As Norman says, + I think that the 4 series Rodgeeks are equivalent to St Croix SCIV, which would presumably make them a little better than the SCIII. I agree that all the blanks mentioned are very high quality blanks; I've used them all. I think you have to determine where your priorities are relative to color, gloss vs matte, cost, and match to what you are trying to get functionally (power/a
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Solid titanium means solid titanium alloy. Pure titanium will not work. Different vendors have different alloys, but both the Fujis and the Alps are very high quality, finely finished guides. I have used both. Neither is coated. All titanium alloy guides are very corrosion resistant and ideal for saltwater rods. The advantage in solid titanium alloy vs coated is that the titaniums will be l
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Since I cannot rotate a full blank, I have done it with the sponge, worked fast up down and around the blank, and had good results. After applying I leaned the blank in an almost vertical position. This stuff is dry sooner than you might think.
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You don't need to buy three to get one, just go with the 13. Always, with hard checks, go big. Worst case scenario is you might have to put a wrap under it, which isn't all bad anyway.
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All good advice, but if you have one that is eccentric and you want to salvage it, it's worth a try to ream it larger to achieve concentricity, then build the blank up with masking tape in enough places, depending on the length of the grip, to keep it very solid when done. Winding checks can hide the problem. This is one of the many processes in building that require practice practice practice.
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Everyone will have nubs sooner or later. Re the nail knot, if you are NOT going to use CP, then a good way to fasten the nail knot down is to put just a tad, just a minimal drop of UV curing epoxy (same process as recommended with CP) onto the place where the two threads are together. Zap it with the UV light, then trim. Be sure to pack them before you finish. The advantage of this over
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If you're taking it right down to the blank, removing and replacing guides, then before you wrap the guides use Lumiseal or Permagloss instead of epoxy. I'm really surprised there are not more people here cautioning you about using epoxy to finish a blank. It could be that glass doesn't need anything on it. Anyone know? But if you want it to be glossy, then a finish is certainly required,
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If you're taking it right down to the blank, removing and replacing guides, then before you wrap the guides use Lumiseal or Permagloss instead of epoxy. I'm really surprised there are not more people here cautioning you about using epoxy to finish a blank. It could be that glass doesn't need anything on it. Anyone know? But if you want it to be glossy, then a finish is certainly required,
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Agree with above. Pay attention to Norman's third point. I will also add that the KL-H guides are pretty high, and if you plan on using rod tubes, be sure your build will fit into them. I always use the locking loops on the reduction guides, thinking they will anchor the tall guides better. Never had a problem.
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I have done this with epoxy and had a mess. It's too thick, doesn't give a smooth finish. I've also done it by smoothing as much as possible the old finish and replacing it with a coat of Permagloss. In my opinion the latter is superior to the former.
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This situation, having a bunch of unknown blanks, is a compelling reason for having one's own CCS rig.
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Wax toilet seals are a good lube for preventing the bonding of epoxy to the mandrels. But careful application of the epoxy can keep almost all or all of it out of the threads of threaded rod. If you drill out the rings to better match the OD of the blank, like Roger does, it is harder to keep the glue out of the threads. But less reaming. A tradeoff. I drill my rings to 5/16 ID and use 5/1
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Somehow asking for cheap guides on a custom rod just doesn't seem to fit.
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If you have a drill press this works very well on cork and EVA: Use 5/16 threaded rod with nuts and washers as a mandrel to hold your glued together components. The rings are easily drilled to 5/16 on the drill press before assembling and gluing on the mandrel. You can have multiple components on a single mandrel about 1 foot long. Be careful not to get the parts epoxied to the threaded rod
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I'll stick with Tom's recommendation. Since I have I have had no reel seat security problems. It is common sense that if you prep 0 % of the area, it is in doubt. If you prep 100% of the area, it's pretty well as good as you can do. Anything in between is in between.
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I agree with Roger's post. I will add that if you want to use Fuji's K series guides, they have a suggested sequence of reduction guides in their catalog, and they really do work well. Last rod I built I used their recommendations and right out of the box it cast beautifully. Keep in mind that some of the taller reduction guides will not fit into rod tubes in boats. I am confident that by
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There is no reason micros will not work on redfish/snook rods, although I would choose the heavy duty ones with the larger foot. Fuji and Amtak offer them, maybe others.. Since redfish/snook fishing is unlikely to encounter icing, the most important consideration will be knot passage if you will be using line to line knots. I don't think one of the advantages of micros, sensitivity, is a facto
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I have no personal experience, but I see no reason why REC snakes would not work for the running guides, a two footed ceramic ring 1st and second guide. the only negative I've ever heard about REC is noise. I think they are plenty strong. I would recommend you not put a hook keeper on it, instead use the frame of the first guide, which will keep the area in front of the grip clean and snag fre
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Wow! I went to your site, and you really have some nice stuff! I wish I had a lathe.
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Fuji lists dimensions of the ACS on the Anglers Resource web site on the left. Compare those with your blank dimensions and order accordingly.
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I have used pro wrap extensively, also Fuji, and they are both fine quality threads. There are others that are too, according to those who use them. You'll hear from them soon. My only complaint in Pro Wrap is that their original metallics tend to jump off the spool, hard to manage. They have come out with premium metallics, but most of the colors don't appeal to me. The original metallics
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If you use rubber plugs be sure to use alcohol on them, then abrasive scrubbing to the areas that must take adhesive. This is to remove any residual mold release agents from the rubber.
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They look very good, functional, and smooth to line that might go across them. Nice work.
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They look very good, functional, and smooth to line that might go across them. Nice work.
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Norman, thanks, will keep that Mudhole product in mind. It may do just fine. Would really like to see it.
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The thread I have is 9002 HT metallic Electra Silver.A size.
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I find it highly doubtful that THESE CFX grips weigh more than cork. Anyone making a decision based on weight should do some experiments and come to their own conclusion. Do Forecasts have a metal trim ring on them? Maybe that could explain a plus over cork?
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What makes you think it is heat shrunk? Carbon fiber cloth doesn't shrink, and I'm sure the process is gluing the cloth to the core, with the epoxy penetrating and sealing the cloth. The result should be one of the most durable types of grips available, but they are so new (CFX) that there most likely is no long term customer experience. I have no hesitation to using these grips, and putting o
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A way to get the same effect as a thread wrap without any ridges from the thread is to wrap the area with tightly pulled/stretched electrical tape OVER AN INSULATING SHEET OF THIN PAPER. If you have minor lifting after epoxy you usually can sand that off and apply another coat. The decal won't come off and the edge will be hidden. If the decal is printed on white media, if you sand through
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Tru oil makes the cork more contrasty looking too. It also gives it a finish that feels harder than cork. But in reality , cork isn't as soft as most people think.
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