO, I scuffed the wrong end of the blank!!! I could not believe what I had just done. I
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Billy Vivona Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > you have to be very careful > who you take advice from Roger that. Thanks, Billy
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Bill - I thought about that but the rod may go to a friend so I don't know what reel it will end up with. I did the boiling water method and it did the trick. It took about 20 minutes. Unfortunately I ended up with some minor scratches to the edge of the butt cap so I will have to replace it (damaged by pliers even though I tried to protect the finish with a cloth). I too assumed all seats
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