I would order a 5.5 mm tube size, or 2.2 if that is the listing. If too tight you can loosen it a bit by inserting a tapered bodkin into it. But, a 2.4 will not be grossly large. So if concerned about a 2.2, order the 2.4. Based on my experience, manufacturers are very careful about tiptop bore dimensions and blank tip diameters, and if the blank says 5.5, a 5.5 tube will work.
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I've never had one fail, and they perform great. Go to the Fuji catalog at Anglers Resource link in the left margin and find the section on the recommended groups for KLH. They may not fit into some boat rod tubes or travel tubes, so if that is important, check it out in advance.
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Prokote is no different in this regard than any other wrap epoxy. In addition to the posted advice, I would add that you want to be sure you have no contaminants on the surface, don't add any heat after applying the epoxy, use longitudinal strokes to apply the epoxy to minimize any lumps due to uneven application. If your decorative wraps are done with thread designed for embroidery it may have
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The biggest differences between the glass and graphite in the actions you mention are that the glass will most likely be heavier and recovery will be slower. Both should work fine. At least that is my opinion.
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I think the problem with EVA is that it is so soft that the surface will cave in. What you want to do will work fine with burl cork as the substrate, although it will be heavier than EVA and regular cork. I believe even regular, high quality, filled cork will be strong enough for what you want to do. I assume you top the marbling with wrap epoxy, right? I've had wrap epoxy on a regular cork
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Go to the video near the bottom, the one on "KR Concept from Anglers Resource", and go to the 5:00 minute part of the video where the casting setup is discussed. Bottom line for me is to locate an RV reverse guide at about 20 inches from the reel, then a couple KB's (big foot), then KT's to the end. KB's and KT's are all the same size, and spaced per a stress test. Move the RV u
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I just don't see spending many hours on a rod then taking a chance on some unknown finish for the wraps. Could end up doing the whole thing over.
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Drill out the butt end to a diameter well less than the blank ID, like about 1/8 inch, knot the ends of a loop of 50 pound test flourocarbon, slide the ends into the butt a ways, with a good solid plug of paste epoxy. If done right it would hardly be noticeable without a leash, but a leash with a light snap could attach to it when fishing from a kayak.
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For a med light blank you most likely plan to use fairly light line, like mono 8 or less, braid 15 or less, and then you need that first guide to be no bigger than a 20. Maybe a 16 if a higher model Y. Then the others go down from there. I suggest you look at the Fuji groups on the Anglers Resource site, catalog button, to see what Fuji recommends, even it you don't plan to use Fuji. You will
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Have you tried asking Rodgeeks customer service?
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Thanks for the explanation.
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It is my opinion based on removing a good number of wraps that CP does result in wraps that come off significantly easier than those wrapped without CP - ALL WRAPS WITH REGULAR NYLON THREAD. I have heard otherwise, but I don't believe it. If penetration of the thread by epoxy is prevented it is logical to conclude that the total structure of the "plywood" system will be at least somew
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I think there is a lot of over-thinking going on here. Just keep the wrap an eighth of an inch away from the end of the blank and finish it. There is no rational reason to wrap it as close to the end as possible. You can stop the wrap even farther away from the joint if you don't want to put an alignment dot on the wrap, but on the blank itself. (some dots don't transfer to wraps but do to t
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I must be missing something. I don't see why higher weight rods need 20 mm strippers and 8 mm running guides when the line isn't all that much bigger than a lighter wt line. If the objective is to "keep the line straight" it would lead to smaller guides, not bigger guides.
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One way to gain understanding of how tough HIGH QUALITY single foot wire guides properly wrapped and epoxied are is to put one onto a test piece blank, with the wrap of your choice and properly coated, then try to move it. I think you will be surprised at how tough it is to bend them or to move them. Plenty of strength for your application. While you're at it, do one with CP and one without.
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If you want a fast action rod look at Rainshadow Eternity II. Highly respsected, high tech with nano fibers, light, sensitive, tough, and $167 + shipping.
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Wow! good news, we'll get it soon. Some of our sources will jump on it.
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Alan, this rod has the area between the butt knob and the rear ramp covered with an inkjet decal on white Papillio vinyl media and the ramps are inkjet decals on Papillio transparent peel and stick media.
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I was checking my 8 wt 9 foot Quickline rod today, a 3 year old rod with its single foot wire guides, and noticed that the guides were still so solidly on the rod that I couldn't budge them. No locking wraps. If single foot guides are getting moved on rods the rods have experienced one heck of a blow. If I have to give up anything to get more toughness, like from snakes, I won't do it.
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I agree with those who doubt that time is the issue. I think it may be simply applying too much on that second coat. I almost never get the first coat to cover well enough. There is always a nubbin or two or some other little thing, but the second coat always looks great. I never have a problem with adhesion or separation or anything like that no matter how long between coats (but I never p
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I would also pick the Immortal. No problems with Avid, have made a couple for grandkids, nice rods, but I think the Immortal is a higher grade blank, I love the TiChrome finish. I've made and used an Immortal walleye blank, and since it is very similar to the old RX 8's with which I have a lot of experience, I have a lot of confidence in it. I'm talking generalities of the two, not specifics f
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Goo Gone. Then make sure all residue from that is gone. Not sure what it might do. I think alcohol followed by water might be right.
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In my experience, Permagloss is much more likely to attack stuff like decals, even when they are covered with CP. If doing anything other than covering thread, a test is a good idea.
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How about providing a copy of the "Eliminate Broken Rods" article from the library with every rod. Any intellectual property problems with doing that?
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You can document your first build with good pics and rewrap it into a better rod. Best of both worlds? To me, how a rod I'm using looks is important, and for me, using a rod I was not proud of would be a constant reminder that I really don't like the job I did on that rod.
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According to both Amtak and Fuji the first guide (possibly second also) on the casting rod can make a significant difference in casting performance because there are in fact significant "disturbances" in the line in that area of the rod on casting outfits. When micros were just coming into popularity some wrapped the same size all the way to the tip. A member of this forum recommend
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Good point, Spencer
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I would appreciate comments from the fly experts as to whether using snakes or single foot wire guides changes the size recommendations. I see on a couple charts sizes 3 and 4 for 8 wts.
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Mudhole has vinyl checks the size you need, you need three for a split grip. I suggest size 16 seat for this light rod (17 is ergonomically more correct for most hand sizes, but for this light duty rod I think 16 will feel better, lighter, more delicate, in keeping with a short, ultra light rod. Use the smallest cork you can find. Acutally, all you need is a butt knob and a couple small ramps
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When I use the black vinyl checks, and I like them for the reasons above + they look simple and handsome, I put a filet of epoxy right over the OD of the check, encapsulating it. It looks good and will never deteriorate or move.
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