If you have found some inkjet inks that are fade resistant, I'd like to know what they are. I used to make a lot of inkjet decals, but lately have not been able to trust them for fade resistance. Canon ink. Papillio white vinyl is very good media.
Forum: rodboard

If you have found some inkjet inks that are fade resistant, I'd like to know what they are. I used to make a lot of inkjet decals, but lately have not been able to trust them for fade resistance. Canon ink. Papillio white vinyl is very good media.
Forum: rodboard

Randy, it is Saturday, but the Saturday is April 8.
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I really doubt if the size differences being discussed would be significant with respect to weight. One thing I try to do, regardless of guide design or size, is to keep the knot out of the rod guides altogether. No need for it to be in there, and everything that can happen is bad.
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The ONLY caveat regarding the KLH guides is they are tall, so if you plan on using a rod tube, or rod tubes in your boat, check them out for fit. I think TFO has a great triangular rod tube that will hold them (probably only multi piece rods). It's probably about time for Fuji to do a couple folding KLH guides, don't you think, Jim? :-)
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First, determine what line type and test you'll use and whether knots have to go through them. Then select the lightest you can afford for max sensitivity. A good source of info that gives a good understanding of how the line affects your selection go to the Fuji catalog on the Anglers Resource site by clicking on it in the left column. Read the "theory" articles in the left colu
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I have checked every fly blank I've encountered over the last few years and every one has CCS values at the upper limit of what you would expect for their weight class. None was at the weight class center. If you want a great 8 wt, do the Eternity 8 wt. I really like the Rio bonefish shooter line on my 8, which measures very close to that Eternity. It loads very well with short line out, but
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Somehow we lost the discussion of the Eternity. One thing not mentioned was the nano feature of the Eternity II blanks. If it does as it's supposed to, and toughens the blank, at the same action and power it has an advantage, doesn't it?
Forum: rodboard

If you are not experienced I don't think you stand much of a chance on improving on a production built rod. These rods are usually built fairly well by competent people, and your first custom rod will possibly have componentry that won't work out the way you thought and the workmanship may be suspect. I think Roger has it right in his first comment.
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Best bet for a new builder would be to buy a kit, and I recommend longer than 5' 6" for longer casts and better hook sets. My experiences with the shorter ulta-lights were a series of frustrations with lost fish. My best experience with an ultralight is the 7 1/2 foot 2 wt fly blank build into a spin rod. But you cannot find that kind of kit. 6' 6" Better to start with
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For simple dots Decal Connection offers them . They do have to be overcoated and they transfer better on some surfaces than others.
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What I was talking about was at -40 F, which is, I believe, way below what any (sane) person would be subjecting a rod to. I was really just thinking about the blanks. Theoretically, considering the guides, I expect the trouble will come from the different coefficients of thermal expansion/contraction between the ceramic and the metal. That may be what Matthew experienced. I'll keep my fishi
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By flexibility, I expect you mean the physical characteristics of power and action + durability/fragility. Right? Within the "normal" range of temps, most likely not. Keep in mind there are graphite ice rods that are used down to about zero, and they seem to work fine. I would think by about - 40 F you would want to be very careful-not sure there is a lot of data for that extreme.
Forum: rodboard

I think we tend to overthink everything. I have some old cone of flight rods, early micro rods set up who knows how, and my latest set up with all the newest methods, and you know what? They all catch fish. And some surprise me with their casting distance.
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Lighten up, everything is cool. Someone will be offended by something, no matter what you do. So you've done all that any rational person could expect, so let it go and come on back.
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Ever notice that the baitcasting system with braid performs differently on water than when dry?
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I use Tom's method and it works pretty well. You still have to be careful, but it can pretty easily be done. I do mine before gluing into the seat so that if there is a problem, it's easy to just scrap that arbor and start over. Yes, a real drill bit. You can actually "screw" one into an arbor and turn it's diameter down, if needed, on a drill press with sandpaper. Material los
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To add a photo, and please do: Take a picture with a digital camera. Transfer it to your computer. Click on the photos button at the top of the forum page. Log in with your usual creds. Click on upload photos. It will ask you select the photo file, navigate your computer to find and select it. Hit the button to upload. When you see it on the forum photos page, select the w
Forum: rodboard

If it works for you, that's the way to do it. I guess my hand never grips the rod in that area. I agree that if you're going to grip it, bigger is better.
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I have no experience, but if you want dust to match a color, use dust from that material. Turn a piece of it just to get the dust. If you have a clear glue it might take on the color of the dust. But I really think you're screwed and would be better served by just doing it over. You know already, I presume, if done right, the gap is just about invisible.
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If you are going to be doing light finesse, like leeches on a jig, then a really comfortable, sensitive , setup is to upock the seat so that you can build an epoxy coated foam ramp off the front of the reel seat hood. Make it about 1/16 inch smaller in diameter than the hood so that you can easily place epoxy up against the shoulder provided by the front face of the seat hood, use 3 or 4 coats o
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The 7 ' 2 " Immortal walleye blank is a nice blank, very affordable now. Take some 4 " swim baits and 1'4 oz bullet jigs with you and snap them off the bottom. You may be very surprised how effective that aggressive technique is on walleyes. I'm not sure what function a "rear grip" has on a split grip spin rod.
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Right on, Roger.
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Wouldn't be hard to test it. Deflect it, modify it, deflect it again.
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I always count on using two coats, whether with or without CP. I use lite Flex Coat and apply the first coat in a thin coat. Then I repair any defects, note where it is too thin, and do the second coat, also thin. And that usually does it just fine. I do it this way to get good coverage without having the "football" shaped wraps
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Wright has it right. (second paragraph - I would edit it to read "From a purely practical perspective. . .")
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Photo link below to a reversed Aero.
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Nice job, Mudhole!
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Nice job, Mudhole!
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Reversed aeros work great for this kind of build. With the big ramp going off the front instead of threads, it is very comfortable. If you want to use the Microwaves because you already have them, do it; it will work fine. I would use a premium grade tiptop as that is where any grooving will start.
Forum: rodboard