Thaks Walt. I have the Grizzly bit on order.
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I need a seat insert mortised for the Struble hardware I bought. I have a friend that has a router table and the skill to do it for me but he doesn't have the fingernail bit. Does anyone have a recommendation on the right bit to use for this (size and make)?
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Looks to me like they wrapped the red/black/yellow diamond and then closed it with white as the background. Using standard thread and no CP allows the white to become slightly transparent allowing the underwrapped bands to show through as a lighter shade.
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Trying to understand how to read the fly real seat designations. Is there any type of key or rule of thumb to the meaning of the part numbers? Also, looking specifically for a downlocking black skeleton for a 4wt if anyone has a recommendation.
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Can you elaborate, Tom? What enhancements can I expect if I were to decide to put ceramics on this 4 wt?
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I was talking to a friend who's opinion I value and trust (he runs a very successful flyshop) and he told me something that got me thinking. He had used a friends rod that had been built with single foot ceramic guides though it was only a 3 wt. (I think it was a Winston). He said he could cast it further than the factory version because of the ceramic guides. I don't know that I've ever seen any
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It usually means the file is too large and need to be re-sized.
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Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.
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I ran into similar problems when purchasing no-name blanks from a certain on-line @#$%& site. I won't be making that mistake again. I now buy only from companies willing to put their name on the product.
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Snake Brand, check. Who makes in USA a guide I can use for the stripper in sz 10.
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Are there any fly guides made in the USA?
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Thanks Tom. First CP was done yesterday, second this morning so it was good and dry, had no problems at all.
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Put 2nd coat of CP on this morning at 10:00am. House is about 72F and 50% humidity. Can I apply epoxy to wraps tonight or better off waiting for tomorrow?
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I've hired and worked with a few guides over the years. I have a method which serves me well. I have a figure in mind at the start of the day (usually $50) that I plan to tip at the end of the day. If things go well on all fronts that's what I give. I deduct from that number throughout the day for lousy service/performance. And its rarely about the quantity or quality of the fish caught. Demerits
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On guide wraps where do you prefer to leave your tag ends left from pull throughs (whip finish)? I have started leaving them at the 90 degree position (0 degrees being top, center). Leaving them at 90 deg. puts them on the side away from the user if held in the right hand. I've considered moving them to the guide foot to try and hide them better but am concerned about them staying secure. What ar
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Water break- free is a test commonly performed in the coating industry. It is used to determine if a surface is free of organic contaminants. Cleaning systems are designed to remove organic and inorganic soils prior to coating. The surface is wiped with a clean, white, lint-free cloth to check for inorganics and distilled water is sprayed onto a surface to check for organics. If they are present
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Coincidence? No... everyone knows you catch more fish a custom rod. Get the word out there.
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This is one I did with blue and metallic silver under with royal blue over on a 4wt MHX blank.
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Thanks guys. I'll give MH a call to see what they can do.
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Does anyone know where I could have a set of initials engraved into a buttcap?
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Very nice step by step, thanks for sharing. A bit better than the original and. I pick up a little more from each one. I was surprised to learn how much you actually move the threads when packing. I learned on my last wrap that I was previously wrapping far too tight and backed off on the tension. I could move the threads quite a bit in groups and made everything workout much nicer.
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I'm guessing you mean this step by step. I have studied it and it helped me a lot but there are things I see that make me ask even more questions.
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Is there an instructional video that shows the process of completing a closed wrap from beginning to end. I would like to know the key steps or what to watch for that allow for a clean close.
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Interesting thread considering I just finished one an hour ago. The rose closed OK but got a bit crowded on the background (it always does). Then almost lost it all on the tie-off.
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Do a google search on 'Logo Design'. There are sites where you can post a price your willing to pay and graphic artists make submissions to you. You select the one you want and then pay the artist the agreed price. CrowdSpring is one that comes to mind but there are others.
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Well, unless I hear differently i am going to strecth my 25mm to 30mm. That is a 20% elongation. We'll see if that is enough.
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I am doing the Rose pattern from Billy's book and it calls for elongating the pattern. The butt wraps I have done to date have been straight squares so I don't have experience to draw on. My blank is 25mm diameter at the center of the wrap and I plan to do 6 passes. How much should I elongate this measurement to get a good pattern?
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I did some similar testing looking for a good candy apple effect. I did silver, gold and holo mylar film as a base (from my fly tying kit). Silver looked best under all colors tested (blues, greens and orange). Holo was similar but the holo effect was largely lost. Gold looked OK but didn't have the brilliance of the silver. I bought a roll of 1/2" silver mylar film with thin adhesive on the
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Thanks for a great write up. How do you deal with overspray? I build in my dining room. Don't think the boss will appreciate me putting a dusting on her heirlooms.
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Does that mean the craft acrylic won't work?
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