Great show! Thanks, Tom and others that put so much into them to make them the success they are. Came away with lots of information and ideas that I will be trying out over the next few builds.
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I learned so much at my frist trip last year. I went as someone who had been thinking of getting into rod building and just wanted to check it out and see if it was something I REALLY wanted to do. After sitting through a couple of seminars and talking with folks, wound up buying my first blank and reel seat. Have now built a couple dozen since leaving the expo. Paul Bishop, Tom nailed it.
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I started off using Devcon and have not had any problems. However, have been using U40 Rodbond the last several rods and don't plan on using anything else - except maybe the 10min version when this batch is gone. What I like about the rodbond is that it stays in place and is super easy to clean up. Use it for reel seats and grips.
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I built a St. Croix SCIV that had a deep blue blank. Used Gudebrod Blue Dunn thread with gold metallic trim bands. Really liked the way it turned out and the guy I built it for loved the look.
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2x on the Mudhole aluminum winding checks. Have used a bunch and they are nice.
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I use single foot fly guides from the choker to the tip on almost all BCs except for heavy power flippin/pitchin rods. Most are couple of 2x foot guides for butt/stripper, couple of bumpers then single foot all the way out. All single foot guides are Forhan loop wrapped. I use the single foot guides to help reduce weight which helps with sensitivity and cut down on the"softening" of
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Tom, did you say reduced? hmmmmmm.
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Awesome. That is the next tool I want to add in the shop. I will be there.
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I measure grip placement for surf rods by using the distance from the center of the chest to the wrist. With the arms straight out at the side - like being measured for clothes - I mesaure in a straight line from the center of the chest to wrist. For spinning rods I then subtract four inches and that is where the top of the reel seat goes; BC rods, the reel seat top is at the measurement. Hav
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Here's a pic of a fly rod I built using the Gudebord Orange - don't remember the #. Used one coat of NCP and packed tightly. The Batson blank is not as "deep" blue as those Mudhole blue blanks but close.
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I'm in Chapel Hill. I would make it (NC Rod builders gathering) too if possible. Definitely coming to the expo.
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Excellent write ups. I use braid for similar applications (mono vs. braid). Braid is used for throwing single hook lures into junk - stickups, pilings, millfoil, weeds, etc. (and saltwater with a leader). Mono is used for non-junk single and treble hook lure applications with medium to stained water as a general rule. Just have to careful with braid. It so much thinner than mono that i
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I have built on them and like others have said are very good. Plan on using again. However, check out Swampland's clearance blanks. Same price range but I would rate them just slightly better. May have what you are looking for. Eddie
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I have used several - red splash and blue splash. Built for myself and others with no complaints, as a matter of fact the folks I built them for thought it was worth the extra $$$ to get that unique and different look. The finish seems very durable and looks good. Eddie
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Hey, not sure about how it would look with the para cord handle (neat idea) but for large diameter surf rod butts I use chair leg feet covers - the large rubber feet that slide over the legs to protect flooring. Can be found at most big box hardware stores. Can get a couple for a few dollars. Tough, durable, thick and give the rod a unique and different look. One build, all I had was a large
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One thing I will add, goes along with what George said, and that is some blanks do not require a ferrule wrap so it is totally your choice. But, some blank warranties are voided if the ferrule splits and it was not wrapped by the builder. So, best to check with your manufacturer/vendor if you decide *NOT* to add a wrap. Me, I always put one one - 1 1/2x the dia - they just look better, IMHO, a
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I'm with Kevin, no underwarp needed for 10-20 lb weight rod. The underwrap is to protect the blank from the guide feet "digging in" or scratching under heavy loads & flexi. The only time I use underwraps for guides is on surf and boat rods where there will be a lot of stress on the blank from casting load, or fish fighting load.
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I make my own. I use a good quality fleece material from a local fabric shop and make it so that it can be used with the reel on the rod. I sew in shoe strings for tie-ups and everyone seems to like them. They are nothing fancy, but like Raymod said, sure most just toss them after a few uses. Probably have a couple of dollars in each one. Eddie
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Just curious if anyone uses any kind of air cleaner or purifier? I try to keep my winding and finish area clean but just seems like of late have a lot of dust flying around and do not want to get into the finish. Have been thinking about getting an air purifier. Was curious if anyone uses these or how you handle this situation. Thanks, Eddie
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Also, the BLAG is a fly guide as opposed to the BLNAG double foot casting guide.
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Got on it last night and an hour later was still reading articles. Great site! Thanks for your work on this. Lokve the layout. Eddie
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Thanks, Tom. I will bring them and if can get in will be fine. If can't and doesn't work that will be OK as well.
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Tom, How tall are these cases? I have a couple of surf rods that would not mind having diplayed - 11' and 10'. They are not anything fancy like I am sure some will have but are functional and built to catch fish. Also, assume that we do not want the reels and line on them? Have reels on them now - actually ready to take to the surf right now - but can pull off very easily. Just let me know.
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Thanks all for the feedback. Roger, really apprecaite the in-depth explanation. That sounds like a great solution. I have been doing the "by eye globs" and seems to be working well for me. Good to hear its designed for a 60/40 mix worst case. I always keep my left over mix around to check the hardness and it has been hardening up good for me. I also test glue ups and everyt
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How do you guys measure out rod bond? Have just recently started using it and am loving, but am struggling with measuring out the qty. So far, it's working for me, but would like to be a little more scientific with my amount than just a "glob" by eye. Tries measuring spoons last night and that was a mess. Was just curious how others measure this (or similar product) out for mixing.
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I was looking to provide socks for all my rods that I built, but, couldn't find what I wanted. Either had logos I didn't want, wrong material, or too expensive. So, drug out the Mother-in-laws old sewing machine, asked my sister-in-law how to use and now make my own. I can buy 6 sq yds of the heavy fleece material - sweatshirt quality - for $15 and make over a dozen socks to precisely fit my ro
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I agree with Eddie. I like 7 wts for bass flys - 7WF as well. To me, just have more options for bugs, poppers and clouser with a heavier rod. Plus, you can throw smaller flys with a heavier rod, but, can't throw bigger flys with a lighter rod. I throw 4/5 wts for perch and bluegill - now that's fun! For bass, IMHO, go with a 7 wt, 9' blank. I have used the following and really like: 2x
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Hey Scott - and others who have worked on this in this past - great idea and would be very helpful for newbs like myself. I would add the following to the list: Lamiglas CCB854MF=Cranks and Rattle traps Love this blank. Eddie
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I will throw out another option. I love the Lamiglas CCB845MF. Great blank. Strong backbone and soft/fast tip. Eddie
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Thanks, Tom. Will give it a try. Thuoght I might start with 9 or 10 and test until I find the sweet spot. Thanks, Eddie
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